Fuel pump fuse location

Quick question no start replaced a lot of parts when probing yellow wire to fuel pump assembly. Supposed to supply 12v to pump I have res to grd Is there supposed to be resistance to ground there.

Relay is good checked several times pump does not prime however provides pressure when cranking ecm comes on energizes relay after some time tinkering I decided to look for a grounded fuel pump. Internally grounded as I have had an issue like this with a different vehicle. Removed 3 pin connector at fuel pump. Probed the yellow wire which supplies twelve volts to the fuel pump this test was done with harness d/c at the fuel pump between yellow wire and ground I have approx 50-150 ohms.

Vehicle wont start I have tested injectors, relay, dist, cap rotor wires ecm pulses injector wires I have 12v hot to injector wires. Tested all fuses. Reset ecm. Blinking s light and no start

Vehicle does crank. Should have added that

1991 Honda Accord 4 cyl Automatic

I have a '91 Honda Accord that quit working while driving down the road. I have replaced the battery, alternator, spark plugs and wires, distributor car and rotor button, and the ignition coil. The car will cranks and turns over easy, but will not fire. We do not hear the fuel pump turn on so wanted to check the relay the the fuel pump. Where is the fuel pump relay located on a '91 Honda Accord? And is the fuel pump in the gas tank?

I have spark and fuel to rail but only when cranking. Sorry for so many replies but adding all that I have done replaced ecm was in water replaced dist. Replaced main relay because I foolishly thought with blinking s light it was bad codes 7 and 8 from tcm both shift solenoid codes

Ok but as I stated I tested the yellow wire at the fuel pump not harness side of the wire

Ok just a hick update sorry took so long to get back here.I pulled injectors have great spray all four plugs firing. Firing order correct. Manually cranked engine by hand to ensure distributor seated correctly it is.S light stopped blinking. Still no start checked ect. Tps. Iat. Seems like my map sensor isn't showing correct return voltage for 0 in/hg only have.19v returning which appears to be what it should read at full vacuum.I don't have a vacuum pump so I can't test other voltage readings.I think I am going lil crazy here thanks for your time PS bout 150 psi per cylinder compression I really am losing it this is the second new distributor I put in because the first one I got had a bad reluctor.I am sad

This accord has a habit of not starting when the fuel level goes below half a tank. Above that no problem, but as soon as it gets below that mark it will die or if you turn it off it won't start again. Changed fuel pump, cleaned tank, replaced fuel filter, replaced pump relay. Any help would be appreciated. Not much hair left on my head from this one. Thanks. Tigerguy05

I should have mentioned that I did pull the valve cover all the mechanical reasons for it to not run are sound the rebuild was done by an excellent machine shop here however I did visually verify the valve timing

Ok first of all I just want to say thank you.I have been so frustrated with this car I have about 15 years experience as an ase tech and have never had this issue before. Course I never was very good at electrical so here's a breakdown of some updates. The s light no longer blinks the fuel pump currently primes properly I have 43psi during prime and while cranking. It seems I have worked out alot of the electrical issues removes and unstuck egr pintle sensor and map sensor which was sending a full vacuum signal to the ecm. Now has the proper 3 volts. Here's the kicker the car ran albeit not great before I replaced the distributor.I have a sneaking suspicion the distributor is bad this was the second one I got from napa the first had a bad reluctor I pulled the injectors to verify nice conical spray.I have spark. Mechanically the timing is on it really wants to start but just won't