Car will start but will not stay running

These codes all deal with throttle position sensor and throttle actuator control. One says stuck open and the other says stuck closed. Try cleaning throttle plate on both sides with choke cleaner. It may be due to you blowing engine up partly or throttle plate is binding or wired wrong somehow. See picture for causes. You might try erasing codes and see if it straightens out.

First, is your check engine light coming on? If so, that's the place to start. Have your computer scanned and get back with me with the codes. I'll help you from there. (AutoZone will do this for free)

If you believe you have gotten some bad gas, you could either let the tank run completely empty or put in a bottle of Heet with a full tank.

And your recent clutch replacement doesn't necessarily mean it's related to your current issue.

And honestly, yours doesn't sound like a fuel related issue. If it were poor gas, weak pump, clogged filter or bad injector, the engine wouldn't smooth out once you get up to speed. It would be even worse and probably refuse to accelerate. (A leaking FPR may make the engine run rough at idle but smooth out at speed)

You could check your plugs to see how each of your cylinders are firing. (Let your engine idle roughly for 5-10 minutes then pull the plugs. This'll tell you if one of the cylinders is misfiring)

The best thing to do is have a drivability test performed with a Ford scanner. This will completely open up all of the computers monitors. And a knowledgeable technician will be able to interpret the data and easily make a fix. But of course that won't be free like AutoZone.

Hello,

Does the security light flash while you are cranking the engine over? Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on? that would be great. You can upload it here with your response.

This guide will help us get started fixing it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

If there are no codes it sounds like the PCM is bad. When it shuts off can you turn the key off and then it starts again and does the same thing? Also can you here the fuel pump running when the engine stalls? If so I would try a used PCM here is the location and how to change it out. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Fuel pressure range is 35-55 psi so 40 is marginally good. The three second issue sounds like a PCM triggered shut down, what is the oil pressure with it running? Has anything been changed or added prior to the problem? Like a tune up or radio or anything like that? Still the original dash?

MAF being bad would usually cause it to revert to stored settings like it does when you unplugged it. However it could be shorted and dropping the 12 volt power out so the PCM shuts down to protect itself. You can check that with a voltmeter and a couple of connections. First go to the EVAP purge valve in the engine compartment, it should have light green with black stripe and red with yellow striped wires. Unplug it and probe the red w yellow wire. With the key on it should have battery voltage as it is a power feed for this and other components including the PCM. Plug the MAF in and see if the voltage drops. Next find the TPS on the throttle body, it should have Brown w white, Gray w white and a Gray w Red wires. With the MAF unplugged probe the Gray w Red wire. This is the sensor return AKA ground. It should have very close to zero volts on it with the key on, does it change when the MAF is plugged in?

MAF rate 0 g/s isn't a good sign. If you shut it off, then restart does that change? How about if you rev it up? If no or very marginal change it is likely a bad MAF.

You are welcome. Please return anytime with your automotive questions.

Any check engine light? All the linkage pieces still in working order? Nothing unhooked? Have you checked operation of the throttle body? Remove the air hose and check operation of the butterfly valve to verify it's actually moving? Any chance warranty is still active? Remember a lot of the emission parts are covered for like 8 yrs 80k miles I think. Not quite 100% on that figure.