Windshield Wipers not working correctly

This will sound crazy, but your wipers operate through the BCM (Body control module) and the multifunction switch (steering column). Powered by two micro relays under the hood in the power distribution center, then to the wiper control module, any of theses, except maybe the relays, could be the cause! A test with a Chrysler DRB III tool is needed to find out if a module, or the motor, or switch is at fault. My money is on the wiper motor park switch, inside the motor, but test first!
Operation; the front wiper module operation is controlled by the battery current inputs received by the wiper motor from the wiper on/off and wiper high/low relays. The wiper motor speed is controlled by current flow to either the low speed or the high speed set of brushes. The park switch is a single pole, single throw, momentary switch within the wiper motor that is mechanically actuated by the wiper motor transmission components. The park switch alternately closes the wiper park switch sense circuit to ground or to battery current, depending upon the position of the wipers on the glass. This feature allows the motor to complete its current wipe cycle after the wiper system has been turned off, and to park the wiper blades in the lowest portion of the wipe pattern. The automatic resetting circuit breaker protects the motor from overloads. The wiper motor crank arm, the two wiper linkage members, and the two wiper pivots mechanically convert the rotary output of the wiper motor to the back and forth wiping motion of the wiper arms and blades on the glass.

Heres a guide on testing wiring and relays

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Wiring diagrams for your wipers are attached below

That is really a crazy coincidence, you will need to check the fuse/relay for the wipers. I believe it is a relay. Because if it was the motor, you would still hear the clicking of the relay.

Do you mean the problem is now fixed? Yeah shops never want to take blame for anything, even if you see it happen. They will still try to find some way to say it was not them.

I don't have a testing procedure on this. The porblem lies in one of three likely areas. The switch, the intermittant wiper controller or the motor.

The switches on the late model chyslers were having a problem like this. Having said that I have also seen the intermitant wiper controller be the bigger source. The controllers are very common on the GMs.

The exception to this is if the windsheild has been replaced with the wrong one, the rain sensor will pick up an incorrect refraction of light. This is a long shot.

Good morning.

The logic you are talking about is part of the switch.

In most cases, the motor itself is the failure. I attached a wire diagram for you to view. Check the wires to the motor when in lower positions. You know it works on high. If you have power it is the motor. If it does not have power it is either wiring between the switch and motor or the switch itself.

Roy

With everything working when put on accessories, I would look at the ignition switch. But first check all the wires around the fuse box and check the fuses. I would think there is a ground problem. Accept that they work with the accessories turned on. The heater, wipers and signal lights they are on separate circuits. Check the wires from the ignition switch to the fuse box. Check the fuse for the wipers. Use a tester to see if it is getting current with hey on position and then turn the key to accessories and see if the test light comes on. If the light does not come on in the on position and does in the accessories position then I would look at the ignition switch.

Two things to look at. First, turn the switch to the "low" or "high" position; not an intermittent setting. Now push on the wiper motor to see if it starts running. Alternately, check for the presence of 12 volts on the metal case of the wiper motor. Be sure your meter's negative probe or your test light's ground clip is on the battery's negative post or on the engine, not on the plate the motor is bolted to.

If you find 12 volts or the motor starts to run, add a jumper wire from the motor to the body.