Timing belt replacement problems?

Tiny
TIMFARR1
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1995 MAZDA PROTEGE
Engine Performance problem
1995 Mazda Protege Front Wheel Drive Automatic 202000 miles

How do I set timing marks for cam and crank to install timing belt
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
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What engine is this 1.5L or 1.8L


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_timing_alignment_1.jpg

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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TIMFARR1
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
1.5
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Above is for the 1.5Litre
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CMBAYE01
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 1995 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 83,000 MILES
I have a 95 mazad protege, 1.5L, about a year ago my alternater belt broke and my dad tried to fix it, we took it to a place and they fixed it, now about twice a month, one of my belts break, alternater, fan, every belt but the timing belt, no one can seem to find the problem, should I junk the car, it is a nice car for the year and really low miles, but I can sell it if its alway braking, I have a new alternater to, and that dident fix the problem, any ideas?
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

I would be finding a mechanic who will check the belt alignments correctly, also insist that the belts are not over tightened and the idler pulleys are in good condition, Have the alternator alignment inspected as well. This should be a simple fix and not worth selling the car over.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AUTON00B
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 MAZDA PROTEGE
I have a 1997 Mazda Protege LX, 4 cyl. 1.5L engine, about 151,000 miles. I am about to change the timing belt on it, and would like to know what all I need to get. I know I need the belt (of course), a water pump, and a tensioner and idler. Should I also get a camshaft seal or crankshaft seal or both? And what brands would you recommend, because I saw on DIY Auto that I could get a timing belt for under $30 dollars. Thanks a lot!
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
COSMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 347 POSTS
Well you will need a belt for one. Personally there are two things I don't cheap out on. Oil filter and timing belts. I would go to the dealer for the belt.

As for the tensioner. You will probably not need it or the idler. They are usually good, so I would hold off on buying that till you know if you need it.

You don't NEED a water pump to do the belt, but it is a good idea.

If you want to change the cam and crank seals. Go for it, but use MAZDA parts!

Oh and you will need a rocker cover gasket since you will need to remove the rocker cover.

I only stress using Mazda parts since the parts that you are changing. There is no need to cheap out on an engine part.

Cosmo. Mazda TEch

p.S. Don't stretch the spring!
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PETERB
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • MAZDA PROTEGE
My 1997 Mazda Protege (4 Cylinder/1.5 Engine) has 120K miles on it, and it is about due for the timing belt to be replaced. My question is: What kind of damage would or could be done to the car if the timing belt fails BEFORE I have it replaced? One mechanic told me it would cause no damage (but it would be inconvenient because I would have to have the car towed). Another mechanic told me it would cause major damage to other areas. Which is correct? Can I wait until the timing belt fails before I replace it?
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
I think the guy who told you major damge. But why risk it? According to the mait schedules, 60,000 mi except MASS and CAL these to require a check at 90,000 and replacement at 105,000!
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
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The 1.5 in not an interference engine, the 1.8 is. Yours will only leave you stranded.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WENDELL123
  • MEMBER
  • 23 POSTS
  • 1993 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,531 MILES
Should I replace the timing belt for that many miles looks like it has been replaced one time because water pump has been replaced that I can see because water pump mating surfaces has red permatex on it. And also how many miles can these engine go in a life time. And how do you change timing belt on 1.8 liter single overhead cam
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 2:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
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Just because water pump was replaced doesnt mean you know when it was. Would suggest replacing the timing belt with that many miles and as long as you keep up all the maintenance then engine could last many more miles to come.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 2:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAMIRVZW
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 1992 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 77,000 MILES
Ok heres my prob, I my head gasket blew, I took it upon myself to change it with help of the infamous misleading Haynes Manual. After finishing up with the head, I replaced the timing belt. Now when I start the car there is a loud knocking noise, almost as if the valve and pistons are hitting. However timing marks are accurate and timing was set on the compression stroke, everything appears to be in good shape, I'm scared to start the car again. I've checked everything over and over again. Also when I took the head off I took it to a local shop to get it plained and valve seals replaced, etc. When I got the head back the exhaust camshaft was broken, I took it back to the shop and they replaced it with a new one and that is where the noise seems to be coming from, but I might be wrong. Could anyone help? Riding a bike hasnt been working out for me. Thanks in advance
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 2:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
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It is also possible that the one or more of the exhaust valves may have been bent if the head was set down on the mating surface with the cams installed. Does the engine run rough when it is making the noise? Try rotating the engine by hand (plugs out) to see if it has any interference
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 2:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAMIRVZW
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It seems to work fine, and i've checked the compression, appears to be good. I've also taken the plugs out and I rotated the engine and no sound or interference.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 2:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
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If comp is good, then it may be a sticky valve or follower in the head. Might be looking at tear-down to find the problem
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 2:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAMIRVZW
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I was afraid of that, but since there is no interference, would it be bad to just drive the car? I know im asking a dumb question. And also no possibility of a diff camshaft being installed?
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 2:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
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Im wondering if the cam journals got mived up and the new cam is binding in the head or something to that effect. I cant condone driving it, unless you are ok with it. Lol
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 2:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAMIRVZW
  • MEMBER
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Ha, I figured out what it was, those caps that sit on top of valves and are pushed down by the camshaft, not sure what they are called, anyway they are either hydraulic or have springs in them and they are worn out. However it was your sticky valve suggestion that gave me the idea to take the camshafts back off. Thanks a lot man!
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 2:38 PM (Merged)

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