Intermittent engine stall at idle

2011 TOYOTA PICKUP
150,000 MILES • 2.5L • 4 CYL • TURBO • 4WD • MANUAL
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PAUL N BARROS
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  • 2 POSTS
I converted the pickup from 1KD 3.0L to 2KD 2.5L engine as well as the electrical system of the entire pickup. Before starting the pickup there would not be any active code, but after starting at between five to seven minutes it stalls and a little while thereafter the crank sensor P0335 codes pops up. I replaced it with a new crank sensor which is exactly the same as the old one. I am still experiencing the same problem.
May 27, 2018 at 12:52 AM
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STEVE W.
  • AUTOMOTIVE REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
  • 15,146 POSTS
P0335 means the ECU is not seeing a crank signal. But it is a circuit error, AKA most likely a bad/broken wire in the harness between the sensor and the ECU. I would start at the sensor connector and trace the wires. Check the connector itself as they can have a corroded wire inside that you will not see until you take them apart. As you move along the wire look for scrapes/pinholes or cuts. Also pull on the wire between your fingers with them say six inches apart and look at the insulation. You are looking for any spot that narrows or looks like an hourglass as you pull.
That is one of the fun parts of swaps. You can pull a great running engine, swap everything over and now it does not run. Beat your head against the wall and then discover one wire that was okay until it was moved.
May 28, 2018 at 2:57 PM
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PAUL N BARROS
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Thanks for your prompt and quick response, however the entire electrical harness is replaced to 2KD brand new along with the ECU as well as the crank sensor. Before starting up the engine with the intelligent tester tool connected it present no DTC codes until the engine is started and run for about three to six minutes, then the engine stalls and after a little while the DTC P0335 pops up.
May 29, 2018 at 2:43 AM
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STEVE W.
  • AUTOMOTIVE REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
  • 15,146 POSTS
That could still be a bad wire/connection. It was made by man so even new can be suspect, especially with the quality of "new" that is out there these days. I cannot count how many brand new parts did not work or failed within a few moments of being installed.
It sounds like it is heat sensitive part. Normally I would suspect the crank sensor but you have changed that and it still does it. The harness is the next place to look, a wire that is hitting the exhaust or a sharp spot on the engine or is pinched between parts could act this way.
It is also possible that the ECU itself has a marginal component in it that is getting hot and failing. If your scan tool shows live data you could watch the crank signal and engine temperature along with attaching a scope to the crank sensor. Run it until it shuts down and see if the crank sensor signal goes away before that happens.
May 29, 2018 at 8:24 AM