Engine bogs and will not accelerate?

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check fuel pressure with a gauge should be 41-47 psi any lower replace pump. Key on only also check for a vacuum leak even though it looks fairly well. Finally, disconnect converter and see if runs better, may be partially plugged exhaust behind converter.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
APACHE20
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Fuel pressure is 42 psi.
Vacuum tested - steady @ 19hg when revved drops slightly then climbs to 24hg.
Ran w/o muffler and no change cat is new replaced because old one was gutted causing o2 sensors to have identical reading which causes improper fuel mixture.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Are you sure there are no codes like a trans slipping etc? Check cam to crank sensor synchronization that could be off. Course you'll need a pro style scanner for that. Other than that I can't think of anything else unless a cam has jumped time or not advancing like it should.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CJJORGE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1997 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 186,000 MILES
Have a 97 chevy s10. Replaced plugs, wires, cat, muffler, and o2 sensor (after cat). Have a problem when driving on the highway in fifth gear. When I have it in fifth it has no power I start to drop in speed when I put the pedal down harder it feels like it could be flooding up. I have to drop it back into fourth gear to get any power and speed up. I get nothing out of fifth gear. What could cause this. It has a rough idle as well. 1997 chevy s10 ls 2.2L
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
What is the fuel pressure?

Roy
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CJJORGE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Fuel pressure is between 41 and 47 psi
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MECHANICOO1
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1997 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 127,000 MILES
When I am driving down the freeway at about 60mph my car starts to have a little vibration on floorboard and a somewhat loud noise to it and my floor board heats up what could the problem be. Ive already had my transmisson serviced and nothing seemed to be the problem and I have spent 1600$ dollars on fixing it since ive bought in in october of 2009. And also when I drive it boggs out when it wants to and then shuts off and I cant seem to find the problem.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Hello,

Sounds like the Cat. Which floor board gets hot?

.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MECHANICOO1
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Both floorboards get hot but mostly driver side.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MECHANICOO1
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
=, mechanic001]
both floorboards get hot but mostly driver side. And my car is getting worse at dying and bogging out
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Does it have Dual Exhaust? If so could be both are going bad. With driver side the worst of the two.

A test to check you can remove the O2 (oxygen sensor) Sensor in front of cat or cats and see how it does. If improves replace cat or cats.

.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
S10DW
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
  • 1997 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 225,235 MILES
Also, the CAT convert has been out for 3 or so years and engine worked fine up to this point. I also had it scan before changing all the parts listed and they were: PO121, PO122, PO171, PO172, PO300, PO404, PO405, PO420 and PI1404, that's why I started changing out parts.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
With all these codes and reding your last post check the fuel pressure with a gauge. You should have 41-47 psi if it's below that replace the fuel pump and filter. If this is a pickup it's easier to remove the box ot of theway to do it. If you have 3 guys you can lift the box by hand. Then clear all the codes and see what you have next. If you have a k&n type air cleaner clean the maf as these filters tend to put oil on the maf and screw all your readings up. Also make sure your battery is in good shape as this will also screw up al your readings. But if the fuel pressure is low fix the pump first then clear all codes and startover.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
One thing I forgot check for vacuum leaks on hoses, etc.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
S10DW
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
I'll check the fuel pressure and as far as I can tell all the vacuum lines are okay but one thing that I am concerned about is the TBS area behind the TBS is an open space to the left side that I noticed after installing the new one. I checked the manaual and nothing is noted. Is there suppose to be a gasket to cover that open area or is that just the way it is? I did not check it before I removed it but it came off as one piece. Thanks for your help!
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
You mean the tps, not tbs and it should be unless it's leaking vacuum.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
S10DW
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Sorry for the delay to respond back but I had a mechanic check the engine out and he found lifter's on cylinder 1 were bad so he replace all lifters. The engine ran but it kept idleing off. He checked the pcm and it showed tps, he cleared the codes and tested it again and the tps showed up again. He unpluged the tps and it ran okay. I had installed a new tps before the engine work. I took the new-old one back and replaced it with a new AC Delco model and the engine runs good but at times some hesitation. I know the engine has over 200,000 miles but it just don't have the power it had before things started going wrong while still in the high milage numbers. When driving down the interstate at 65 now and I come up on an incline the truck slows down instead of keeping the speed. I also still hear more vacume noise from the engine when accelarating than when all my engine problems started. There has to be something that I've missed or am not aware of that can fix this problem. Any thoughts will help. I'm also thinking that instead of a vacume leak that one of the vacume lines might be clogged. I cleaned the air pliemun and used carburator clean at the vacume ports on top of the air pliemum. I did not disconnect the lines thou. I did install a new set of fuel injectors and gas requlator. I finished filling the tank up with new gas, 14 gallons to a 18 gallon tank. The mechanic did not think it was the gas pump so that has not been changed. I can go on and on but I'm searching for an answer with out having to pay another arm and leg for a almost complete repair, thanks again and just maybe you have the answer or someone you know might have had this same problem and has the solution. Thanks again for your time and help!
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,874 POSTS
Hi,

When you say you hear a vacuum sound louder than before the work was done, where does the sound come from? Is it under the hood or in the vehicle? An engine vacuum leak will usually cause a rough idle or stalling issue, but the power loss is questionable.

Also, a vacuum leak will usually cause a check engine light indicating a lean fuel mixture. Has the check engine light turned on again or are there any known codes?

Here is a link that explains how to locate a vacuum leak. I would try it since you are hearing a sound. Also, make sure nothing between the air filter box and throttle body is loose or disconnected causing a leak.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 3:36 PM

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