My air conditioner is not working?

Tiny
JESSIE3
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2014 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 102,000 MILES
Hello, my car listed above SL is blowing hot air out of the A/C. I have had it charged and it worked only for a few minutes and then went hot again. My check engine light came on about 2 weeks ago and I had it diagnosed and found out the problem was a computer reprogram code it wasn't for my CVT reprogram because about 6 months ago I had the CVT reprogrammed at the Nissan dealer because of the recall. It was for my TCM reprogram (re-flash) I was told by a mechanic that it need to be re-flashed by the Nissan dealer and that it should have been done when they reprogrammed the CVT Recall. I have recently replaced cabin my air filter, not sure if that's completely relevant but wanted that to be included in the description of the problem. So would the re-flash have anything to do with what's going on with my A/C, or is that something that is completely separate? My A/C was blowing hot air prior to the reprogram/recall repair and still is blowing only hot air it used to give off a pungent smell as well. It no longer does but it is been blowing hot air for some time now. My defrost takes forever to work as well when it's raining outside or on days when it's cold. Tried to think of all issues associated with the A/C currently. Thank you to anyone who can help much appreciated.
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. In short the flash and air filter have nothing to do with this. I suspect we have a pretty good size leak because when you charged it and it started working then stopped again. That is because the system had Freon in it until it all leaked back out.

I would suggest with starting by look for a leak. You do this by checking all the lines and components in the engine compartment for the leak. Here is a guide that will help with this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-leak-detection

If you find no leaks in the engine compartment then you need check in the HVAC housing to see if the evaporator is leaking.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Let us know what you find and we can go from there. Thanks
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MATHEW1997
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 53,000 MILES
Air conditioner not cooling it is blowing hot air. My compressor clutch is on.
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Pull the HVAC fuse in fuse box inside car with key on for sixty seconds then replace. It may reset the air temperature actuator. If still not blowing cold check pipes going into dash one should be hot other cold if not then there is something else wrong like low on Freon which should be checked by a professional. If automatic temperature control where you set temperature
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AMILLER1975
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 59,000 MILES
With the A/C on, the air smells like mildew and the air isn't very cold. Because of the smell, I changed the cabin air filter, hoping that was all that I needed. Within a few hours the slightly cold air turned hot. So I added refrigerant. That did not work at all. The mildew smell has almost cleared but temperature seems to be getting hotter. Any advice? Full disclosure, I am not a DIY person. I don't mind trying but I have a better chance of making things worse than I do fixing it.
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Try this , pull the two fuses in pic for 60 seconds then reinstall them sometimes the actuator will reset from this. If it cools then gets hot have a professional look at it as it may be what is called freezing up. also run the ac after doing the fuse thing and feel the large pipe going into dash. if it is cool it may be the temp actuator or something else. but a pro should do this because of what you have previously stated.

Here is a guide on what to look for and so you can know what a mechanic is telling you

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Please let us know what happens so it will help others

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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KIERA1986
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 81,105 MILES
Is the entire hose that you add Freon in should be cold or just part of it?
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
We need to start with what the actual A/C pressures are. You could have a restriction in the system but we can find this out with what the high and low side pressures are and go from there.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

If you don't have a gauge set then you can rent those from most parts stores that have a tool rental program. Let's hook that up and see what they are with the compressor on and off.

Let's start here and see what they are telling us. Thanks
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

Most likely low in Freon but need to check. Is the compressor working when you turn it on? I attached a wiring diagram for to view if it is not working.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

You need a set of gauges to see the actual high and low side pressures. Without pressure, it will not work.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-leak-detection

As far as the hose, yes, it will be cold when the A/C system is working correctly.

Roy
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RAYALTIMA2013
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 69,000 MILES
The Freon charge test goes red. Clutch does not engage. Blower was checked and found clean and works well. The compressor control valve was replaced with new one.

Nothing happens. No cold air with A/C placed at max.

Dealer diagnostics pointed to the A/C compressor. It has to be replaced. Exorbitant price. Did not bite it.

But what they did not check is the A/C fuse. Based on video online the fuse box near the battery shows the fuse to be Red 10A which is found on top space at 2nd spot. Not sure if indeed this is the aircon fuse. But when we tested it, it was not blown but does not light up when tested.

Questions:

As described were we able to pinpoint exactly the real A/C fuse?

If it is, then where shall we look to make it work? If that is not the A/C fuse, where can we accurately find it?

Thank you and best regards,
Ray Raz
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,443 POSTS
What are the actual pressures in the system using a set of A/C gauges? Saying the gauge goes red sounds like one of the gauges on a can and if it's in the red the system is likely overcharged.
As for the fuses there are at least 4 different versions of that system. The 4 door manual system where you have a dial to control the temperature uses fuse #53 in the under-hood box. If you have the automatic system where you just set a digital temperature and it does the rest uses fuse #41 If you have the 2 door coupe then both use fuse #41 for the A/C clutch. Fuse 41 will be either a 10 amp or a 30 amp depending on which version of the car you have, Both 41 and 53 are circled in the image of the under-hood fuse block.
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BONE1985
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,283 MILES
The AC will not blow cold air after filling it with refrigerant. It's not cycling right. Where is it located and what is the price of the relay?
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello, I'm Danny.

The relay is located in the IPDM (integrated power distribution module) under the hood.Here is a tutorial showing how to test a relay:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Relays are available at any local auto parts sores and generally run about $10.00. I've attached a picture below showing its location.Its location in the IPDM will be marked on the plastic cover.Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SANDERS530
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
  • 2012 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
My A/C compressor clutch is not engaging. It is not locked up. What could be the problem?
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Hi,

Let's start with the AC pressures with the engine off and then with it running. If the Freon is low then it will prevent the compressor from coming on.

If this is okay, then we can move onto the next item which will be making sure there is power to the compressor but let's start with what the pressures are.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SANDERS530
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
There is power to the compressor and there is Freon is full. I want to replace the clutch coil. What is the easiest way to remove the center bolt out of compressor without removing the compressor off of the car?
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Here is a video of a 2007 but I don't see that they are much different. If this doesn't help let me know and we can figure something else out. However, this was not meant to do in the vehicle which is why it is so difficult. That doesn't mean it can't be done, it will just require creative thinking.

https://youtu.be/P7MWWgLIFGQ
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VECTOR2ATL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 116,000 MILES
So A/C was blowing warm air. I took it to a shop and they vacuumed and replace Freon. They also put dye in Freon to check if there was leaks. Five days later it is blowing warm air again? Help if there is no leaks per mechanic.
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
If there are no leaks then they didn't put any Freon into the system. This sounds like the compressor has gone out or the system is low on charge or a fuse is bad, these videos and guides can help us fix the problem with diagrams below to show you how on your car. I have included (below) the air conditioner wiring diagrams as well so you can see how the system works.

https://youtu.be/4UjfQKvrB6Y not working

and

https://youtu.be/uZrQCGwXfek recharge

and

https://youtu.be/yrhWKlQEPWw leak detection

and

https://youtu.be/4EqdrBVb0sY vacuum and recharge

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)

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