Ignition distributor?

Tiny
THOMAS OCALLAGHAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1988 FORD F-250
  • 4.9L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 100,000 MILES
I removed it without marking first where it goes. (I did take pictures though) The roll pin broke on the cog wheel, so I replaced it.
I reinstalled the ignition many times, turning the balancer to TDC. I finally got it to run when I turned the distributor excessively up. It worked like it did before, but I drove it to the next town and my truck lost power, and I resorted to down shifting. It also overheated. I waited over night to fill the water reservoir. Nothing leaks under the truck.
It still starts but has no power to move. Do I need a new ignition distributor?
Sunday, November 3rd, 2024 AT 12:59 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 672 POSTS
Hello,
Do you have a timing light? You will need one to adjust the timing correctly. If not you can pick one up at a Harbor Freight for around $30. I will copy the timing adjustment instructions below. You will need to locate the SPOUT connector/plug next to the distributor. It will look like a wire harness with something plugged in it that goes nowhere. Unplug this and then start the truck and let it get warm. Then loosen the distributor hold-down screw and turn the distributor to 10TBDC. This should be clear once you have a timing light shining on it.

INITIAL TIMING
- Place transmission in NEUTRAL or PARK with Air Conditioner/Heater in OFF position.
Cylinder Numbering And Distributor Location
- Connect an inductive timing light.
- Disconnect the single wire in-line Spark Output (SPOUT) connector or remove the shorting bar from the double wire SPOUT connector near the distributor.
- Start engine and allow to reach operating temperature.
- With engine at timing rpm, check or adjust initial timing to specification.
- Reconnect single wire in-line spout connector or reinstall the shorting bar on the double wire spout connector.
- Check timing advance to verify distributor is advancing beyond the initial setting. See: Ignition Timing > Testing and Inspection
- Remove test instruments.

Let us know how it goes,
William
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Sunday, November 3rd, 2024 AT 8:10 PM
Tiny
THOMAS OCALLAGHAN
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
It's a pattern now. I did everything you said twice. I even though the ignition distributor screw might become loose but it's tight.
Everything runs fine when I drive but I go to park (turn off) and drive again the rpm is struggling before I change gear.
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Monday, November 4th, 2024 AT 10:49 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
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Hello,

If the timing is correct, I would move on to checking the vacuum pressure. Do you have a vacuum gauge? You can also check by spraying starting fluid lightly around the intake hoses and watch for a response from the engine.

William
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Monday, November 4th, 2024 AT 11:04 AM
Tiny
THOMAS OCALLAGHAN
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
What I'm saying is, I've got the distributor twisted so far it doesn't have much more turn in it before it's blocked from turning by the motor.
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Monday, November 4th, 2024 AT 11:07 AM
Tiny
THOMAS OCALLAGHAN
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Okay, I'll try.
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Monday, November 4th, 2024 AT 11:08 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
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Okay, I understand you. It sounds like you need to take out the distributor and rotate 180 degrees.

William
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Monday, November 4th, 2024 AT 11:09 AM
Tiny
THOMAS OCALLAGHAN
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
When placing the ignition distributor back in place I've been turning the rotor pointing to the #1 piston and it usually slides 30° resting pointing directly at the motor. (Just between the #3 and #4 piston) That would be my #1 wire position in general. But,
the original place of #1 wire was 180° in the opposite direction. And I've been lifting and turning the rotor 180° already. It's the only way it would start.
So, I'm pretty sure I got that part right. But I heard if I place the ignition distributor with the rotor pointing 30° directly at the #1 piston then turn the balancer till the rotor drops in place doesn't that move me off TDC? And when it does. Does it matter it's no longer at 0° when wiring the distributor?
I'm sorry I'm such a pain I had to learn all this from trial and error. Thank you for helping me. I'm a homeless veteran. This truck is my home and I'm stuck in a Walmart parking lot doing this.
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Monday, November 4th, 2024 AT 1:01 PM
Tiny
THOMAS OCALLAGHAN
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Basically what you're saying is, lift the ignition distributor up, turn the rotor pointing 180° in the opposite direction, and put it back down. Without turning the balancer to 0° TDC, right?
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Monday, November 4th, 2024 AT 1:15 PM
Tiny
THOMAS OCALLAGHAN
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
When placing the ignition distributor back in place I've been turning the rotor pointing to the #1 piston and it usually slides 30° resting pointing directly at the motor. (Just between the #3 and #4 piston) That would be my #1 wire position in general. But,
the original place of #1 wire was 180° in the opposite direction. And I've been lifting and turning the rotor 180° already. It's the only way it would start.
So, I'm pretty sure I got that part right. But I heard if I place the ignition distributor with the rotor pointing 30° directly at the #1 piston then turn the balancer till the rotor drops in place doesn't that move me off TDC? And when it does. Does it matter it's no longer at 0° when wiring the distributor?
I'm sorry I'm such a pain I had to learn all this from trial and error. Thank you for helping me. I'm a homeless veteran. This truck is my home, and I'm stuck in a Walmart parking lot doing this.
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Monday, November 4th, 2024 AT 1:38 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
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Let's start with the engine at TDC. This way the #1 cylinder will be at the top of its travel. With the distributor cap off, the rotor should be pointing at cylinder #1. I attached a diagram of your configuration for your reference. If it is not pointing at cylinder #1 then turn the distributor to match and turn the engine over twice and recheck. Once it lines up correctly you can put it back together.

Now, the important part about changing the timing. Remove the SPOUT connector before starting the truck. This is not optional. With the SPOUT connector removed, start the truck and use a timing light to check the timing. Loosen the distributor bolt and turn the distributor until you see the line revealed by the timing light on the crank pulley line up with 10BTDC. Tighten the distributor bolt and turn off the truck. Now, install the SPOUT connector and start the truck again and test drive.

Let's see how it goes,
William
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Monday, November 4th, 2024 AT 3:56 PM
Tiny
THOMAS OCALLAGHAN
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Just a quick question. What would make the roll pin keep breaking? It's the second time I replaced it.
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Monday, November 4th, 2024 AT 5:07 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
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That's not a good sign and could be part of the problem. If there are issues with the oil pump shaft going into the distributor it can easily shear off the pin because of the extra load. If this is a new distributor and you keep putting pins in it, I would inspect the pump / shaft. Turn the distributor upside down and look inside the bottom where the oil pump shaft will go. Is it completely clean? Also, when tightening down the distributor the gear does not need to bottom out in the engine, this can also cause more torque on the pin. Outside of looking at the distributor side the oil pump would have to be fished out once the oil pan is off.

William
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Monday, November 4th, 2024 AT 6:06 PM
Tiny
THOMAS OCALLAGHAN
  • MEMBER
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I want to thank you for everything. I ordered a new ignition distributor and coil. They'll be here in a week. But my truck is running better than ever now. I've added a video but it's at night.
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Wednesday, November 6th, 2024 AT 2:19 PM
Tiny
THOMAS OCALLAGHAN
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
How do I properly thank you?
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Wednesday, November 6th, 2024 AT 2:22 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
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I'm glad to hear it is doing better. Please let us know how it turns out with the new parts. Tell a friend, and thank you for using 2carpros. You're welcome here anytime.

William
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Wednesday, November 6th, 2024 AT 2:55 PM

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