Ignition key and lock tumbler replacement instructions - key is stuck

Here are the instruction on how to change out the ignition lock and key cylinder. You will need to get the parts from the dealer so they can programm the new unit to your car. Please bring your VIN number. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Hello, I am Danny.

I found this article relating to your vehicle if it is equipped with the Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS) and have attached a picture. It was available as a factory installed option. Since you have changed the column and have a new key(s) it needs to be programmed with a DRBIII scan tool. Hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions.
Danny-

Just so I understand this, the ignition is not turning all the way in either direction but the key still comes out? If so, it sounds like this ignition switch has failed and needs replaced. If I understand this correctly, I attached the process of how to do this.

Let me know if I got this wrong. If so, maybe get a video of the issue so we can see what is happening. Thanks

Hello Andrew.

It sounds like you may need a new ignition switch, however there is a cheap trick you can try first. this guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ignition-switch-wont-turn-stuck

Use some TRI-FLO (with Teflon) to liberally flush the lock of any lint, dirt and debris, then follow with a lubricant like Lock-Shot by Starttec. Run your key in and out vigorously to work out any dirt and work in the lube. Now try turning the ignition. Repeat all steps several times (1. flush, 2. lube, 3. massage tumblers with key, 4. attempt to turn lock...). If this does not help then your key may be slightly bent or worn out? It is a good idea to see a locksmith and have them make a new key if your key does look bent or worn. If neither of these help then the ignition switch will probably require removal and service by a locksmith. (most dealers simply remove and replace it at a much HIGHER rate than a locksmith would charge, so I suggest locksmith first if possible)

If you think you can tackle on the replacement job yourself, I can guide you through it with some step by step procedures. Just let me know.

Thanks for using 2carpros.com! I hope I have helped.

Hello,

The switch must be timed correctly so it can be assembled. If you have troubles please take a video of the trouble so I can see whats going on, upload it to the site here.

Here is the compete guide on how to change the switch out.

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers, Ken

IGNITION SWITCH
Removal
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Turn ignition switch in RUN position. Through hole in lower shroud, depress retaining tab and remove lock cylinder. See Fig. 6.

2. Remove upper and lower column shrouds from column. Disconnect ignition switch harness connector. Using a Torx bit, remove ignition switch mounting screw. Depress retaining tabs and pull ignition switch from steering column. See Fig. 7 and Fig. 8.

Installation
Ensure ignition switch and actuator shaft are in RUN position. Carefully install ignition switch. Switch will snap over the retaining tabs. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.

I suspect you have two possible issues. First does sound like a weak battery. So I would charge it or replace it. It that solves the starting issue then you are good to go. If it doesn't then you are going to need an ignition switch. However, I suspect you have both as an issue.

I included the process for removing the steering column. That is how you get the ignition switch out (step 25). You may be able to get to it with completely removing the column but I think this is a vehicle that it does need to be removed. It has been a while since I did one so I can't remember.

Probably a defective ignition switch, based on your dandy description. It's a common failure item, but not for this symptom. I was surprised by a recent post where the person said the switch took care of his problem, and it was under 50 bucks.

Replacing the switch isn't hard if you can follow the directions in the service manual. You'll need to release the lock cylinder and put it into the new switch. It's much harder to describe than to do. The switch is held in with three tamper-proof torx screws, so you'll need a special screwdriver bit. The Snapon, Matco, Mac, and Cornwell tool truck guys can supply those.

With the right tools at hand, the job takes about 20 minutes.

The lock cylinder should be inspected too. There is a round cam on the end, about 5/8" in diameter. When the cam cracks, it doesn't turn the ignition switch far enough. The very common symptom is the dash lights come on like normal but the starter won't crank the engine. It might crank if you turn the switch real hard, but you risk breaking the key. If this is the cause, the engine should turn off if you run the switch all the way back to the Accessory position. There is a repair kit available to replace just the broken cam.

When it doesn't turn off as expected, observe if the radio display is still on. If it is off, the ignition switch moved far enough that the engine should be off too, so suspect a defective switch. Here are the instructions in the diagrams below to show you how to replace the ignition switch. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

If you can turn the key this is what you can do
Removal
Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.
Turn ignition on.
Using hole in lower shroud, depress lock cylinder retaining tab.
Remove key cylinder.

Installation
A tab on ignition switch aligns with a notch in lock cylinder housing. A slot in end of ignition switch fits over shaft in end of lock cylinder housing.
Use ignition key to rotate lock cylinder to align ignition switch with lock cylinder housing.

Disconnect the battery
place key in run position
through the hole in lower shroud depress retaining tab
remove lock cylinder