Check engine light?

MIATA & PROTEGE 1.6L Loosen CKP sensor bolt. Using feeler gauge, adjust air gap between sensor and crankshaft sensor plate projections to .020-0.59" (0.5-1.5 mm). See Fig. 10 . Tighten CKP sensor bolt. If clearance is still not within specification, replace CKP sensor or sensor plate behind crankshaft pulley. Fig. 10: Identifying Crankshaft Position Sensor Air Gap Courtesy of MAZDA MOTORS CORP. IGNITION TIMING B2300, B2500, B3000, B4000 & TRIBUTE Engine is equipped with an electronic distributorless ignition system. Base (initial) timing is preset and is not adjustable. Inspection of timing is done through World Diagnostic System (WDS) scan tool or equivalent. Information is not available for this procedure from manufacturer. MIATA, MILLENIA, MPV & PROTEGE 1. Connect NGS scan tool to DLC-2 located under left side of instrument panel, right of steering column. See Fig. 12 . Connect a jumper wire between terminals TEN and GND at DLC-1 in engine compartment. See Fig. 13 . 2. Ensure idle speed is correct. See IDLE SPEED under IDLE SPEED & MIXTURE. On all models except Millenia 2.3L, connect timing light to high-tension lead No. 1. On Millenia 2.3L, connect Inductive Timing Light (49-T018-002) lead to ignition timing checking harness (Black/White wire) located next to engine compartment relay box. See Fig. 11 . Start engine and allow it to idle. Check timing. See IGNITION TIMING SPECIFICATIONS table. See Fig. 14 . Fig. 11: Identifying Ignition Timing Checking Harness
NOTE: Before adjusting or inspecting ignition timing, warm engine to normal operating temperature. Turn off all accessories. Place transmission in Neutral (M/T) or Park (A/T). Wait for cooling fan to stop. Ensure idle speed is correct. See IDLE SPEED under IDLE SPEED & MIXTURE. NOTE: New Generation Star (NGS) scan tool is used to perform following procedures. NOTE: On Millenia 2.3L, ignition timing is not adjustable. NOTE: Standard inductive timing light may not work on ignition timing checking harness. Recommend using manufacturers Inductive Timing Light (49-T018-002) or equivalent. 3. On all models except Millenia 2.5L, if ignition timing is not within specification, check CMP sensor, CKP sensor, TP sensor, ECT sensor and transmission range switch. See appropriate SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING article. If all sensors and switches are okay, replace PCM. 4. On Millenia 2.5L, if ignition timing is not within specification, loosen distributor lock bolt. Rotate distributor until timing marks align. Tighten lock bolt. Recheck timing. 626 1. Connect NGS scan tool to DLC-2 located under left side of instrument panel, left of steering column. See Fig. 12 . Ensure idle speed is correct. See IDLE SPEED & MIXTURE . 2. Connect timing light to high-tension lead No. 1 and check timing. See Fig. 14 . See IGNITION TIMING SPECIFICATIONS table. If ignition timing is not within specification, check CMP sensor, CKP sensor, TP sensor, ECT sensor, neutral switch, clutch switch and transmission range switch. See SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING - MIATA, MILLENIA, MPV, PROTEGE & 626 article. If all sensors and switches are okay, replace PCM.

It could well be an O2 sensor, but you need to do is have the computer scanned. What ever tripped your check engine light should be logged in memory. Our knowing what code(s) are retrieved will really help us isolate your problem. Auto Zone will do a scan for free as well as most other major parts stores. Let us know what you find out.

Remove the catalytic converter from the exhaust. If you can, insert a temporary section of pipe and test drive the vehicle. If the problem goes away, you have a plugged catalytic converter. If not, perform Merlin's repair and test.

Thanks for the info the_firstman_84

There's over a thousand potential diagnostic fault codes, and many that pertain to any one sensor circuit. Need to know the exact fault code number to know how to start diagnosing the problem. Be aware that fault codes never say to replace parts or that they're defective. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis. When a sensor is referenced in a code, that sensor is actually only bad about half of the time. It is just as likely there is a wiring problem related to that sensor.

Also, there's always a long list of conditions that must be met to set a fault code, and one of them is certain other codes can't already be set. The computers continually run a number of self-tests, and they compare various sensor readings and operating conditions to each other to determine when there's a problem. If there's a code related to a sensor that is used as a reference or for comparison to another sensor, the computer knows it can't rely on those readings so it suspends some of the tests it runs. Once the problem is solved and the fault codes are erased, the tests resume. THAT'S when a totally different problem may be detected for the first time and the Check Engine light may turn on again. You could have a completely different problem. That's why we need to know the code number. We also need to know the symptoms. There's a lot of things to check related to a fault code. Knowing the symptoms can shorten that list of suspects.

P1250 Mazda - Fuel pressure regulator control valve circuit fault.

Possible causes:

Faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Valve
Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Valve harness is open or shorted
Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Valve circuit poor electrical connection

P1569 MAZDA - VTCS Solenoid Valve Circuit Low Input

Possible causes:

Faulty Variable Tumble Control System (VTCS) Solenoid Valve
VTCS Solenoid Valve harness is open or shorted
VTCS Solenoid Valve circuit poor electrical connection

My experience has been wiring and connector terminal problems cause more electrical problems than the sensors and valves. These codes refer to detecting electrical circuit faults, not mechanical problems which are caused by valves. Also, when there are two codes referring to electrical problems, start by suspecting they have a common cause.

We do not get involved with costs here because there are way too many variables. We do not even know what is wrong yet, or how long it will take to find the causes of the problems or repair them.

Mazda- P1250 - Pressure regulator control solenoid circuit : Try a simple disconnect/reconnect to see if it is just corroded contacts. The solenoids do fail as well. Simple part to replace. Video showing the testing of a similar unit, but it is just as easy to just replace the valve.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucOq-83Hv2Y

Mazda- P1569 - Intake manifold air control - circuit low - this can take a bit more work to test. But again the first thing would be to check the connections because it is an older vehicle.

Cost of repair depends a lot on what is found during testing.

If the check engine light is on, there is a trouble code stored in the computer that will identify where the problem is coming from. What you need to do is have the computer scanned. Most nationally recognized parts stores will do it for free.

Have that done and let me know what you find.
Joe

Try replacing the gas cap, have the code removed. This may have comeon after you got gas. The cap has to tighten 3 clicks at least inorder to seal properly. Otherwis it's a big leak in the evap system.