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New Tie Rod Ends?

Tiny
TUKZ86
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 168,000 MILES
So firstly, the tie Rod ends are definitely a requirement. At least for the RHS wheel, as I have done the LHS before, about 7 months ago though I intend doing both now. The reason being, when I turn the steering wheel to turn left and then the suspension compresses somehow, there is a knock on the RHS suspension. This only happens when I turn left. If I turn right, no sounds. It’s hard to explain the suspension compressing by text, but best way I can explain it is when turning left onto a ramp, that soon as the RHS front wheel gets on the ramp and the suspension compresses, there is a distinct knock on the RHS wheel suspension, as if something moves from one end to the other quite abruptly. The knock can’t be felt in the wheel or seat though, it’s only audible.

The issue is the new Tie Rod ends seem to need servicing... As can be seen from images below, the new Rod End has a service hole with a nipple included in the packaging. So, it is obvious that I need to install the nipple, even if just to avoid the grease leaking out. My challenge and first question is, do I need to grease it again as well?

Secondly: The ring on the top near the nut isn’t exactly tight either, and as can be seen from the image’s below, I can pull the boot down using my hands. The current Rod Ends on the car though, I can’t just pull the boot down with my hands, old as it is...
So, second question is, would I need to tighten the ring as well - and if so how, or can I just install and tighten the nipple, then install the new Tie Rod end as is? Note that there is no slot around the ball shaft itself where the ring would slot into!

Awaiting your responses...
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Monday, January 2nd, 2023 AT 9:30 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
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So, the Zirk fitting goes into the bottom of the tie rod end and filled with grease once it is installed, this will keep the boot in place as well, once you see the boot is full stop adding grease. As far as the noise goes, I would look at the CV axles which is what it sounds like is causing the noise. You will need to remove the axle to check it out and please go over this guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-cv-axle-joint

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-cv-joint-works

Please go over these guides and report back.
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Tuesday, January 3rd, 2023 AT 10:19 AM
Tiny
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Hi Ken and thank you for your response.

I don’t think it’s the CV joint, though I roll have a look too. The reason I say this is because I’m familiar with CV joint noises, and the knock I’m hearing is not a clicking noise. It’s a once-off knock! This only happens once, and even then, only when turning left onto a ramp and the suspension compresses. If for example I turn left on a completely flat road, there is no knock. One on the RHS wheel as well by the way. That is, if I turn right onto a ramp, then no knock noise when either wheels suspension gets compressed!

It’s hard to explain without a video, and I must stress that the noise one happens when the suspension compresses, as if one of the bushes or ball joints moves quite abruptly from one end to the other and the knock is when the travel limit is reached, hence the Tie Rod End question as a start. I got a full set of bushes for the left lower control arm, as well as the lower ball joint, together with the two new Tie Rod Ends. The RHS upper control arm is hardly 5 months old, while the LHS got new Upper control arm, and already did the full set of bushes and the lower ball joint. I’m hoping to get the LHS Axle off sometime this week together with the lower control arm and the hub though, so I’ll have a look.

The RHS CV boot is still intact from what I can see without the wheel off, but I’ll inspect it thoroughly.

Regards.
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Tuesday, January 3rd, 2023 AT 9:08 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Sounds good, could it be a strut noise? You can upload short video here with your reply.
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Wednesday, January 4th, 2023 AT 8:05 PM
Tiny
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Strut noise? Like as in the shock mount? I suppose that’s also possible, though I realize that I forgot to mention that I got two brand new shock absorbers on both sides, each with new shock upper mounts, entering torqued down with suspension under load. But I’ll definitely consider that...

Video will be difficult, but will certainly try...
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Wednesday, January 4th, 2023 AT 8:41 PM
Tiny
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Here we go! There around 7-9 seconds the bang!

I’m currently taking the hub, lower control arm and steering tie Rod ends. All on the RHS, though I’m going to change the LHS tie Rod end as well.
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Wednesday, January 4th, 2023 AT 10:56 PM
Tiny
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Got everything out, but then saw this (video), and I can’t help but ask: is the CV supposed to be able to move in and out like this? It appears it is still connected inside the boot, but I’m not certain...

Also, the lower ball joint is easily moved around by hand, and so is the steering tie rod end ball joint as well as the ball joints on the Stabilizer link (video2).

So, going to replace all bushings and ball joint, new Tie Rod end as well as new ball joints on the Stabilizer link, though that last one if I can’t find ball joints for it, I’ll replace the entire thing...

Let me know what you think about the CV joint.

Regards.
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Thursday, January 5th, 2023 AT 12:05 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, thanks for the videos, the first video has the noise which is strange I would say the strut mount is what is causing the noise. This is where the strut pivots and holds the weight of the car. The other two videos are normal. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Thursday, January 5th, 2023 AT 12:55 PM
Tiny
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Okay, glad to hear that about the CV video.

In regards to the noise: look, I’ll take the shock mount off to check, will take pics as well. In the meantime, I decided to buy a new Stabilizer link as well, just in case.

Will keep you updated.
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Friday, January 6th, 2023 AT 2:45 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Sounds good.
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Friday, January 6th, 2023 AT 12:34 PM
Tiny
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Hi Ken, attached are some pics.

So, I removed the shock and spring assembly, but did not disassemble as that is one task, I never look forward to doing. I checked the assembly nonetheless, and there is nothing I can see that would indicate any wear or damage as proposed. So, I reinstalled and torqued down as before.

Then, I proceeded with the rest of the suspension work (lower control arm bushes, ball joint, steering tie rod ends, Stabilizer links), and after some other engine work (valve clearances), it seems that the sound is gone!

I took the car up on all the usual ramps that made that noise, so far none... There seems to be a new but much quieter rattle in the front though when going over speed bumps, but that I’ll investigate when time is available again.
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Saturday, January 7th, 2023 AT 10:20 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Glad you could get it fixed, thanks for letting us know. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.
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Monday, January 9th, 2023 AT 2:00 PM
Tiny
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Thank you, Ken, and I most certainly will.

But you might have been on to something though: whilst the knock is gone when climbing a ramp, now there is a much softer clunking or rattling noise when going over bumps... It’s softer, and when going straight.

I’ll have a look to see if perhaps I failed to tighten something properly, or maybe the shock mounts are going out slowly (though they both are less than a year old).
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Monday, January 9th, 2023 AT 8:28 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, that was my thought as well. Let me know if you replace the strut mount again and if it solves the problem.
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Tuesday, January 10th, 2023 AT 12:44 PM
Tiny
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Will do. It is a very stressful task I must say, as it includes not only removing the shock assembly with spring, but also disassembly of the Shock absorber/Spring assembly.

Won't be any time soon. But, will definitely get to it.
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Tuesday, January 10th, 2023 AT 8:29 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, you can get complete strut and spring assembly which is not that much more expensive fyi.
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Wednesday, January 11th, 2023 AT 11:52 AM

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