Sputters while idling, ideas?

Hello,

This sounds like a vacuum leak here's a guide to help fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Please run down this guide and report back.

No, there is no engine light on so that is why I figured I would asked first before taking it to be checked out. I am very new to car repair but I tackle complex electronics and mechanics quite a bit at my job so I am not afraid of it.

As I said before. It is just a very slight sputter while it is at idle. If you were not feeling for it you might not even notice it.

Well that is why you got to love warranties then. But when it does get fixed if you could post the problem that would be great.

Took it to Autozone and got the computer checked. Came up with the code P0328.

Code P0328

Knock Sensor 1
Circuit High Input
Bank 1 or 1 Sensor

Could this be the cause of my idle problem, or is the sensor just detecting something's wrong and not giving me a CEL?

The Knock sensor only tells you when there is excess vibration in your engine, which you already know. You are still looking for something else.

These cars love only giving that code. I have replaced the plugs, distributor cap, rotor, TPS and MAF sensors. As well as the bearing in the distributor. Car still does not want to maintain speed without spitting, sputtering and backfiring.

I will be driving along and all of a sudden it will give a little shudder and die. I have replaced the cat. Converter, furl pump and the mechanic has traced the wires to no avail. I am having the pcm checked tomorrow, but would like some ideas as to what I may hear from them tomorrow. Lol plus I don't know this mechanic so I want to make sure I'm well versed so I don't wind up paying 3 grand for a 300 dollar fix.

Thank you I will see about having them check that

My vehicle began to miss about two weeks ago. I first thought it may be an injector stopped up so I added a fuel treatment and began running high octane gas. I also replaced the fuel filter. The problem has progressively gotten worse. I changed the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor button. The problem began only after the engine reached operating temperature, but has sense started as soon as the engine runs. There are no warning lights or check engine light on. I did have the codes checked and a knock sensor code is being thrown. I have been told that this should not effect the timing enough to notice. What may be my problem? I have stumped local mechanics and would like to fix my wife's truck.

If it was one of the sensors would it not throw a code in relation to the sensor? The only code that is showing is the Knock Sensor. I have been told that it will not affect performance. Is there anything specific that can be tested rather than replacing every component on the engine?

I had a similar problem. Truck would misfire and rough idle after engine was warm. Same knock sensor code. Sputtering and exhaust manifold was glowing bright orange.

I had a distributor bearing that failed in the distributor rotor. When engine was cool, the rotor was moving in all the thick grease so no problem. Once engine warmed up, the grease thinned out and was rotating in all the metal shavings causing it to lock up. The truck was surging, cutting off, rough idle, extreme heat in exhaust.

Mechanic said the rotor looked like a rats nest of metal shavings from the failed bearings and washer.

Replaced distributor cap, distributor rotor, spark plugs, and wires. ($1,100.00 total) Now I need to replace the valve cover gaskets since the intense heat melted the gasket and is causing a minor oil leak. ($600.00)

Heat was caused from the misfiring, which opened the injectors, causing them to dump huge loads of fuel into the cylinder (ten times as much according to the computer measuring injector opening time). All that gas caused the temperature to skyrocket. Fortunately, I did not ruin the catalytic converters with the heat.

Everything is fine now. Saving money to get gaskets changed out.

I have head of the engine coolant sensor causing this issue as well.

I have this same vehicle, same issue. I have replaced the bearing ( 26mm o.D 10mm i.D 8mm w), the distributor and rotor, all new plugs. Set the timing, replaced TPS and MAF sensor. Thing still runs badly. It will accelerate, but runs very rough trying to maintain speed. At this point, I think it has jumped time and will replace the timing belt. Idles nice by the way, but runs rough after. Either the timing belt or maybe a plugged catalytic converter?

I marked the rotor button position before I removed the distributor from the engine when I replaced the bearing, went right back in on the mark.

Put all new platinum plugs in it yesterday. Adjusted the TPS, again.
Car will idle just fine. Put it in gear and try to go and spits, sputters, backfires. With the money I have spent on this stupid thing, I could almost buy another engine. At my wits end with it.

Replaced the MAF. This is the third one. Though I digress, I got them used. I tried cleaning it with choke cleaner. No improvement. Guess I will throw another $100.00 at it and see if that fixes it. Thanks

I found a vacuum line has been taken off and capped at both the air box where the filter is and on the back of the engine drivers side.
The car ran well before the distributor bearing went out though.
Well, replaced it. Did not fix the issue.