Hard starting in cold

What to do to fix proublem

Replaced clutch had fly wheel resurfaced customer came back five months later complaining of hard start cold but says after driving warm car starts fine after took nissian said fly wheel could be put on wrong they tell me there 6 different ways for flywheel can go on. Does any body now of this.

I own 1996 maxima
it have 146937 miles
In the morning it is very hard to start
and if I park 7 or more hours it hart to start.
I replace d a cooling temp. Sensor and air flow map
but it do the same
Thank
Frank

The car is hard to start when cold (morning)
once it starts it runs 100% a OK

I get ecm code 7-7 and 10-5

for the 7-7 code
I am not sure if I should replace the fuel presure regulator
or the rear oxygen sensor I am thinking the preasure regulator, as I dont belive the oxy sensor would effect the starting
I have removed the ground cable from the battery
to the engine and body and really cleaned them
up real good filed them down on both sides also filed body and engine connecting points, they realy were in bad shape

I also dont think the 10-5 error code would cause the hard starting and was going to troubleshoot that later
Am I on the right track

thanks duffy55

The starter seems to turning, there is a high pitched whiring sound, but the engine only occasionally turns over and starts. I need to confirm if this sounds like the starter, and if there are any other things this could be.

That sounds like the problem. The starter is connected to the fly wheel by where the transmission and motor connect. Have the batter disconnected and take the starter out of the car first then bring it in because they will probably have a core charge for that.

Sir is Nissan maxima qx 1995, Is doing hard starting, no sparking on the plug sir. Thanks and God bless.

My car, when starting first thing in day, or when it sits for a over 3 hours; shakes. After driving for 2-3 minutes the wobbling goes away for the rest of the day, unless car sits for more than 3 hours. Just stopping, turn off for an hour and start again, there's no shaking/wobbling at first. The shaking is when I back up the car out of driveway.

My problem is that, when I took it to local repair shop, they diagnosed my car as having rack & pinion problems and got charged close to $900. I never had problems with steering at all. They also included alignment, although I didn't have problem with that either.

All I know is I'm out $900; but hard start is gone. What could problem have been and could it have been cheaper to fix? I think I got ripped off for a cheaper problem (oh, 5 out of 6 fuel injectors were already replaced, but car didn't shake all the time to need last injector replaced, plus fuel injector replacement would of been cheaper). Help, please!

Are engine mounts more expensive than rack & pinion repairs for this car; as in researching this it seems I might have had engine mount problems. Also 2 belts were replaced, would it just have been the belts (which repair shop said were so old that they broke while doing other work on car).

The car is a 1995 Nissan Maxima. The engine was just put in and the fuel will not go past the fuel regulator but we have tired three of them. They can't all be bad. If you switch the lines and put the return on the regulator you can get it started with some effort and it will run great but as soon as you turn it off it is hard to start again it floods out. If you put the lines back the right way it won't start at all because the gas does not go through. We have replaced the crank sensor, there is fuel injector pulse, the fuel pump is pumping 60lbs. To the regulator. We have run out of ideas.

Bobby1957

Hello again. I have one more problem of the vehicle. I changed the trans to a used one and now its working fine. But now its having a hard time starting. Before I changed the automatic trans it was fine. When I start it it takes several times before it starts. Could it be some sensors on the trans or something else.