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Head gasket?

Tiny
BILL ROSMUS
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD MUSTANG
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
I have some oil in the coolant overflow. The car was overheating but turns out this was because the fan motor was burnt out, which I figured out when it almost overheated in a traffic slowdown on a road trip. Stopped and when the slowed down cleared driving at highway speed the temperature stayed very good. Just replaced fan motor today (drove one long highway trip back home, two hundred and fifty miles, and a few short in town trips before replacing fan motor). The highway driving back was good since highway speed air flow through the radiator; and the temperature was fine all the way back except the little bit of city driving. Analog temperature gauge. I change the oil and drained and refilled the rad before driving back and the changed the oil. There was no white gunk on the inside of the oil filter cap before or now. I do smell oil as I drove the short trips including today to the parts store to get the fan motor. Coolant seems to be lower, and some oil in it, but does not seem to be a lot. Engine power sends to be fine, no hesitation or roughness. The dirty coolant freaked me out. By the way, before I drained and refilled there was about an eighth to a quarter inch of it in the overflow. Thoughts? Advice? I am thinking head gasket but could it be the block? Help!
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Monday, August 14th, 2017 AT 2:46 PM

33 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
A much better suspect is transmission fluid in the coolant. Check if the transmission cooler is built into your radiator. A few vehicles use a separate transmission cooler mounted in front of the radiator, but it has always been standard practice to build them into the radiator. If the tube carrying the transmission fluid through the radiator corrodes through, you will get those two fluids mixing. The transmission fluid will turn pink and may be foamy. Transmission fluid in the cooling system will rot rubber hoses from the inside.
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Monday, August 14th, 2017 AT 5:23 PM
Tiny
BILL ROSMUS
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
You know, someone just told me that the transmission cooler on these is built into the radiator. And the transmission fluid does look pink, but not foamy. Maybe a small leak. The transmission has been suspect lately too. Any suggestion on fixes, or what type of shop for diagnostic?
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Monday, August 14th, 2017 AT 6:50 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
Basically we go by the symptoms, but if the leak is bad enough, you can remove the transmission cooler lines at the radiator, then use a cooling system pressure tester at the radiator cap. If you see the pressure drop slowly, watch for coolant or transmission fluid coming out of the transmission cooler ports.

My concern would be more for the transmission. Antifreeze in the engine oil will melt the soft outer layer of the engine bearings and cause them to to tear apart. Automatic transmissions have bushings that are made of the same type of soft metal so little chunks of debris will embed in them rather than spin around and chew up other metal parts. I would assume those bushings would be damaged by antifreeze too. Normally I only recommend a drain and fill for transmission service, but this is one time where a flush might be a better value. For the cooling system, I do not think I would be quite as concerned. It is not a big deal to flush the system yourself with a garden hose. If you do have to replace the radiator, that is a perfect time to do a flush.
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Monday, August 14th, 2017 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
BILL ROSMUS
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I get it, remove the transmission coolant lines so that the transmission cooler part of the rad is open to atmosphere. If the pressure test fails, it means it is leaking out to the transmission lines (assuming the rad is not leaking too :) ). Now I would do that, but I live in a condo, so they would freak if I did that level of work here. But now I know what to ask when I take to a mechanic. I suspect you might be right. I had to flush the transmission a little while ago because it was doing weird downshifts on its own. And new transmission fluid seemed to help, but it is getting a bit goofy again. Chances are I might need a new transmission. The fact I do not need a new head gasket is good. Needing a new transmission. Might get them to give me a rebuilt standard instead. We will see.

In the meantime, I flushed the coolant before I saw your first reply. If I see any goop on top of that, I will take it as a bad sign. Will take it in to get the pressure test this week though. Thanks.
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Monday, August 14th, 2017 AT 7:32 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,648 POSTS
Please let us know what happens so it will help others :)

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, August 17th, 2017 AT 1:33 PM
Tiny
BILL ROSMUS
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
One thing I would like to do first before taking it to a mechanic, is to remove the coolant reservoir and wash it out so any oily/sludgy residue is gone. Then flush and fill it with clean coolant and observe for a week. Will almost certainly take it for a pressure test anyway.

The problem I have now is to figure out how the bottom of the reservoir is attached to the car. I got the top bolt off but it is tough to see how it attaches on the bottom without having a lift or jack and stands. Can anyone tell me how it is attached on the bottom?
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Thursday, August 17th, 2017 AT 6:29 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
Take a look at the pic in my link.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-oe-solutions-coolant-reservoir-603-329/11578028-P?searchTerm=coolant+reservoir#

Below the larger pic, click on the 3rd little pic. (It becomes the big pic).

Hovering over it will magnify a portion of the pic.

At the bottom of the reservoir it appears to have a cushion and an 'upside down' 'shark's dorsal fin. I do not see any other fastener and I suspect the dorsal fin sorta just sits/ locates/ dowels/ indexes into a slot to prevent movement. Removal would be to remove the fastener up top and simply pull it up!

Should you need anything, now or in the future, this may help.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-dodge-neon-milage-just-want-put-fliuds-their-locations

Keep us posted with progress.

The Medic
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Thursday, August 17th, 2017 AT 7:08 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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I don't remove them when flushing the system. I go in the reservoir with a pressure washer wand to loosen the gunk. When I'm done with flushing the rest of the system, I pull the hose off at the radiator neck, and let it hang down as far as possible. I add water from the garden hose, and cover the opening with my hand if necessary, then the water flowing out the hose will siphon the reservoir empty. I add water faster at first to make it overflow and let the oil float out.

For the flush, there is always about a half gallon of water left in the block after it has been drained. I refill the system with a gallon of straight antifreeze, then a gallon of straight water, alternating until the radiator is full. Run the engine until it is warm and the coolant is circulating. Once it is mixed, test the freeze point. Since the reservoir was drained and is still empty, you can add water or antifreeze to bring the freeze point close to minus 35 degrees.
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Friday, August 18th, 2017 AT 9:57 PM
Tiny
BILL ROSMUS
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I live in a condo. No option for a hose or pressure washer unfortunately. Would be nice to be in a house but the cheapest around here are well over a million dollars. In the whole city. No stand alone house is cheaper. So have to remove and take upstairs. Any more than this I need a mechanic because even this much mechanical work risks busy bodies complaining.
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Friday, August 18th, 2017 AT 10:46 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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You might consider looking for a nearby community college with an Automotive program. We were always looking for live work to give the kids real-world experience, and we had about a dozen community members who would sit on a broken car until it fit what we were teaching because they knew the value these projects had for us.

Our students were very responsible and well-supervised. We charged ten bucks per hour for what the job was supposed to take. The downside is you have to wait until what you need fits the subject being studied, otherwise it would take work away from the shops that hired our graduates. Also, you may have to leave the car for days, or come back at an appointed time. My students were with me four hours per day, but part of that time was spent in the classroom.

This job would be part of a cooling system flush, which would have been part of my Engine Repair class. We would do this for the people I mentioned who were regular / repeat customers. The instructor might not take this on if he thinks he will never see you again, because it really doesn't provide a lot of learning experience. He might be more interested in having a student diagnose the original problem, and have him clean the reservoir as an additional task.
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Friday, August 18th, 2017 AT 11:18 PM
Tiny
IMPERFECTANGEL13
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1999 FORD MUSTANG
  • 120,000 MILES
My aunt gave me her 1999 Ford Mustang Saturday. She told me that there was a blown head gasket. Knowing that it had set for 2 years, untouched, I took my battery from my other car and put it in the mustang. It acted like it wanted to start, but just would not. Now, I'm having trouble finding out where to get parts and how much it will cost to be replaced. Like I said above, it wouldn't start, and a guy at one auto body shop told me he couldn't replace JUST the head gasket, he would have to replace the whole engine. So I need to know, if that is true; And approximately how much it would cost to fix the problem.
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2020 AT 9:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Dunno the cost of repairs due to it varies with location-

If its cranking over and will not start-check the fuel pressure and also for spark-start here-also refer to this link for more information:https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2020 AT 9:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IMPERFECTANGEL13
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Okay thanks. My dad also said the oil was kinda milky? What does that mean?
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2020 AT 9:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
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If its milky have it block and pressure tested-to rule out a blown headgasket, cracked head or block
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2020 AT 9:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IMPERFECTANGEL13
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  • 4 POSTS
Okay and this guy that works at a auto body place, he said that he couldn't replace the gasket he could only replace the whole engine? Is that necessarily true?
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2020 AT 9:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Go somewhere else and get a 2nd opinion
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2020 AT 9:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IMPERFECTANGEL13
  • MEMBER
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Okay, thank you so much for your help.
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2020 AT 9:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LIZBROWN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 FORD MUSTANG
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 181,000 MILES
I've been told by a couple of Ford Techs that the cost of repairing the head gasket on my Mustang would be more than the car is worth. I can't afford a new one, nor can I afford the high cost to repair the part in a shop. If I have a trusted family member, with decades of mechanical experience, do the repairs would it be beneficial or would I be wasting my (and my family member's) time?
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2020 AT 9:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
Ok the gasket set should cost about $274.00. Now if this family member has good experence with cars there is now reason why without the help of a good manual Chilton or Haynes and what ever help I can provide that you can't do this. Now as for the repair being worth more then car that is depended on how much you like you car. I have a 98 Mustang V-6 with about 250hp's and a pro charger planned for the future to put this V-6 at 500 hp and I get about 25 mpg in town and about 32 on the highway. I have done some performance mods already so if you ask me the car it totaly worth it but I am a Ford guy and really enjoy my Mustang. If I can help or you have any questions while doing the repairs just ask.
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2020 AT 9:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FIREPROGOOSE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 FORD MUSTANG
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 157,000 MILES
Do you have a list of steps I can follow to replace the haed gaskets on a 98 mustang, 3.8L V6
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2020 AT 9:04 AM (Merged)

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