Loses power while driving

If you have a throttle sensor issue then we should have some codes so let's start there.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

If there are no codes then we need to test the fuel pressure while this is happening. Here is a guide that will help with this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Just hook up the gauge and then tape it to the windshield so that you can watch it when this is happening.

Here is a guide that helps with this issue but I am not sure this quite fits but let's start with all this and we can go from there. Thanks

If you have to turn the key a few times then it starts, that is a weak fuel pump. You can install a one way check valve but that is most likely going to only prolong the issue. This pump will fail eventually and leave you stranded. If you have the check valve then it will hold the pressure from the last time is was running and then unless the vehicle is running when the pump actually fails, you will not know if until you start the vehicle and it just doesn't start.

I did not provide one of the guides I referred to earlier so here it is in case others need it:

https://youtu.be/U1RoG3I-Oww

If it were me, I would not mess with the one way valve or filter and just cycle the key a few times to start and then make plans to replace the pump again.

Hi guys. KASEKENNY1, I think you were right to suggest checking fuel pressure, but a leaking check valve in the pump assembly is the last thing on the list of suspects. A leaking injector is much more common. There's a fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail. Pop a gauge on there and you should find around 45 - 50 psi while the engine is running. When stopped, a leaking injector will bleed fuel pressure off in an hour to overnight.

The second-most-likely cause is a leaking fuel pressure regulator, also on the fuel rail, but Chrysler has had very little trouble with theirs. To identify that, use a hose pinch-off pliers to pinch the smaller of the two rubber hoses where they cross over from the right strut tower to the engine. If pressure still bleeds down, pinch the larger supply hose. If pressure still bleeds down, it is due to one of the injectors.

If you find fuel pressure drops while driving, and that's when the loss of power occurs, the best suspect is the strainer on the bottom of the fuel pump housing, especially if that pressure drops off rather slowly. A clue is it will pop back up to normal when you lift the accelerator pedal for an instant. That strainer used to be a replaceable item that snapped onto the bottom of the housing, but in 2005, that is built into the assembly. When you replaced the pump a year ago, if you transplanted a new pump and motor into the old housing, you likely didn't get a new strainer. You'd have to replace the entire assembly that includes the new strainer.

The first time this happened to me on my '88 Grand Caravan, it acted up on the hottest day of summer, and the next day, then not again for over six months. The strainer became plugged at 220,000 miles and caused stalling when the highest volume of fuel is being pumped, which is during coasting. At highway speed the engine ran fine. Had the same problem at 400,000 miles. Replaced the rusty gas tank at that time, but another new strainer is what solved the loss of power. Took me a year and a half of driving around with the fuel pressure gauge tied to the radio antenna, and then it only acted up while dragging a tandem-axle enclosed trailer that's bigger than that van. By watching the fuel pressure slowly drop to 20 psi, then lifting the accelerator pedal, I was able to easily nurse it home 55 miles that way. The sputtering didn't occur until pressure got down to 15 psi, but most engines will have symptoms long before fuel pressure drops that far.

If there's no test port on the fuel rail, you have to decouple the supply hose from it, then insert a "tee" to attach the gauge to. Knowing what's happening to fuel pressure might save a real lot of time and frustration.

You misunderstood my comment about the strainer. It is item # 1 in this drawing. If you replaced this entire housing assembly a year ago, you got the new strainer with it.

You could have replaced just the pump and motor instead. The housing must be taken apart to put the new pump in it. Many of the better replacement pumps come with a new strainer, but you have to change it separately. If you didn't get a new strainer or didn't replace it, that plugging problem is still a possibility. Symptoms don't occur all the time. Mine started out only in really hot weather, which you'd think wouldn't be a factor. After those first two days, it took six months before it became an almost daily problem.

When you replace the entire assembly, meaning housing, float and level sensor, etc, it comes with the strainer already. Some of the newer models have that strainer inside the housing where you can't easily see it.

Regardless, I led you down the wrong path with the strainer issue. I'll go sit in the corner and wait to see what the solution is.