1992 Mazda 929 929 Will still not start

Tiny
SYLVSHOLL
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 MAZDA 929
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 70,000 MILES
I have follow the items you sugguested for me to check and change theone's that fail the tests. T
The car will still not start. Any more sugguestion?
Wednesday, December 9th, 2009 AT 3:08 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi sylvsholl,

You should have replied to your initial post so that whoever was attending to you can get back to you when notification is recieved.

That would also have all the data available for diagnostics.

After going through your post and previous replies, I am a little confused.

If you would like me to assist, I need to understand the situation better and would like you to update on the situation. Let me know the following.

1. What is the problem that you are facing now.
2. What has been done prior to it happening.
3. What you have done so far.
4. Any other information that you think migfht help.
5. What is the engine capacity.
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Thursday, December 10th, 2009 AT 12:59 AM
Tiny
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I did try to contracting the person helping me before but as you can see they stopped replying to my post.
1. What is the problem that you are facing now?
The car still will not start even after I checked items that were suggested before.
2. What has been done prior to it happening? Took the car out on a drive to keep the battery charge up. The car started to lose power when I got it back to the house it cut off. I knew the timing was not right so I thought that was the problem. I took the car back down replace the timing belt and set the cams to the correct marks. I started the car back up and it had a tick, tick sound on the right side of the engine. I later found out that I had two bad Hydraulic Lash Adjusters. I replaced those and put the car back together had a former Mazda mechanic looked at the timing and cams he said they were correct. All the valves that were suppose be open were open and the ones that were supposed to be closed were closed. The timing was correct but the car would start up and cut right back off or try to run for a little while then cut off. I have checked and replaced the fuel pump and filter retested it after I replace the fuel pump and filter and they are good. The following are example of what I have replaced so far. Battery, Distributor Cap, Ignition rotor, Ignition Coil, Spark Plugs Wires, Spark Plugs, Water Temperature Sensor in the crank case and by the heater inside the car. I've replaced the circuit relay for the fuel pump and the main circuit relay. The throttle sensor had been replaced and set. The ERG valve had been removed and checked for it being stuck open. I've checked the crank angle sensor and it check out good. The starter and alternator have both been rebuilding. The gas tank is over half full and the fuel is fresh. The spark plug wires are correct I went by the diagram from my all data program. I used a jumper wire to at the diagnostic center to check for trouble code found one it was for the cold start injector. I use the code diagram from the Mitchell 1 program. I replace the cold start injector with a use one but I ohms it out to make sure it was good. All drive belts are new as well. The o2 sensors have never been replace in the car and I have not check the fuel injectors yet. Compression test was good also.
3. What you have done so far. See above
4. Any other information that you think migfht help.
5. What is the engine capacity? 1992 Mazda 929 V6-3. OL DOHC Fuel Injector.
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Friday, December 11th, 2009 AT 8:24 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Sorry for the delay and I am not sure why my fellow technicians did not follow up with you after you replied. However there are many instances when notifications were not received, which I have personally encountered and happen to stumble upon them only when I was browsing through my post, which we seldom do due to the amount of questions we have to handle.

Let me confirm that I understand your problem correctly and I have some additional questions.

1. Engine can be started and it runs well but cuts off suddenly without any indication.
2. No trouble codes are present now.
3. You are mechanically versed with the vehicle and performs the job yourself.

A ) Does keeping the throttle slightly open keep the engine running?
B ) After engine stalled, were you able to restart, and was it easy?
C ) When engine is left cold, does it run for a longer time before it stalled?
D ) Is the engine cut off time predictable, eg after a few seconds or could be long or short time lapse?

When this occurs, it could be due to a bad ground, disconnected, shorted or wrongly plugged in sensor or faulty PCM.

Have you checked through all the wireharness connectors and grounding circuits?

If the power steering pump is equipped with a pressure sensor, check if the sensor wire is shorted or open and ensure you have sufficient power steering fluid in the system.

Check for vacumn leakages between the MAF and throtte body.
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Friday, December 11th, 2009 AT 2:25 PM
Tiny
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Let me confirm that I understand your problem correctly and I have some additional questions.

1. Engine can be started and it runs well but cuts off suddenly without any indication. No crank up cut back off.
2. No trouble codes are present now. No code are present now.
3. You are mechanically versed with the vehicle and performs the job yourself. Yes I'm am I work on car most of my life so far.

A ) Does keeping the throttle slightly open keep the engine running? No cut off.
B ) After engine stalled, were you able to restart, and was it easy? No will not restart in fact if I continue to start it will flood out.
C ) When engine is left cold, does it run for a longer time before it stalled? No the same every time start up cut right back off.
D ) Is the engine cut off time predictable, eg after a few seconds or could be long or short time lapse? The same everytime start up cut right back off.

When this occurs, it could be due to a bad ground, disconnected, shorted or wrongly plugged in sensor or faulty PCM.

Have you checked through all the wireharness connectors and grounding circuits? I have started checking all the wireharness and on the driver side kick panel there is two medium plugs below the parking brake is where I got a continuity on four of the wires. It was getting dark when I found them so I could not trace them out. I will do this Wednesday morning.

If the power steering pump is equipped with a pressure sensor, check if the sensor wire is shorted or open and ensure you have sufficient power steering fluid in the system. Check the prower streeling system it is full of fluid and the I did get continuity when I ohm it out.

Check for vacumn leakages between the MAF and throtte body. I check for vacuum lecks and could not find any.

Find a car repair manual for your Mazda 929 Repair Question.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2009 AT 6:12 PM
Tiny
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Starting and cutting off immediatley indicates a a fault with one of the electrical sensing circuits.

The easiest way would be to use diagnostic equipment to test the various sensors to locate which is not providing the correct signal.

Let me know if the checks on the wiring harness yield any results.
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Wednesday, December 16th, 2009 AT 8:06 AM

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