Loses power over 15 mph

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Sometimes a sparkplug will function perfect at idle but when at higher speed it starts to breakdown such as incorrect heat range/deposits/wide gaps

Get that looked at and the other areas I've mentioned.
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Saturday, April 13th, 2019 AT 2:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KIRCH1734
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 FORD RANGER
I have a 1999 ford ranger with 162,000 miles and in the last week when I go up hills and it wants more power to get to the top the check engine light blinks and it feels like it wants to stall but when I get to the top and level out the light stops blinking and it runs fine I had it checked and they said the only code is the #1 cylender is not firing I just change the plugs and wires 2 months ago could that plug or wire be bad already and would that cylender not fire make the truck do that on hills if you can simplifiy this for me I would greatly appriciate it
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Saturday, April 13th, 2019 AT 2:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RUDPRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 224 POSTS
Yes, that would definately make it run bad. Make sure the plug wire is on the distributor cap and the spark plug correctly. Take a look inside the wire at both ends and make sure the connector is not damaged. You should fell that little click when putting the wire on the distributor and spark plug. Buy a spark tester, they're cheap and plug it in the wire to check for spark at the plug. Also, check the spark plug for any hairlne cracks in the porcelain.
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Saturday, April 13th, 2019 AT 2:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
Welcome back:

I have to be honest, I don't feel it is a plug wire. Interestingly, in your video there was no backfire after it started running again. If it was a loss of spark, I feel you would have a backfire when the spark returned because the injectors would still be fueling the engine. With that, my next suspect is a camshaft position sensor. I asked your location because the CA emissions ones don't have the sensor. I attached a picture of it. If fuel pressure is good (however you need to confirm what is leaking on the regulator), it seems that something is shutting down injection. That is why leads me to the sensor. The cam sensor on this vehicle signals the ignition module for ignition timing. If I recall correctly, if there is no signal, the injector pulse is lost, too.

I attached two pics. One is location of the cam sensor and the second a portion of a wiring schematic. Locate the sensor and confirm proper connection, eliminate any corrosion, and make sure the pins in the connector are not damaged.

Again, in your video, the engine basically seemed to shut down and then pick back up again. That isn't a loose plug wire.
___________________

You are starting to get a lot of feedback from people. If you have the chance, check the sensor and let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, April 13th, 2019 AT 6:25 PM
Tiny
D1DAWG
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  • 17 POSTS
Ok thank you @joeandnickolas I'll definitely check for a cam sensor I do remember unpluging anything like that on my head or the new head I put on so I will have to see but right now it is raining here an I tested the icm and it is working fine according to the testing
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Saturday, April 13th, 2019 AT 7:31 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Welcome back:

Sounds like a plan. Let me know what you find. Also, am I correct in saying the engine shuts down for a second or two before it starts picking back up?

Joe
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Saturday, April 13th, 2019 AT 8:37 PM
Tiny
D1DAWG
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Yes you are correct. If I push in the clutch it will come right back to idle but if I just let it do it's thing it will do as you seen it's like it is hitting a spark cut or fuel cut. I have been around cars all my life and I have never seen anything like it. I work at a auto resto and my boss has no idea why it's doing it or what is causing it. He is the one that helped me swap head and he has been in the car business all of his life. So I'm dumb found I really do appreciate everything you guys have suggested, but I can't afford to keep dumping money into the truck.
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Saturday, April 13th, 2019 AT 8:48 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,560 POSTS
When you check the fuel pressure I would also take it for a drive where you know it will cut out. See if it changes. Unplug the regulator and plug the vacuum line, start the engine, any fuel showing on the regulator vacuum connection?
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Sunday, April 14th, 2019 AT 4:57 AM
Tiny
D1DAWG
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  • 17 POSTS
I'll try that also if I can't find a camshaft position sensor but I still able no way to test fuel pressure. I'm going to get a new regulator from my grandpa he ordered one when I told him about what it was doing.
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Sunday, April 14th, 2019 AT 5:50 AM
Tiny
D1DAWG
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
So there wasn't a cam shaft sensor there it's just the distro dummy shaft, but I did notice that my alternator wire was loose and for some reason it drained the battery overnight which I haven't had any problem like that since I bought the truck.
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Sunday, April 14th, 2019 AT 11:26 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
Have you repaired the alt wire? Did that make any difference?
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Sunday, April 14th, 2019 AT 1:10 PM
Tiny
D1DAWG
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Yeah, I repaired it but apparently the alternator is shot, so now the truck won't say running for more then ten minutes before it drains the battery.
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Sunday, April 14th, 2019 AT 1:11 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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You know, I wonder if that was the problem the entire time. I'm not sure why it is draining the battery unless a diode is bad or there is a short. Do me a favor. Follow these directions for testing for a battery drain. Check with the alt attached and then disconnected to see if that is the source of the draw.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Crazier things have happened. Maybe low voltage was the problem the entire time.

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, April 14th, 2019 AT 3:16 PM
Tiny
D1DAWG
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It was not the alternator, but I did cut the catalytic converter off and you can hear it pop when the truck comes back to life. So does that mean something to do with spark?
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Tuesday, April 16th, 2019 AT 11:10 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Welcome back:

It could be either. If you have a popping, it is an indicator that ignition is starting to occur. If it loads up with fuel, I feel you would hear a backfire.
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Tuesday, April 16th, 2019 AT 3:39 PM
Tiny
D1DAWG
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  • 17 POSTS
Well it's not my problem anymore. My boss had sold me the truck on payments and since it didn't want to run right he took it back and fired me.
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Tuesday, April 16th, 2019 AT 4:36 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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That's a harsh form of treatment. Sorry about that.
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Wednesday, April 17th, 2019 AT 8:07 AM
Tiny
D1DAWG
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  • 17 POSTS
Oh I'll be taking him to court. I had paid him $2,000.00 put of $3,000.00 for the truck. But I really believe it was the CKP being miss aligned or something like that because it was a slight back fire when it would come back to life.
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Wednesday, April 17th, 2019 AT 8:16 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Good luck. When you get things straightened out we'll be here.
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Wednesday, April 17th, 2019 AT 5:54 PM

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