I am not Chevrolet guy, but I would rather be driving your vehicle than anything newer with all the unnecessary, complicated, unreliable computers. I miss my 1988 Grand Caravan with its simple, clean engine computer. That van was so rusty, the carpet was the only thing holding the front and rear together!
The first thing is to measure the battery voltage. Your new generator has a better chance of failing than one that has been working fine for a long time, so do not overlook that. Battery voltage must be close to 12.6 volts. If it is around 12.2 volts, it is good, but discharged. Charge it at a slow rate with a portable charger for a couple of hours, then try to start the engine.
If you find the battery measures around 11 volts or less, it has a bad cell and must be replaced.
If you get the engine started, measure the battery voltage again while it is running. You must find between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. If it is low, we'll need to diagnose the charging system. Up through the 1986 model year, GM had the world's second-best generator. They are easy to diagnose and repair. The 1987 and newer redesigned version is by far the worst design ever.
If the engine still does not crank after charging the battery, first try to rotate the crankshaft by hand to verify the engine is not seized. If you hear a rapid clicking from the starter solenoid, we will need to go right down there and measure the voltage at the starter. Before we get that involved, a valuable clue can be found by observing what happens to the brightness of the head lights or interior lights during the attempted cranking. If they get real dim or go out, suspect a bad battery cable or connection. But not the ground cable where it is bolted to the engine. The lights do not use that circuit.
GM likes to use the large "battery" stud on the starter solenoid as a convenient tie point for other circuits, to save wire. Therefore, a bad connection or cable in that positive cable will affect the lights too.
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Sunday, August 27th, 2017 AT 2:20 AM
