The engine will not crank or start?

Yep, that is no fun let's get it running for you. can I ask if you tried to crank the engine over in neutral? Also, please check fuse # F2-113 and fuse # f2-31 in the fuse panel under the dash on the left side.

This guide can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

If the fuses are okay let's swap out the starter control relay which is in the fuse panel under the dash on the left side as well.

Here is a guide that can help, and I have included the starter wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Check out the images (below). Please upload pictures or videos of the problem so we can see what's going on.

So, I have put new everything you can think of I do mean everything. I had a mobile Mechanic come today and finally gave up. I paid him $100.00 for his time but I’m still lost. The only thing the scanner said was key fob and it wouldn’t allow him to erase old codes. He said I might need an electrical specialist in which I can’t afford.

I’m considering going to the junk yard and buying a new fuse panel but it’s expensive. It seems like fuses 30 and 31 have fused together inside. Not the fuses but the board. Also, number 37 only lights up on one side. I don't know but I have test and retested and just have no idea.

We don't need an electrical specialist; we can fix it. Can you please revisit the post above and go over what it says and report back please? Let's not replace any parts until we have a direction.

Okay, I went through your questions and the things to test. Everything has been tested as advised by me twice and mechanic twice. All checks out except for fuses 30 31 have no voltage and one more that only indicates on one side of the fuse. I will verify the number of the fuse when I get home. Were you able to view the video I sent? Those fuses that trigger the starter no longer have power even though they are new good fuses. Also, yes, I did go through all the gears trying to start and got nothing.

I don't see the video and if a fuse only has power on one side the fuse is no good. Do you have power at fuse f133? Please use this guide to check for power:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Let me know, step by step we will fix this problem.

Dang, I uploaded 2 videos and 3 photos of some connections hanging down that have never been plugged in. I don’t see fuse f133 on the map however all fuses and relays are working except for the following f2.46 f2.30, f2.31, f2.32, f2.33. The fuses are good just no voltage.

Update: when I pulled a fuse out F246 there is power at the prong, but when I put a fuse in, I’ve tried several there’s no power on the end of the fuse, and I did see a little bitty spark when I put the fuse in I do have headlights, and the prong is live only when I turn the headlights on.

Any ideas?

It takes time for the images and videos to upload from your phone so give it time please. Did you see the fuse panel images in the post above, it does not have a f133 fuse? It sounds like the central fuse panel might be bad.

Yeah, I noticed that. So, I waited for each to upload before I did anything else. But all things are pointing that way. Can you show me on the chart where f133 is there is a number 33, but chart has it labeled f2.33. Anyways I’m not sure if I talked about how and when this happened. I was listening to music without the engine running. I have a pretty good sound system, so I thought I’d better start the motor to charge the battery. It was dead. I jumped it with a jumper box started fine. Drive home and when I went to start it was dead and hasn’t moved since. I tried to jump but got nothing. It’s just odd how it would have fried at that moment. I guess I’ll go to the junk yard and try to find a replacement. They don’t have any my year so do you know if any other years will match my truck?

Couple pics of inside fuse box does look burnt in one spot.

Sure, here is the fuse in question and you might have found the problem because the circuit board does not look good at all. Can I ask what is the production date of the truck, it should be in the driver's door.

Sorry for the delay, I ordered a fuse box it took a week. Put it in still nothing. Here is a pic of the sticker on inside door but it’s hard to read.

Do you have power at the f113 fuse?

There is no f113 fuse. At least nothing is labeled f1 anything on the diagram for my fuse box. They are f2. I just spoke to the Ford dealership. They don’t want to take my truck because it’s too old. He said this year of trucks having problems with the wiring harness or too much resistance in the battery cable. He also said the cable going from battery to battery I don’t know what that means as I only have one battery.

So, the latest update if you’re still with me. I decided to jump the starter by pulling the relay out. Which I’ve done before. But this time the truck actually fired up. Which scared me because I thought I had to turn the key to start or all the way forward, but it was just in run. Anyways put 1,2,3 new relays in no crank. I have people on me about moving this truck, so I decided for now the new key is a paper clip. I tapped everything back together and now I have no power at that starter relay. It will not jump or turn over at all. Some of the fuses on the right side no power.

Also, I see where your diagram says f113not sure which 30amp fuse it is but I’ll check for power down that row.

Do you have power at terminal 30 of the starter relay?

Please go over this guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

Okay, I watched and read it all. Here’s the issue with helpful videos that are all over YouTube. Even the ford guys do this because they assuming the issue the view is having is the one that happens 95% of the time and they don’t tell what to do if the test is not conclusive. That other 5% is what happens to me 95% of the time so the video showed what to do when the test lights up on the internal circuit or prongs. It does not tell what to do if they do not light up . In short, I do not have power at 30 and 31. I also do not have power at 45. Included in the pics I’m sending fuses 113 and 116 only have power at one prong unless they are suppose to be that way. Fuse 103 has power at both prongs. And no power where starter relay is. There was power there earlier when I was able to jump it. So, I need to figure out wires in the cluster that supply power to those connections in the back of fuse box to the fuse location spots that have no power and trace wire in cluster for damage.

You should have power at both prongs, is the fuse blown? and you should have power at terminal 30 if not this is your problem. Please reference the starter relay wiring diagrams above.

No, the fuses are not blown. I have triple and quadruple check them and replaced everything. The only thing left is the wiring harness and I have stripped the wiring harness and looked at every wire. I do not know what else to do. I’m at the end I don’t know, I’ve unplugged the fuse box and looked at all the wires. The Ford dealership doesn’t want to deal with it, so they won’t take it.

Sorry for the confusion when you said terminal 30, I thought you meant fuse 30. I measured battery voltage on the two inlets in the junction box where the starter relay plugs in. I tested only the two terminals that you use to jump. They both have battery voltage. But now when I try to jump nothing happens. The one fuse terminal in question is noted in my drawing I believe is 113. The upper prong lights up but the lower prong or terminal is dead. Also, in drawing the small fuses have no power. I think somehow 113 is connected to the other fuses through the motherboard. This is exactly what my first fuse box did and why I replaced it. So, I need to know which wires feed those terminals. Either that or I burned up a second fuse junction box. I haven’t taken it apart to check.

So, if you turn the ignition key to the crank position can you feel the starter relay click?

I put my fingers on it I can feel a light click but more so on the PCM relay. So, I had another mechanic come out for another $150 and tells me that it’s the starter solenoid. I told him I had it tested three times, but he insisted. So, I went and bought a brand-new starter and put it on still nothing, but I am able to jump the starter at the relay now.

Will it crank in neutral? If so, the neutral safety switch is bad.

No, it won’t crank in neutral, and I’ve replaced that along with everything else related within the last month. We seem to be going in a circle. Could it be something with the ECM computer? When the first mechanic put his scanner on it, it said it had some old codes about key fob but couldn’t erase them. There is no security on this truck so it’s not that. Idk. Sounds like we’re both out of ideas. In my first post I believe I listed all the parts I’ve replaced. Thanks again

Okay, let's check for power at fuse # 31 with the key on, also if you have power there please check the ltgrn/vio coming out of the ignition switch in the crank position which you can get to by the steering column.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

So, it turns out that eBay vendor sent me the wrong cjb. I’m sending it back today. It does seem odd though that it has the exact same issue with the wrong junction box. Either way I will be back as soon as I receive the correct one.
I also stumble on a very long forum page with some people having trouble finding the correct cjb for example mine 2c7t-14a067ap vs 3c3t-14a067bh and many variants could be problematic locating the one my truck will accept as well as I may have to have it reprogrammed. They also talked about replacing the ECM and other components. I know I’m getting ahead of myself here I’m just hoping it isn’t worst case scenario. Regardless I appreciate all of your guidance and will be back as soon as I get the new part.

Yep, I have heard of that issue as well, let me know what happens after you get the correct part.

Will do sir, thank you.

Well, there’s an update on my truck and I was able to find an exact match on the fuse box central junction box. I put it in truck start it up with the key no problem ran great for a day went to the DMV today and no start no crank Was able to jump the relay. I got it home and wired in a switch and I’m going to use that as my new key now. I guess I’m not sure what’s going on but hopefully it lasts.

Good call, it sounds like it might be the ignition switch.

Well, that was replaced on the second day of my long list of parts I replaced. By best guess since the wire from the fuse box to the s post has no power but did for a day with the new box is if I have this correct. The ignition circuit from the key to switch to relay to neutral S S to stater solenoid some where there is a short. This shirt doesn’t show up in the simple test light test because it would have to be constant voltage which it’s not. That circuit is in the acc side which is only hot when key is on. The problem with finding the short is now that circuit is powered which will disguise the short. I’ve done voltage drop on the wire and got no indicators of loss of battery voltage. So, the switch is still working, and you still need a key to start it so nobody can still it. I’m back on the road so it will have to work. I appreciate your expertise and time thanks again.

You are welcome, nice looking truck!