Car wants to run hot?

So chageing the air intake could be the problem on why it's runing hot?

Do I need to have Air/fuel ratio checked?

I have a 98 honda civic it runs great but when you stop at a red light or stop after driving down the road it runs hot as long as you are driving at a good speed its ok I have replaced radiator waterpump hoses thermostat no leaks nowater in oil the fan is working but not sure if it might be weak what else can I look at?

I have the car listed above LX model. The past 2 weeks the car Runs hot. But it never fully always makes it up to the read the other thing is sometimes if I'm sitting it'll run hot but then when I start driving it goes down to normal but they will run hot again. I have replaced all switches thermostat relays and that's it so far I found out the fans weren't turning on. So somebody recommended checking the cooling fan switch by taking the plug off and sticking a metal pin and if the fan turns on then it was the cooling fan switch and it did. So I replaced it again I'm still having the problem. When I start it the temperature needle goes up to hot and that's from the car sitting all night. So I know the car's not running hot that fast, but I put coolant in it but it's going somewhere. We checked for leaks we found 2 leaks and fix them. I have no oil in my water or coolant in my oil. I have no milky looking oil and also there's no white smoke or any puddles or any kind of wetness left after I drive off or any smells. I also did a test in they said it's not a blown head gasket once I test drive it and I shut it off after about maybe 5 or 10 minutes of driving it I hear that the coolant is boiling, but yet there still no oil in the coolant, still no milky look in oil. So the other thing we did; was we took a lighter to heat up the cooling fan switch and the fans turn on so it's almost like it's not getting hot enough in that part to turn the fans on. So what could that be? But then where's the coolant going is the other thing, we have it now to wear when I turn the car on the fans come on automatically but it's still running hot. What else could be the problem? I have been puzzled I've been trying to fix whatever the problem is. People are telling me to bypass things I don't want to do that. I want to fix it the right way. Can you please help me? I am so stumped and confused on what else this could be! Please help me! Thank you

The heat in the car is fine. I've changed all switches, cooling fan switch, coolant temperature sensor and there is a 3rd one I changed can't remember the name. When I put a thermostat it seems to red hotter faster too. When I take it out and run the car with out it, it sometimes takes a little longer to red hot but the past 3 days it just starts to almost hit red then stops right before the red.

I haven't removed the thermostat, but I just bought it and it doesn't want to open up now. No bubbles and it does shoot water when the cap is off and I start it. We tried something, when we put a lighter to the bass part of the cooling fan switch and let it warm up the fans came on.
So it's almost like it's not getting hot. I did change the cooling fan switch twice, I changed the engine temperature sensor and the coolant sending.

Running hot. Had radiator replaced, not thermostat. Green fluid coming from the bottom.

I'm the original owner of my 1997 Civic EX. I have over 300K miles on it and regularly maintained it with the normal scheduled plans. The engine runs well and is still quiet like it was when I purchased it from the dealer. It seems to have the same acceleration and hp as when it was purchased. The last couple years I have had episodes of it running hot from time to time. It has been more persistant this time around.

Here is some background to the situation. A couple years ago I had to replace my radiator with OEM at the dealership. There was nothing noticeable after the replacement. Not sure if it is related or not. Anyway, during long runs, especially in very hot mid-atlantic weather the temp guage would start to move towards the MAX Red/Orange line, never really reaching it. The most usual time this occurs is during a stop at a light or stop sign. Then the guage begins to return to normal when I start to drive, but once it starts to run hot the ever moving guage continues to move from 1/2 to 3/4 at each stop or slow down.

I had it pressure checked the first time at two different shops. All checked out fine. Thermostat was changed once. Radiator cap was changed a year ago. Water pump has been changed 3 times with the replacing of timing belt. The most recent water pump change was about 2 months ago. Thought there could have been a minor leak that went undetected and put a stop leak in radiator. It worked well last year. This summer has been different.

Two funny things happened. About a year ago I noticed the upper radiator hose had squeezed together so I replaced it assuming the structural integrity of it was weak. The same thing happened about a month ago. It was replaced. Now, I keep hearing a "gargling" sound after a long run (20 miles or so in 90 plus degree days) when I turn the car off. The gargling is boiling coolant going into the overflow/expansion tank.

Two weeks ago my car started to run hot after driving about 60 miles in mid 90 degree temps. After leaving it sit several hours while visiting someone, the car ran at normal temp on my drive home when temps were down in the upper 60s.

My car doesn't show any smoke coming out the tailpipe. I do smell a type of fume from my engine. I was told it smells like oil.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

Hey, If your rad hose is colapsing then THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH EITHER YOUR RAD CAP OR YOU HOSE INTO OR YOUR RECOVERY TANK. That is the only thing that will cause a colapsing hose. INSURE that your coolent is at -20 F anything less will cause your coolant to boil at a point that is below where the manufacturer is turning your fans on. Fans can also be intermittent but I would think that after all this time they would have quit by now. Start out by taking you recovery tank hose loose at the rad and blow through it to the tank, better yet remove the tank. It may have a semi solid obstruction in the bottom of it that sometimes plugs and sometimes doesn't. Blow high pressure water or air through the recovery hose toward the tank and MAKE SURE ITS COMPLETY clear. Verify that your antifreeze is concentrate enough. Get back w/me.

At idle engine runs at normal temperature. It begins to run hot at highway speed. I have replaced the radiator, radiator cap, thermostat, and had head gasket sealent added less than 300 miles ago. There are not visable leaks. Any ideas of what is causing it to run hot?