Even with new Master It isn’t disengaging completely

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Either the slave is bad, it isn't properly bleed, or something wasn't put back together correctly. First, here are the directions according to Alldata for bleeding the system. Try their directions to see if it makes a difference.

Note: On vehicles equipped with quick-connect clutch tube, the manufacturer recommends replacing the tube whenever hydraulic system service is necessary, because the quick-connect feature tends to trap air in the system and prevents complete bleeding of the system. The replacement tube does not include the quick-connect feature.

To bleed system, proceed as follows:
1. Clean area around fluid reservoir cap, remove cap, then fill reservoir with suitable brake fluid.
2. Loosen bleed screw on slave cylinder and wait until a steady stream of fluid is expelled, then tighten screw.
3. Depress clutch pedal to floor, wait 1 to 2 seconds, then release pedal as rapidly as possible. Repeat approximately 10 times.
4. Check fluid level in reservoir and fill as required.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4, then reinstall reservoir cap.
6. Hold clutch pedal to floor, crack open bleed screw to allow any additional air to escape, then close screw and release clutch pedal. Check fluid level and adjust as necessary.
7. Start engine, then depress clutch pedal and shift transmission into Reverse gear. If gear clash occurs, repeat steps 3 through 6.

Do this and let me know what happens. Also, confirm for me if the slave was replaced. You indicated the master cylinder but not the slave.

Take care,
Joe

Good evening,

Just wanted to put my two cents in.

If you get all the air out, I have had the same issue. I found out after a lot of work that aftermarket clutches have disc that is too thick. What I mean is they are thicker than what was designed for from the factory. The result is the clutch will not disengage resulting in hard reverse and first gear engagement.

My resolution was to get a clutch from Ford and all was well. That's why I never use aftermarket clutches again.

Just my thoughts.

Happy New Year!

Roy

Yes, they will but going back to what I posted, all the aftermarkets sell the same clutch sets and Fords are the most touchy with the thickness of the disc. There is no adjustment for the pedal travel to make up for the thickness.

I found this on rockauto site under info.

The disc exceeds OEM specs. They add that so the clutch will last longer when in fact, it causes engagement issue with the gears

Each Clutch Kit includes the following:
O.E.M. Style cover assembly, computer tested for clamp load, plate lift, and finger height.
O.E.M. Style clutch disc with non-asbestos facings built to exceed O.E.M. Specifications
Clutch release bearing meeting or exceeding O.E.M. Specifications (unless otherwise noted in description).
Pilot bearing/bushing (where used).
Alignment tool for the perfect clutch installation (where used).
Hydraulic Line Disconnect Tool (where used).

Roy

With the slave cylinder inside the transmission, it is tough. It should react to the pedal as soon as you push the pedal.

You will need to get the new disc spec from Ford and then go to the parts store and measure the thickness of the replacement you are using..010 is enough for it to be an issue.

Roy

One thing you neglected to do as I read in your post was to replace the throwout bearing which is the slave cylinder.

Why did you not change that? This may be the entire issue.

Roy

No, there is only one for your truck.

You will need to replace the throwout bearing/slave cylinder. That is most likely the cause of the issue

Roy

Sounds like a plan.

Roy