Engine Running Hot

Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,302 POSTS
First and foremost read the trouble code, this will help me assist you.

Also, when you are at idle, does your cooling fan come on? Anytime your vehicle is overheating the fan should turn on, if it doesn't you have a problem with either the fan itself, relay, fan switch, etc.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BTONY86
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The radiator was installed around Jan 08, and the water pump, timing belt, and thermostats were installed in May 2008. And yes, I do hear the fans click on when I'm idle. Now the check engine light is tricky. It doesn't come on and stay on and every time I go to get it checked the light is never on to get a reading (must terrible timing or something).
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BTONY86
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The code that popped up was 9. I looked it up and was surprised that 9 referred to the distributor. Is this correct? I would be surprised if it was the distributor because I just got a brand new distributor installed last September.

And to update with the radiator situation. I brought and installed a new radiator cap a few weeks ago and haven't had the problems with the radiator needle since. It now never goes past midway.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,302 POSTS
CYP- cylinder position sensor


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/276698_CYP_1_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/276698_CYP_2_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/276698_CYP_3_1.jpg

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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ALWAYSLEARY
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 1993 HONDA CIVIC
Ok, more about my Honda. I have another question up which explains the problem I am having with my coolant system. My head gasket was done three times and on the third time the mechanic put stop leak in the system.
Ok, new part of story begins here:

After the mechanic put stop leak in the system I had changed the radiator, but even when backflushing the new radiator I noticed stop leak pellets coming out. My heater core is pretty clogged also. Here lies the main problem.

When using my car to make long trips it seems that an air pocket builds up in the coolant system around the fan sensor. The fan comes on late and the car runs hot until I bleed the system using the piss valve on top of the engine near the top radiator hose.

When the car has this blockage of air the upper and lower radiator hoses are mushy, even though the car is running hot and should have plenty of pressure. My radiator cap is good and working. After I bleed the system of air and the car cools down the coolant system pulls the coolant it needs in from the overflow tank.

When I restart the car I notice that the upper and lower radiator hoses are hard and not mushy and the car runs fine and my temp gauge doesn't go over 1/3 of the way up. When my car is running correctly the temp gauge never moves. It always stays at 1/3 of the way up.

Does this sound like another problem besides the head gasket going again?
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,754 POSTS
Anytime you get that much air in to the system, you have one of two problems. You either have a leak which allows air to be sucked in to the cooling system OR you have a crack in the block/bad head gasket/bad head that is blowing air in to the cooling system. Once a CLOSED system is bled, it is now void of air.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ALWAYSLEARY
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 1993 HONDA CIVIC
My car had its head gasket done three times. The first two times the morons who fixed it didn't include new head bolts with the job and the head was always a little loose until the third time they fixed it when they included new head bolts. They also put STOP LEAK in the coolant system. (IDIOTS)
Problem:
I have to run the car with the heat on to give additional cooling to the antifreeze since I believe the radiator is partially blocked and so is the heater core. I had someone do a backflush, but not a power flush, just using a hose and we saw STOP LEAK pellets come out.

When I drive the car long distances the car starts to build up air pockets in the coolant system which build up around the fan sensor is. This makes the fan come on late and the car runs hot until I use the bleeder valve to clear out the air pocket.
I notice that when the car runs hot with an air pocket that the hoses are mushy, but when I clear the air pocket the hoses are hard and the car runs fine. I can't afford to keep putting money into the car. What should I do with it besides junk it?
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,754 POSTS
Before the car overheats and you end up putting on a new head, I would replace the radiator. Putting new head bolts in is really not as important as using the proper torque. The problem they probably had was not planing the head or doing it properly AND not using the proper torque on the head bolts. Get the radiator out of the system and flush the cooling system real good. Remember that there are two radiators on the car. The second one is called the heater core and it needs to be flushed as well.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRANDYE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 HONDA CIVIC
1993 Honda Civic 4 cyl Automatic 200, 00 miles

I have had my car for a little over a year it has always gave me a problem with running hot! About 6 months after I got the car I changed the radiator it done fine for a little while then in about mnths later I had got a new thermostat, water pump, head shaved and it done fine for about 7 mnths. There is sludge in my radiator from it running hot here lately what do I need to do! HELP
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi brandye,

When does it run hot?
Are both the fans working?
Since you hace sludge in the radiator, you should service/clean it to enable proper cooling. Use the proper coolant to prevent sludge and rust build up.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NIKKA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • HONDA CIVIC
I have a 1989 honda civic 1.5 engine over 100,000 miles and I recently had the head's repalced, the oil pump, the head gaskets, and the oil changed, well my car keeps running hot once it got almost all the way to the hot but we stopped and cooled it off and put water init, but the water was allready full so we can drive it around in our area but if we go more than 10 miles away it runs hot we had the oil checked there is no water in the oil so its not the heads, both fans are on, but it seems the more gas we give it the more the temperature gauge moves so we'd have to drive really slow to keep it from running completely hot. What do youy think do you think maybe my radiator is clogged or do you think may be its the thermostat but it it lets us know when its hot it gets hot in the middle also, and the check engine light comes on.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO BOB
  • MECHANIC
  • 45 POSTS
Verify that you are not loosing coolant out the tailpipe. Then check the ignition timing and also verify that the cam shaft is timed properly. If this all checks out okay, check for a partially plugged regulator.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FISHERMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 937 POSTS
First retieve the codes of your computer and also check the timing. Could be a few degrees moved or the timing belt one pitch ahead.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NIKKA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
ALSO I NOTICED THAT THERE IS GREYISHLY LIKE SMOKE COMMING OUT OF THE TAIL PIPE AND I CAN HEAR A LITTLE RATTLING NOISE UNDER THE CAR SOUNDS LIKE IN THE MIDDLE OR CLOSER TO THE FRONT
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MECHANICMATT299
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Your catalytic convertor is clogged up.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:48 AM (Merged)

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