Engine not cranking no starter operation?

Glad to hear it

This sounds like you have a starter relay that is stuck. Here is the location of the relay (#6) guide to test it and the wiring diagrams so you can see how it works:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers, Ken

Unplug the RED LT/BLU wire on the strter solenoid, connect a test light to that wire and try starting the engine with the ignition switch. The testlight should come on (if the ignition switch is working properly).

Secondly, you should quickly jumper the unplugged terminal on the solenoid (the one where the RED LT/BLU wire was connected) with the terminal where the battery cable connects to the solenoid (this simulates turning the ignition switch to the ON position); the starter should operate as long as the jumper is in place.

If the starter works when you lumer it, but not when you turn the key; replace the solenoid.

You need to charge the battery WAY more than 15 minutes. All vehicles from that time period can draw up to 35 milliamps, (.035 amps), to maintain the many computer memories. Chrysler says at that rate a good battery will still crank the engine enough to start after sitting for three weeks. That is the industry standard for a new battery, so we can assume nothing else is wrong with your truck.

After seven months the battery will be completely dead. It will take ten to fifteen minutes on a battery charger before the acid becomes conductive and the battery begins to take a charge. If your charger has an amp meter, you will see the current start out at nearly 0 amps, then it will slowly come up as the battery starts to take a charge. After about an hour, the current will go back down as the higher battery voltage opposes the charger's voltage. You can consider the battery fully charged when the current drops to around five amps.

This isn't so important with a newer battery, but when they get to be two to four years old you should never charge them at a high rate. Your generator puts out three-phase current which is very steady. Home battery chargers put out rectified single phase current which goes from 0 amps to maximum amps 120 times per second. That pulsing current vibrates the plates in the battery and will accelerate the natural flaking off of the lead. When enough has flaked off and collects in the bottom of the cell, it shorts the plates and the battery must be replaced. The simple solution is to always use battery chargers on low charge rates to prevent overheating them and to delay the inevitable shorted cell. Give it a good hour on the charger.

Good morning,

I suggest you load test the battery when it is hot to determine is the battery is the issue. It may be a weak battery.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

I also attached a wiring diagram of the starting system. Verify power to the starter solenoid when cranking.

Roy

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Since you did a major repair, I suspect that something was left disconnected. First, since there is now power to the vehicle, my first guess would be the main ground from the battery. Check to make sure you reattached it or if it was damaged.

I attached a portion of the wiring schematic for you to review. It indicates two grounds from battery. First, check the one that is lower left of the engine block.

Next, check the 50 amp maxi fuse (number 5) in the under hood power distribution box. See pictures 2 and 3. This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens. Let me know what you find. Joe

Glad to help. I had a feeling it had to do with a ground. When you do that big of a job, it's easy to overlook a single wire.

Let us know if you have questions in the future.

Take care,
Joe