MAF sensor readings?

Resistance tells you nothing because of the way a MAF is made internally. All it tells you is that things are connected inside. That is why there are no published specifications other than the voltage response curve. What matters is the voltage signals from the temperature and MAF sensor sections. Those are measured with a scan tool or by back probing the MAF with it in operation. Then you look at the voltage curve and look for skewed readings or a bad curve or lack of one. In your case you should see about.5 volts at idle and about 1 volt at 3000 RPMs. That would be the voltage between pins 1 and 3 on the diagram for flow rate. For the air temperature it's easier, the scan tool will tell you the temperature of the air intake and ambient air, on a parked car they should be within a degree or two, if you see -40 the temporary sensor is broken or disconnected, +140 means it's shorted. What is the issue you are having? Any codes or CEL on?

Rough idle with a P0172 isn't likely the MAF unless it's skewed high. What are the voltages at the O2 sensor and what are the fuel trims doing? Do you have a scan tool handy?

A scan tool would tell you a lot more than any other testing. As for back probe testing, you use a needle or a kit like in the image, they are very thin probes that go between the insulation and the seal with no damage. Unfortunately, these days even simple repairs need a scan tool that can read live data at a minimum.
Something like this would work and give you the ability to deal with most issues for a long time.

https://www.topdon.us/collections/diagnostic-tools/products/artidiag-pro

No rush. One quick test you can try, on some cars you can unplug the MAF, and the computer will substitute data for it. If it suddenly runs better, it might be a sign of the MAF being an issue, but it could also cause it to not run at all.

Yeah you can drive it disconnected, but if you noticed no change at idle then it's probably not the MAF causing the erratic idle. It could be a dirty throttle body; they get built up with crud and can cause airflow issues that the idle control will try to compensate for.
Was the odd idle before the injectors and pump?

Try a snap test, get it warm and slip your foot off the gas and let it snap shut. If the engine shuts down, then take a look at the throttle body. The stalling while stopping could be that. The initial start sounds like it could be as well, a small vacuum leak might as well.

No rush we will be here.

Okay, it's adding fuel StFt but overall pulling 10% Was the B1 O2 changing as it should (Normally they run from just above zero to one volt and switch back and forth. If it is staying at.76 then it is still running rich. Try this, watch the fuel trims (graph them if possible) Now at idle pump the brakes a few times, this will simulate a large vacuum leak, the B1 should drop down to almost zero and a moment later so should B2. The engine should chuggle but not shut off. If the O2 still stays high then it has a problem. I would also do an oil change. If the engine had a bad injector it would have added fuel to the oil, as the engine warms up that fuel vapor would go through the PCV and cause it to think it is running rich and pull fuel away.

Okay, it sounds like that side of the system is working as far as the O2 sensors not being stuck. It still sounds like it's running rich though. Long shot but you might want to check the EVAP purge valve. If it is stuck partly open it could be pulling in fuel vapor.