Inline spark testing

Ken I searched on camshaft lobe inspection and some videos came up about removing valve cover and simply watching the lifter rods/ticker arms working. I did this originally thinking I had a bad lifter. All of my rocking arms are moving up/down and are very tight to the touch.

Let me know how to inspect with flashlight.

Ken or Joe

I have read the thread again and I caught something Joe asked me. He asked me about crankshaft position sensor. I did replace the cam position sensor, but not the crankshaft sensor. Also I do not know what a reluctor wheel is so have not looked at it either.

Thanks Ken

Also, can you clarify what and how I check the cam from the valve area?

Okay, I purchased a crank sensor today.
Also I found this video that is really cool that explained it well. I am excited that this could be it!

Could you watch from 19:55 to 20:59 when he referenced “air gap”? Just curious how to adjust the air gap?

https://youtu.be/ws59zXvr1SM

Okay, thanks.

Will I be able to do a crank relearn myself following written instructions?

I do not have the tool to initiate a relearn process via the PCM.

Today I replaced the sensor. I do not have a lift so I was on my back a lot. That was fun but I have a whole new respect for mechanics. I looked at the connector and it appeared okay, but I could not test it since batter ground was disconnected. The grounds on tip of starter were also checked as well as I re taped all wiring really good. I used a AZ Duralast sensor because the store did not have a ACDelco in stock.

I did crank it and let it idle. After a few minutes the check engine light started flashing but when I read the codes it was a P0300 code only. I am hoping the sensor has not relearned since I did not drive it.

I just took a shower and am about to go drive the vehicle. Below is a procedure I found online but do not know if it is true. I have also heard to do the same steps you do with a Tech II scanner except you just will not see the ECM confirm it completed?

Procedure without scan tool:

1. Turn off all of the accessories.
With the Air temperature sensor and
Coolant temperature within 5 degrees
(Centigrade) of each other, start the
engine and let it idle in Park or
Neutral for two minutes.
2. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 mph at
part throttle. Cruise at 55 mph for 8-
10 minutes until the engine reaches
operating temperature.
3. Cruise at 55 mph for another 5-6
minutes.
4. Decelerate to 45 mph without
using the brakes, and maintain 45
mph for 1 minute.
5. Perform 4 deceleration cycles,
without using the brakes, of 25
seconds each where no specific
speed is necessary. Returning to 45
mph for 15 seconds in between
deceleration cycles.
6. Accelerate to 55 mph and cruise
for 2 minutes.
7. Stop the vehicle and idle for 2
minutes with the brake applied and
the transmission in Drive (automatic
trans.) Or Neutral (manual trans.)
with the clutch depressed. Refer to
diagram A on page 8.

Well I first performed the drive procedure but at idle it still misfires. I then found a rural mechanic and offered him $40.00 to do the relearn. He has a SnapOn scanner and did it fast. While we sat in vehicle we talked and he was really cool about helping. His ear could pick up a noise I could not detect. He said it sounded like a lifter is worn out. Even though I told him the rockers are moving he indicated with all I have done to it the only explanation left is valves not opening enough causing bad mixtures. He said he could hear the lifter noise and after he taught me what to hone in on I could hear it also.

Lesson learned for anyone reading this is do not assume lifters are good just because the rocker arms are moving up down.

Ken, short of taking off the heads to replace lifters I would be glad to keep trying anything you recommend? This mechanic mentioned something about a test that measures how much the valves are opening but I forgot the name of tool? Let me know and I may try to do that test.

I have decided I am going to pull the heads, clean the valves and top of pistons, lap the valves with either the wooden lapping tool, or with drill and 1/8 vacuum tube, and install new lifters.

It will be my first time ever but looks like fun. I have watched several zero (0) lash setting videos and will do it per attached link below.

https://youtu.be/5EGlb_VpTAw

Ken is is best to reuse all valves, rods, rockers, springs, on my vehicle or get new ones? I would rather reuse them if they are good.

Thanks for information Ken.

I will definitely inspect everything very well. Can you tell me how to test springs? I will search YouTube but if you have information please share.

I promise to share what I find and will take pictures and or video.

Okay, a valve spring tester appears to be expensive for myself since I will not use it often. I was told by a friend to send my heads to a machine shop and they will return it will cleaned valves and assembled. He told me it is about $100.00 a head. Not sure if I will do that but if they can test the springs for me then maybe.

I likely will get new springs and push rods. Would you agree that rockers are likely okay to reuse?

Ken can you give me your approval for below parts from Rock Auto. Am I getting the right stuff for my 2004 Tahoe 5.3L Z Flex Fuel.

ECK1567 - CAM and Lifter Kit
ERV3598 - Valve Spring Set
MPR614 - Push Rods

I plan to reuse rockers and valves if in good shape.

It likely does not matter but I do not understand why the vendor (ENGINETECH) makes the CAM, Lifters, Springs, Rockers, and valves, but do not make push rods? Strange!

Thanks Ken. I will do video and pictures. However, I may wait until after Christmas when I get my bonus check.

I am going with new head bolts but not sure if I need first or second design bolt kit.
I will dig deeper.