The engine will not crank or start?

So, I have put new everything you can think of I do mean everything. I had a mobile Mechanic come today and finally gave up. I paid him $100.00 for his time but I’m still lost. The only thing the scanner said was key fob and it wouldn’t allow him to erase old codes. He said I might need an electrical specialist in which I can’t afford.

I’m considering going to the junk yard and buying a new fuse panel but it’s expensive. It seems like fuses 30 and 31 have fused together inside. Not the fuses but the board. Also, number 37 only lights up on one side. I don't know but I have test and retested and just have no idea.

Okay, I went through your questions and the things to test. Everything has been tested as advised by me twice and mechanic twice. All checks out except for fuses 30 31 have no voltage and one more that only indicates on one side of the fuse. I will verify the number of the fuse when I get home. Were you able to view the video I sent? Those fuses that trigger the starter no longer have power even though they are new good fuses. Also, yes, I did go through all the gears trying to start and got nothing.

Dang, I uploaded 2 videos and 3 photos of some connections hanging down that have never been plugged in. I don’t see fuse f133 on the map however all fuses and relays are working except for the following f2.46 f2.30, f2.31, f2.32, f2.33. The fuses are good just no voltage.

Update: when I pulled a fuse out F246 there is power at the prong, but when I put a fuse in, I’ve tried several there’s no power on the end of the fuse, and I did see a little bitty spark when I put the fuse in I do have headlights, and the prong is live only when I turn the headlights on.

Any ideas?

Yeah, I noticed that. So, I waited for each to upload before I did anything else. But all things are pointing that way. Can you show me on the chart where f133 is there is a number 33, but chart has it labeled f2.33. Anyways I’m not sure if I talked about how and when this happened. I was listening to music without the engine running. I have a pretty good sound system, so I thought I’d better start the motor to charge the battery. It was dead. I jumped it with a jumper box started fine. Drive home and when I went to start it was dead and hasn’t moved since. I tried to jump but got nothing. It’s just odd how it would have fried at that moment. I guess I’ll go to the junk yard and try to find a replacement. They don’t have any my year so do you know if any other years will match my truck?

Couple pics of inside fuse box does look burnt in one spot.

Sorry for the delay, I ordered a fuse box it took a week. Put it in still nothing. Here is a pic of the sticker on inside door but it’s hard to read.

There is no f113 fuse. At least nothing is labeled f1 anything on the diagram for my fuse box. They are f2. I just spoke to the Ford dealership. They don’t want to take my truck because it’s too old. He said this year of trucks having problems with the wiring harness or too much resistance in the battery cable. He also said the cable going from battery to battery I don’t know what that means as I only have one battery.

So, the latest update if you’re still with me. I decided to jump the starter by pulling the relay out. Which I’ve done before. But this time the truck actually fired up. Which scared me because I thought I had to turn the key to start or all the way forward, but it was just in run. Anyways put 1, 2, 3 new relays in no crank. I have people on me about moving this truck, so I decided for now the new key is a paper clip. I tapped everything back together and now I have no power at that starter relay. It will not jump or turn over at all. Some of the fuses on the right side no power.

Also, I see where your diagram says f113not sure which 30amp fuse it is but I’ll check for power down that row.

Okay, I watched and read it all. Here’s the issue with helpful videos that are all over YouTube. Even the ford guys do this because they assuming the issue the view is having is the one that happens 95% of the time and they don’t tell what to do if the test is not conclusive. That other 5% is what happens to me 95% of the time so the video showed what to do when the test lights up on the internal circuit or prongs. It does not tell what to do if they do not light up. In short, I do not have power at 30 and 31. I also do not have power at 45. Included in the pics I’m sending fuses 113 and 116 only have power at one prong unless they are suppose to be that way. Fuse 103 has power at both prongs. And no power where starter relay is. There was power there earlier when I was able to jump it. So, I need to figure out wires in the cluster that supply power to those connections in the back of fuse box to the fuse location spots that have no power and trace wire in cluster for damage.