Can be a bad pump? I need to replace it again?

I am not sure what you mean by fuel module control. Where did you get it and what is the part number. A picture helps, too.

REMOVAL
1. Release fuel pressure.

2. Remove inspection hole cover located under the rear seat.

3. Disconnect fuel supply tube, return tube and electrical connectors.
4. Remove the six screws.
5. Disconnect fuel tubes and connector, then remove fuel gauge assembly.

6. Remove fuel pump with chamber.
*Pull up the front of the chamber.
*Slide chamber forward.

7. Remove fuel pump from chamber.

INSTALLATION
To install, reverse the removal procedure.

CAUTION:

*Tighten bolts to specified torque.

2.0 - 2.5 Nm (0.20 - 0.26 kg-m, 17.4 - 22.6 in-lb)

*Always replace O-ring with a new one.
*After installation, run engine and check for leaks at connections.

Have your husband clean the entire throttle body, including the butterfly and throttle cable. Sticky carbon buildup within the TB probably caused the throttle cable stayed engaged even when you remove your foot from the accelerator pedal.

You access it thru the backseat its a simple job when you get there

Check the fuel pressure before you condemn the fuel pump/and remove the back seat and double check the fuel pump connector-

Or disconnect the fuel filter turn key to On and observe for fuel -No fuel the pump is defective-

Your car doesn't have a carburetor. It should be fuel injected.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Fuel filter wouldn't cause engine to stall. Inspect your fuel pump relay before replacing your pump itself.

A relay is similar to a switch, only the vehicle's computer turns it ON or OFF instead of a human. When the relay is activated, it allows the component that it controls to operate. If for some reason the relay fails, it can no longer allow the component to operate either. Your vehicle's fuel pump relay is located under the left side of the dash and should be green in color. It will be a large plastic square shaped item plugged in, it just pulls out much like a fuse does. You can go to our "first things to check" page to learn how to test an electrical relay

Recheck the lines-do you hear the fuel pump come On when key at run position? If so check fuel pressure with a gauge not the eyeball or thumb method.