Speedometer stops working

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Could be the back-up VSS on the dash, that's if it has one.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,754 POSTS
Other than a short which I doubt, you will need to replace the components. You can go online and purchase a used cluster and replace the needed pieces or buy new.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EMBER2018
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 223,000 MILES
Hi. I have the car listed above LX model. My speedometer would not work on occasion when I started the vehicle for the first time of the day, after driving five miles or so it would start to work fine.

I already replaced my VSS sensor (actually I had a qualified mechanic do it), part was purchased new from NAPA.

Everything was fine for a month or so. Now it is doing the exact same thing. Will not work for the first five minutes five miles of driving per day, but after that it starts working and no problems untill next day.

Pulled codes from TCU and ECU:

TCU Code 4 - VSS open/shorted - No signal from speedometer

ECU (Check Engine Light):
12 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation/EGR Lift Valve
17 - VSS - Speed Sensor
41 - Primary Oxygen Sensor Heater

I know codes 12 and 41 (probably) have nothing to do with a working speedometer. I know what an oxygen sensor is and what it does, but just out of curiosity what is an oxygen sensor heater?

My primary concern is the speedometer. Having a faulty EGR and o2 sensor will not get me a ticket.

I cannot check my cruise control because it never worked since I purchased the car five years/70,000 miles ago, so I assume that has nothing to do with it.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Thank you.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
Hello,

The oxygen sensor has a heater which helps the sensor read when it is cold. The speedometer issue sounds like the Napa sensor went bad or the have a instrument cluster that is bad. Try a new sensor first and then get a used cluster and plug it in.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DREW13
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
  • 175,000 MILES
I have already replaced the speed sensor (VSS), the Transmission computer (TCU), and the speedometer cluster gauge and my speedometer still won't work. I swapped these parts from working vehicles so I know they are functional. What would be my next step?

Thanks in advance for any possible help.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PROMECHANIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 536 POSTS
Sounds like you either have a problem with the wiring to or from the VSS or maybe even a problem with the speedometer gauge itself.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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See if the following is of any help.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DISRAMIREZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 165,000 MILES
I have already replaced twice the speed sensor, the speedometer still does not work. Well, that is not correct, when it rains hard, and there is alot of water all over the road, the speedometer starts working for about 30 to 40 miles, but for the most part it just doesn't work. What is the next step that I need to be checked out?
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
You will need to use these steps to diagnose the faulty speedometer.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname_648.jpg

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+3
Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GREENCHEVYMALIBU
  • MEMBER
  • 230 POSTS
  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 277,000 MILES
My battery started to act up. The car started then when I went to start it again the car wouldn't start. The all the gauges were going up and down. I clean the terminals off and the car started again but the speedometer went all the way around. Now its pointed like on a clock 6. It doesn't move much from there. How can I fix this? Its does move when you start the car but not right and only maybe an 1/4 inch or less.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi greenchevymalibu,

Power surging under conditions of replacing battery, jump starting and bad alternaotrs can cause the speedometer to spike and overshoot 1 cycle and staying at the 6 o'clock condition.

You would need to remove the meter cluster, remove the cover and turn the needle back ( anticlockwise) to sit at zero and meter should work again.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LQ2009
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 230,000 MILES
I have a 1992 Honda accord my problem on it is that I think my electrical system where the steering wheel is at is screwed up. First the windshield wipers don't seem to work when I flick on the switch, they don't turn on or sometimes they just turn on randomly and don't turn off even when I flick the switch on/off untill I turn the car off. Second thing is when I turn on my lights the speedometer doesn't work. When I'm driving it doesn't read how fast I'm going but when I flick the lights off it right away it reads the speed. Third is also with the speedometer and the light switch. When I flick on my turn signal to go left the speedometer needle drops and when the blinker goes off it returns to the normal reading. What do you guys suggest is wrong?
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
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Multiple problems when unrelated circuits are involved are usually caused by a bad ground wire that is common to all the circuits. Often multiple ground wires are crimped into one terminal that is bolted to the body under the dash or behind a side kick panel. If that terminal is rusty or loose, current from one circuit can find an alternate path to ground through another one, commonly a lighting circuit, then when that light is activated, that circuit doesn't act like a ground for the rest of them.

Check those ground terminals and look for connectors that could have a stretched, corroded, or burned terminal.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LQ2009
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you for replying to my question now another question where can I find the ground wire for the dash instruments and would it be safe for me to rewire the ground wire?
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
That's top secret and I can't tell you! Translation: I don't know. At least not specifically for your car. Most commonly ground terminals are bolted to the inside of the "A" pillar, behind the kick panel on each side. On some cars you'll find them bolted to a metal brace that runs from left to right, between the two doors, under the dash. You might even find them bolted to the firewall, although that is less common.

Most manufacturers use multiple ground terminals for two, three, or four different circuits or wire harnesses, and bolt them all to the body with the same screw. Some others, Ford in particular, put all of their ground wires into a single terminal, then bolt that to the body. That way guarantees if there's a bad connection, one circuit will back-feed into the others and cause weird problems, but the symptoms will be consistent. The first way can allow one loose terminal to make its circuit dead without regard to interacting with the other circuits. What that means is you might have intermittent dash lights, intermittent interior lights, and an intermittent heater fan, but any one or all of them could stop and start working at any time. When just one common terminal is used for all the circuits, a bad connection will always cause the same circuits to act up at the same time.

That's just "nice to know" information but it doesn't help with the diagnosis. If you find a loose ground screw, first just try to tighten it. If it is stripped, you can stick a piece of solid copper wire in the hole first, then run the screw in. The wire will make the hole hold the screw better. You can also drill a new hole.

If any of the wires are corroded, you might be able to see it or you might be able to pull the wire out of the terminal. The outer insulation is crimped to the terminal too, but it will stretch like a rubber band if the wire is corroded apart inside that insulation. Cut the insulation back until you find clean and shiny copper, then crimp on a new terminal. I always solder them too for a foolproof connection. You can put multiple wires in one terminal, you can use a separate terminal for each wire, or any combination. All you're after is each wire is in a terminal that is bolted to the body.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SUPERMOTO
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
  • 340,000 MILES
Recently my speedometer does not work when car first starts and drives, after 3-8 minutes it begins to jump around and finally works properly with no excess movement. Does not happen every time as sometimes there is no issue and it works as it should. Looking for some quick checks or elimination tests to determine a possible source. Weather has begun to get cooler, could this have any affect?

Thanks
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:57 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Have your speed sensor checked
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:57 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SUPERMOTO
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you, is this something I can test at home? How? Or an autoparts shop? I can't get all four wheels off the ground to complete a running test with vehicle on and in drive

Thanks again.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:57 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
It's on the transaxle and it hs to pulse between 0-5 volts when turning. It could be a wiring issue as well unless there is a speedo cable if there is lube it
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:57 PM (Merged)

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