Engine bogs and will not accelerate?

Hi,

Is the check engine light staying on when the engine is running? If it is, we need to start by checking for diagnostic trouble codes. Here is a quick video showing how that is done:

https://youtu.be/b2IJGfImVvw

If there is no light staying on, then it could be a few different things. For example, low fuel pressure, an engine vacuum leak, a partially plugged catalytic converter. Here is a link that shows how to check for a vacuum leak. Try this first.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

If there are no leaks, then I would suggest checking fuel pressure. Here is a link for that:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

If that is good, then inspect/check the catalytic converter. Here is a link that shows how to do that as well. In addition, I attached a link explaining the common symptoms of a converter issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions. Also, let me know if the engine is back firing, producing an odd odor, have an odd sound, or anything you can think of that may help me diagnose the issue.

Take care,
Joe

Hi,

Absolutely. There wasn't enough vacuum to maintain airflow direction, so you have a leak at some point.

This is from the manual:
Mode Control

The mode rotary control knob operates a rotary vacuum switch that rotates engine vacuum to specific hoses in the vacuum harness. These hoses control various vacuum actuators on the HVAC system. Each actuator operates an air valve (a door-like hinged deflector) that routes the air to the various outlets as indicated by the symbols on the faceplate.

Try using the link above for locating a leak. Let me know what you find. Also, I attached a pic below of the mode door actuator. It's mounted on the heater box/module.

Joe

Hi,

Yes, there could be a blown fuse. Take a test light and see if there is power to pin 16 in the data link connector (DLC). If there is, then I need you to confirm ground with a multimeter. You will set it to ohms and see if there is continuity to a known good ground location. See pic 1

Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

If you look at pic 2, it shows that power to pin 16 on the DLC comes from the same power supply as the cigarette lighter. Pic 3 shows the fuse location. In addition to just checking the fuse, make sure there is power to and from it. Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe

Hi,

The codes you listed, are they P codes? For example, P0141.

As far as the EGR, it's on the rear of the engine. See the attached picture.

Let me know.
Joe

Hi,

Yep, that makes perfect sense. Thanks for letting me know. I don't know if you need them, but here are the directions for replacing the chain and sprockets. The attached pics correlate with the directions. I honestly would replace the sprockets and tensioner while it's apart.

___________________________________________________

1998 Chevy Truck S10/T10 P/U 2WD L4-2.2L VIN 4
Timing Chain & Sprocket Replace
Vehicle Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods Camshaft Gear/Sprocket Service and Repair Removal and Replacement Timing Chain & Sprocket Replace
TIMING CHAIN & SPROCKET REPLACE
REMOVAL PROCEDURE

Tools Required
- J 22888 - 20 Crankshaft Gear Remover

pic 1

1. Remove the engine front cover.

NOTICE: When using the crankshaft balancer bolt to rotate the engine, install sufficient spacers on the bolt to prevent the bolt from going to far in the crankshaft and damaging the threads of the bolt.

IMPORTANT: Make sure the camshaft sprocket alignment mark, which is an 8 mm hole, and the stamped circle in the crankshaft sprocket align with tabs on the timing chain tensioner.

2. Rotate the crankshaft until the number 1 piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.

Pic 2

3. Remove the camshaft timing chain tensioner bolts.

Pic 3

4. Remove the camshaft timing chain, tensioner and camshaft sprocket at the same time.

Pic 4

5. Use the J 22888 - 20 in order to remove the crankshaft sprocket.
6. Remove the crankshaft sprocket key, if necessary.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

Tools Required
- J 5590 Crankshaft Gear Installer

IMPORTANT: If any of the camshaft drive components are being replaced to correct a noise condition, replace all of the components in the camshaft drive system.

Pic 5

1. Install the crankshaft sprocket key, if removed.
2. Install the crankshaft sprocket with the timing mark facing away from the engine, using J 5590 and a hammer.
Make sure that the crankshaft sprocket is seated against the crankshaft.

Pic 6

3. Compress the timing chain tensioner spring.
4. Insert a cotter pin or a nail into the hole in the tensioner in order to retain the timing chain tensioner shoe.

Pic 7

IMPORTANT: Do not tighten the timing chain tensioner bolts.

5. Install the timing chain tensioner.

Pic 8

6. Align the crankshaft sprocket timing mark, the stamped circle, with the tab on the timing chain tensioner.
7. Align the camshaft sprocket timing mark, the 8 mm hole, with the tab on the timing chain tensioner.
8. Install the camshaft sprocket and the timing chain.

NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

9. Install the camshaft sprocket bolt.
9.1. Tighten the timing chain tensioner bolts to 24 Nm (17 ft. Lbs.).
9.2. Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 130 Nm (96 ft. Lbs.).

Pic 9

10. Remove the cotter pin or nail from the hole in the timing chain tensioner.
11. Install the engine front cover.

________________________________________________

I hope this helps. Let me know how things turn out for you or if you need help.

Take care,
Joe

The squealing leads me to believe something has locked up and the belt is slipping (which could cause a power loss), so check that all accessories are turning when the engine is running. Always protect your eyes in case something breaks. Next, the PO420 deals with catalytic converter. Check to make sure it is not plugged. That will cause a huge power loss. The PO440 is an evap code. I don't think that has anything to do with a power loss. However, you should have the evap system fogged to determine where there is a leak. The PO1133 is a code for the heated O2 sensor. The interesting thing about this is it could have set the PO420. Last, the PO1404 is dealing with the EGR (closed pintle position).

So where do we start. First, remove the EGR and clean all carbon from the valve itself and make sure the ports in the intake that where it bolts are open and not clogged with carbon. See if that makes a difference in power. Next, you need a scanner that will read live information. You need to check the O2 sensors while they are working. They should show between.35 volts and.55 volts. If they are beyond that in either direction, they need replaced. If they are good, then the catalytic converter is most likely bad. You can try disconnecting the cat to see if the power is restored. If it is, the converter is spent. It will be a loud ride to test, but if you have no scanner, that is one way to check.

It sounds like you found it. A couple ideas for you to keep in mind. First, if by any chance you still have the receipt for the converter you purchased, call the parts store. Often times they come with a 5 year 50K mileage warranty. You may get lucky and it may be free to replace. Next, when you remove the converter, check to make sure it didn't plug up the muffler. It happens often. Also, if you are removing the Y pipe, you have to remove both sides for it to move. If you plan to remove the exhaust manifold, be careful not to break any bolts. Spray them with penetrating oil a few times and let them sit so it can work. You don't want to break one. If you spray them, clean the manifold off with brake cleaner to get all the lubericant off before running the engine again.

See, I can be wordy too. Sorry mine is so long. I look forward to hearing what you find.

PS: Don't worry about the post being too long. I need to hear everything.