Cranks does not start, immobilizer

Tiny
DTBUTNOTDONALD
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 2
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 62,000 MILES
After reading on this same site " security reset please " I have come to the conclusion my problem is not that complicated, but I do think the vehicle has become immobilized. The main problem is it will not start but it does crank. I have not checked it for spark yet. Important : The vehicle has not moved since the last time it was started about four months ago. The battery drains down so I charge it up again. My main question first is, does taking the positive and negative battery cables off somehow enable the immobilizer? I have done it before and it has not happened after recharging from an AC source with extension cord. I do not see how the crankshaft sensor could go bad just sitting in the driveway. I still think it it has become immobilized. The key fob batteries are good.
Any ideas?
Richard
Tuesday, December 12th, 2017 AT 6:18 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,572 POSTS
Letting the battery go dead could arm the immobilizer. So could removing the cables.

To disarm the system you follow this procedure using the emergency key access code. The code is recorded on the security information card and is entered using the listed procedure. If you don't know the EKA code you will need to have a dealer get it for you after you provide proof of ownership of the vehicle.

Using the key, turn the driver's door lock to the UNLOCK position and hold in this position for at least 5 seconds. An audible warning is then emitted to indicate that the body control unit is ready to accept the code. Return the key to the center position. It is now possible to use the key to enter the separate numerical values of the four digits that make up the EKA code.

Enter the first digit of the code. If the first digit is a 4, you would turn the key to the UNLOCK position and back to the center 4 times. If it was a 5 you would turn the key to UNLOCK and back to center 5 times.

Enter the second digit of the code using the same procedure.

Enter the third digit of the code using the same procedure.

Enter the fourth digit of the code using the same procedure.

After the fourth digit is entered turn the key to the UNLOCK position and back to the center position.
A double horn bleep will indicate that the code has been entered correctly. A single bleep indicates that the code has been entered incorrectly.

Once you hear the double tone, wait 5 minutes for the alarm and immobilizer to be de-activated. During the 5 minute wait for the alarm and immobilizer to be de-activated, the alarm indicator LED in the dash continues to flash (one flash every 2 seconds).
DO NOT OPEN THE DOOR OR ATTEMPT TO ENTER THE CAR until the full five minute delay period has elapsed.

When the 5 minute wait has elapsed, the alarm indicator LED should stop flashing. Immediately open the door, insert the key in the ignition switch and turn the switch to position II (NOT START). If the ignition switch is not turned to position II within 30 seconds of the end of the 5 minute wait, the engine is immobilized again.

The EKA code will not be recognized if there is await of 10 seconds or more between key turns or if the key is held in a turned position for 5 seconds or more during the procedure.

If an incorrect code is entered, an audible warning is emitted and the procedure must be repeated. A maximum of 10 attempts to enter the code is allowed. After 10 attempts, the Body Control Unit will not allow any further codes to be entered for a period of 10 minutes.
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Friday, December 15th, 2017 AT 10:23 AM
Tiny
DTBUTNOTDONALD
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Seriously, thanks very much for the reply. It is helpfull. But, I forgot to ask another related question. In my original question I mentioned that the 2001 Land Rover Discovery II would crank after the battery cables were taken off and put back with the battery charged up from an AC charger. But, " cranks but doesn't start ", does that mean, in fact, this is the way the Land Rover acts when it is immobilzed??
OR, does it just not even crank? I'm just trying to eliminate the cause before I tackle the door - key - fob - sequence fix of turning the key which I do understand. In other words, I want to make sure it is in fact the immobilizer before I start the job of replacing the crankshaft sensor which could be another likely problem. Also, lastly, I am sure the plug wires, the plugs, and the coil packs are all good. It was started and ran fine last April and has not been started or moved since. I'm hoping, and I think, this isn't really complicated or a big issue at all. Thank you very much. 12/15/2017

Richard
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Friday, December 15th, 2017 AT 11:48 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,572 POSTS
The immobilizer shuts down the fuel and will still let it crank. So it could be that it is active. Not a guarantee but this is a good first step if it is.
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Friday, December 15th, 2017 AT 12:49 PM
Tiny
DTBUTNOTDONALD
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Ok, that also helps because I was in the dark about what system the immobilizer shuts down. The fuel or the spark ( ignition ) or both. Now that I know it's only a fuel - shut - off - action, that makes sense because I checked one plug wire and it was definitely sparking. And, I also noticed that I could not hear the audible two second electric pump sound from the driver's seat. The vehicle is on about a 25 - 30 degree forward incline in a back driveway but the fuel gauge reads between 1/4 to 1/2 so I don't think that should be an issue here. As far as getting fuel up there to the engine. Just crossing my fingers that this ain't - no - fuel - pump - replacement - job ahead of me.
Thanks again and if you have anything else you may think I need to know I sure don't mind.
I liked working on cars better back in the 60's and 70's, haa.
Richard
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Saturday, December 16th, 2017 AT 3:48 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
If you do need a fuel pump its not too bad in your car becasue you have a trap door. Here is a guide to show you what you are in for when changing the pump out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Here is how it will be for your car

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers, Ken
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Sunday, December 17th, 2017 AT 6:45 PM

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