New exhaust replacement catalytic converters to tailpipe

Tiny
STEVE W.
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Looks good but I did spot one error, In this pic it looks like you put the spring between the two flanges. It should go between the nut and the flange. It's job is to squeeze the two pieces together so that it can flex on the donut but still stays sealed. Should look like the second picture, instead of the first one.
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Thursday, June 10th, 2021 AT 9:21 PM
Tiny
KLHUDOCK64
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Okay, good. Thanks so much. I'm so happy you found it. Yeah, I figured I would have to get back under there at some point. I would rather do it sooner than later. Thanks for catching that.
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Thursday, June 10th, 2021 AT 9:35 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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No problem, as far as torque specs go, on the exhaust there are really none, other than for the O3 sensors. That is because the OE system is welded up front and the flanges are simply tightened until they don't leak. Like that spring joint, it should be tightened until the coils have a small gap between them like in the image I posted, or until the nuts bottom on the threads, depending on the design. Most bottom out.
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Thursday, June 10th, 2021 AT 9:52 PM
Tiny
KLHUDOCK64
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How do I put springs on this exhaust to y pipe if it has bolts on it?
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Friday, June 11th, 2021 AT 1:50 PM
Tiny
KLHUDOCK64
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Should I gave fapped the existing bolts kut maybe. That exhaust has been taken off 3 times in 3 days and put beck firstly the V clamp gaskets or whatever they are called would have needed welded to both ends. There was no other way to do it is but has not been done. Secondly the Y pipe to the muffler already had bolts in it that were not going to work. I'm most likely going to make an appointment with a shop just to make sure nothing will get damaged the way it is. I didn't realize these donuts must be made out if maybe fiberglass or sketching that kind if melts and forms a seal eventually? I never thought in a million years I would care. Lol, Idk I have a NYS trio coming up next week and do not want to damage anything if I can help it. That's a pretty tight fit between manifold and the converters. I'm just going on the notion that just about anything is better than it was before and just hope everything seals up right and tight. I'll drive it for a few days around here and then tighten all nuts down again. I just don't want anything to happen on the engine side. As a plus though the check engine light went out and my 02 sensor codes are gone. So something someplace must be right for now! Thanks again.
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Friday, June 11th, 2021 AT 4:29 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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The donut gaskets are sort of unique, they age made of a mix of stainless or steel mesh material with a pressed soft metal powder. They are designed to somewhat deform into the bell end of the pipe and seal while also acting like a flexible connection so that engine motion doesn't cause the parts to bind, and they make assembly on the line easy.
There should be no welding needed on the V clamps, they should have bolts that close the clamp down to hold it in place. The ends of the V do nothing so if there is a gap that isn't an issue, the way those work is the V grabs the edges of the cone on each pipe and the gasket between the two pipes gets squeezed to seal the joint. When they are new some will leak a bit until everything works itself into place. Think of the V clamp as acting like a bunch of pliers all around the pipes trying to squeeze them together. The image attached shows a clamp on two stub pipes, in your application the stubs in the picture would be the manifold on one side and the converter on the other. Normally on these you leave them a bit loose, then sort of wobble the connection a bit as you tighten them to get the best fit and seal.
https://www.deedsengineering.com/v-band/ shows how the custom versions work. In your case the flanges are already attached so no welding needed. Just the o-ring gasket because it's a production part not a custom fit item.

Generally I try to just get things snugged up then wiggle and tweak the pieces until they all set in place nice, then go back and tighten everything down while trying not to move the parts. You would be surprised at how annoying it can be if a pipe or muffler is close or touching the body or frame can be.
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Friday, June 11th, 2021 AT 5:53 PM
Tiny
KLHUDOCK64
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Okay, great. Because I was going crazy thinking how the heck. I bought the V clamps with the male and female flanges so I was questioning everything. Enough that I took that while thing apart again today. One other thing that really threw me off was the AP exhaust pipe that was already welded to the muffler. I was running to get some more nuts for the ends because one fit and the other didn't well. I was told by someone that its a manufacturing defect. That every exhaust they ever worked on same thing. I was told to either tap the defective one out and replace it with the cold bottom the nut fit in or use a threaded in it. Best advice ever because that one side would not thread right. Well if I was going to try and save a few bucks I'm glad some stuff came up that made me stop and pay attention. Well then it's done. I'm very pleased and thank you so much. I'm kind of paranoid because it definitely sounds quieter but now I'm trying to get used to what an exhaust without holes sounds like lol. It still definitely sounds a little loud up front. Maybe it's the Liberty itself but when I go over a bridge I don't hear that echoing anymore so it has got to be right. I just always have to overthink everything. I went around with my hand and tried to feel any leaks or air or see anything leaking and I did not. Again, thank you so much!
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Friday, June 11th, 2021 AT 6:06 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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You're welcome. If you want to talk to a bunch of folks with them who also can point out issues and add-ons as well as custom stuff there is the www. Jeepkj. Com forum. You might be surprised at how popular they are, and how crazy some of the builds are.
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Friday, June 11th, 2021 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
KLHUDOCK64
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Update: Okay, so I did end up tapping the existing bolts that came on the new parts out to get the springs and bolts to go on and I just used vice grips to hold the band clamp back on after I forced it over the pipe to tighten it down. I did not want to tear that thing apart one more time, LOL. Everything is great no codes. I only ever had the one O2 sensor code. I replaced the downstream sensors but cleaned the other two. I have 2 new ones Jic. I think that exhaust will out live the vehicle. Thanks so much.
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 9:12 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Glad to hear you got it fixed. Exhaust work isn't too fun. LOL

Regardless, please feel free to come back in the future if you have questions.

Take care,

Joe
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 8:07 PM

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