Inner and outer tie rod specs needed?

Here's the factory specs out of the service manual, but they are likely to not help you. With original manufacturer parts, the torque was adjusted on the inner tie rod to produce a specific amount of force needed to swivel the inner joint. You needed a fish scale to measure that. As you tightened the assembly to the steering gear, it compressed a spring-loaded plate that put pressure on the ball within the socket. More tightness equaled more twisting force needed to make it move.

Aftermarket replacement inner tie rod ends were of the more common design where that swiveling torque was preset at the factory, and it wasn't affected by how tight you made it to the steering gear. As such, they always came with a sheet of instructions that included the new torque specs.

You also have to consider you can't always just turn something with a torque wrench. With some designs you need to use a crow's foot wrench with the ratchet extension hole off to the side. Other replacement designs have a pair of "flats" on the back side of the housing where you install the correct size wrench with two tabs that lock into a special socket. You can use a torque wrench with that style. If you need the offset crow's foot, there will often be a separate set of torque specs designed to use with that tool.

I don't like to admit this, but often we just went by common sense when tightening the inner tie rod ends. This is less critical when there's a hex set screw to tighten or a round lip that you crimp over to prevent the end from coming loose.

I can't find a torque spec for the outer tie rod's nut. Here again, look for the spec on the instruction sheet and go by that. If it came with a castle nut and cotter pin, I can try to find the spec for some other model with a similar size stud. There are generic torque specs depending on the stud diameter, then, once you reach that, you continue tightening just enough to line the slots in the nut with the hole in the stud. Never back the nut off to line up the hole.

I'm happy to know you understand the importance of torque specs. If I left you with more confusion, let me know and I'll see what else I can come up with.

I did find something online about 47 to 51 foot-pounds for the outer castle nut, not to exceed 80 foot-pounds to line up the cotter pin hole. That seems rather high to me for such a small diameter stud, so use your common sense.

Just found another post where the fellow found 65 foot-pounds for the inner tie rod, and you're supposed to use blue thread lock.

Sorry it took so long for me to dig out of the snow. Holler back if you need more info.