1991 Honda Accord staring problem

Sounds like the same problem my car had. I have a 1991 Accord that started off stalling then would not start at all. For me it was a main relay but I would first make sure your fuel pump is still working by listening for the whirring sound when you turn your key to 3. If it does then I would try replacing the main relay. If not then it may be a fuel pump or fuel pump relay, spark plugs or bad coil/distributor.

I just got out of having this problem but mine also had transmission codes pop up. Would not start and was starving for fuel. Main relay was problem and is problematic in hot whether. Replace or re-solder (old solder joints must be removed first before you solder for good conductivity) main relay. No problems or codes after my re-solder.

Relays are only $30.00 at Napa and have been updated from the older ones anyway. It is worth the money to buy a new one rather than soldering the old one and having more problems in the near future.

I wish it was $30.00. California, was no lower than $50.00 and Napa has it for $65.99 or online for $61.99. You are correct, I assume it has been updated, but budget wise re-solder is a way.

Well for jobs like mine it may be more difficult. When I removed the plastic housing to inspect the soldering job it all looked fine from what I could see, but when I decided to replace it all together it fixed the problem. If its easy to see where the solder is broken and you know how to do it then id go for it. If not you should just order a new one in my opinion.

Understandable. But I trust the manufacturers to get the job done right. Maybe just because I am no electric wiz.

In addition to what khlow2008 said, other sites have been saying the original placement for the relays are not good and the link I sent earlier suggest a new mounting place for the relay after it is replaced or repaired that seems more efficient.

The soldering cracks are times very hard to spot (very fine hareline cracks) that causes this big mess. KHLow2008 is correct, once you re-solder correctly this should permenantly solve the problem.
About re-locating, that is because of accessibility. It is burred behind the cruse control box which requires you to remove all that. I read that you just need to mount in reverse to the main relay to sit beside the cruse control box verses underneath so next time (hope it does not) happen again, you just remove relay from casing without having to unbolt anything. During hot whether, there is no way for that relay not to get hot no matter where it is located (in my opinion) when windows are closed and been sitting in high heat for hours, but I also read and done was to create small holes on top of casing for ventilation. Just extra precaution for me.