My air conditioner is not working?

This does sound like a fuse is blown here is a guide to help check them with the fuse location in the diagrams below. On the left side of the dash check fuse # 3, 19 and 26.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Here are the fuse location and I have also included the AC wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works. Check out the diagrams (Below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Well step one would be to actually put a gauge on the system to see if there is a charge in it. Could be that they evacuated the system, or that there was a leak in the system.

However, let's assume they didn't this system uses a throttling valve compressor with a magnetic clutch. Power wise there are two fuses fuse # 44 a 10 amp is in the fuse box under the hood. It only controls the valve in the compressor. Fuse # 30 sends power to the AC switch from the accessory relay, both of those are in the junction box in the dash. Other than the compressor and the pressure sensor (part of the condenser in the front of the car) the rest of the pieces are internal to the ECM and BCM. Does the rest of the heating system work? The doors all seem to be okay and you can select hot/cold and defrost, dash, floor? That would show that fuse 30 and the accessory relay are working.
To test the AC clutch you just need to disconnect the plug from the magnet coil and use two leads connected to the battery to apply voltage to the terminals. If the clutch activates it is OK.
The pressure sensor does both low and high pressure but there are no specs listed in how to test it. Every test they show requires a OEM level scan tool.

Hello

What brand compressor did you install? There is only one thing that can cause low high side pressures and high low side pressures, the compressor.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Please run down this guide and report back. Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on? that would be great. You can upload it here with your response.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

This sounds like the compressor has gone out or the system is low on charge or a fuse is bad, these videos and guides can help us fix the problem with diagrams below to show you how on your car. I have included (below) the air conditioner wiring diagrams as well so you can see how the system works.

https://youtu.be/4UjfQKvrB6Y not working

and

https://youtu.be/uZrQCGwXfek recharge

and

https://youtu.be/yrhWKlQEPWw leak detection

and

https://youtu.be/4EqdrBVb0sY vacuum and recharge

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

As it works on manual and not automatic makes me think it is related to one of the temperature sensors that tells the system how hot or cold the interior is. If it was the compressor it wouldn't work in either mode. The primary sensor is the one behind the panel under and to the right of the steering column. If it fails the controller thinks that it is cold in the vehicle and will not operate the A/C. There is also a sensor on the intake area of the HVAC case that performs a similar function but detects the air temperature inside the case to keep the system from freezing up if it's humid. In this case I would use a scan tool to verify the issue first and be sure that it isn't one of the other sensors, however if you just wanted to toss a sensor in they run about $20.00 or so which is cheaper than most places will do diagnostics for. That would be your call.

To access it you need to remove the lower panel. To start you remove the instrument side trim panel using a trim stick or plastic putty knife.
The panel is attached with clips and hooks, you use a trim tool to gently pry them loose
Broken square indicates: Metal clip Broken circle indicates: Pawl
Now tip the panel down enough that you can remove the sensor wiring and the sensor from the panel. Reverse the process to reinstall the sensor and panel.

Or have a shop run the diagnostic and see what it shows. As the system operates in manual mode it has to be an issue in the automatic controls, not the mechanical side of the system, something like a bad compressor or low charge would make it stop working completely.

You are welcome.

The cabin temperature sensor is the one inside the car that I covered in that post. The ambient temperature sensor tells the system what the exterior temperature is. The cabin sensor is part 277203AA0A and is in the dash as I stated in the post above. It tells the system what the interior temperature is.

You're welcome. Should have included the part number in the post.

It is doubtful that this is a PCM on this vehicle. If the compressor is not getting power then the more likely cause is a relay so we need to test this and make sure they are checking this properly.

Here is a guide that will help with this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

The PCM is responsible for grounding the control side of the relay which will close the relay and send power to the compressor through the light blue wire shown below on the wiring diagram.

So we need to go to the relay and check for power on the wire coming from the fuse (number 1). If you have it, jump power to the terminal of the relay that leads to the compressor (number 2).

This will apply power to the compressor and prove that it works.

Then we can test the control side by seeing if the PCM is grounding the relay. Put the red lead of your meter on battery positive, the black lead on number 3 terminal of the relay and then turn the AC on. If the PCM is grounding the relay properly you will have 12 volts on your meter.

If it is not, then we need to check pressures again because I doubt this shop actually checked them.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

Once we know the pressures we will have a better idea if the PCM is the issue.

Thanks