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Hard to start the first time in the Morning?

Tiny
BRANDON FREEMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2014 FORD TAURUS
  • 3.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 113,500 MILES
Title says it all after sitting for a while car is hard to start. Takes about four or five seconds of cranking. It cranks very well just and runs great after firing. Anybody have a similar problem?
Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 9:26 AM

33 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

This is usually the result of fuel pressure drop off. You need to check fuel pressure and drop off.

Check out this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

Try this:

Turn the key from off to the run positions (engine off) and count to 3.

Repeat that three times and on the forth time, try to start it. If it is pressure drop off, it will start quickly.

If, however, you want to check pressure, here is a link that shows in general how this is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

_______________

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for testing fuel pressure. The manufacturer's specs are included in the directions. All attached pictures correlate with these directions.

Fuel System Pressure Test

WARNING: Do not smoke, carry lighted tobacco or have an open flame of any type when working on or near any fuel-related component. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.
WARNING: Do not carry personal electronic devices such as cell phones, pagers or audio equipment of any type when working on or near any fuel-related component. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.
WARNING: Before working on or disconnecting any of the fuel tubes or fuel system components, relieve the fuel system pressure to prevent accidental spraying of fuel. Fuel in the fuel system remains under high pressure, even when the engine is not running. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury.
WARNING: Always disconnect the battery ground cable at the battery when working on an evaporative emission (EVAP) system or fuel-related component. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.
WARNING: When handling fuel, always observe fuel handling precautions and be prepared in the event of fuel spillage. Spilled fuel may be ignited by hot vehicle components or other ignition sources. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

1. Release the fuel system pressure. For additional information, refer to Fuel System Pressure Release See: Fuel Pressure Release > Procedures > Fuel System Pressure Release.

2. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, Refer to 414-01 See: Battery > Removal and Replacement > Battery.

3. Disconnect the fuel tube-to-fuel jumper tube quick connect coupling. For additional information, refer to Quick Connect Coupling See: Fuel Line Coupler > Removal and Replacement > Quick Connect Coupling.

4. Install the Fuel Pressure Test Adapter and the Fuel Pressure Test Kit between the fuel tube and the fuel jumper tube.

5. NOTE: The Fuel Pump (FP) control module electrical connector was previously disconnected to release the fuel system pressure and must be reconnected to test the fuel system pressure.

Connect the FP (Fuel Pump) control module electrical connector.

6. Connect the battery ground cable. For additional information, Refer to 414-01 See: Battery > Removal and Replacement > Battery.

7. NOTE: Carry out an ignition ON engine OFF visual inspection for fuel leaks prior to completing the fuel system pressure test.
NOTE: After completing the fuel system pressure test, open the drain valve on the Fuel Pressure Test Kit and release any residual fuel into a suitable container prior to removing the tool.
Test the fuel system pressure to make sure it is within the specified range. For additional information, refer to Specifications.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 5:58 PM
Tiny
BRANDON FREEMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Are these directions for a 2014 with the 3.5 direct injection?
Or the older 3.0 Duratech?
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:25 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi:
They are for the 2014 with the 3.5. Here is the heading from the page. I didn't attach it with the first post just to eliminate some of the information.

2014 Ford Taurus FWD V6-3.5L
Fuel System Pressure Test
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics Fuel System Pressure Test
FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE TEST

Fuel System Pressure Test

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe
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+1
Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 3:59 PM
Tiny
JOEDERESE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2007 FORD TAURUS
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 119,000 MILES
Still long starting after new coil, new wires and plugs.
Fuel pressure checks good.
Starts great first thing in the morning.
Starts great if turned off and immediately restarted.
Almost always long start if engine hot and turned off for a little while.
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
When it is hard to start, check fuel pump pressure. Let me know what you find.
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOEDERESE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Fuel pressure checked ok by mechanic yesterday.
Also mechanic said if there was a problem with the
fuel regulator that it would showed up on the
analysis since it is an electronic component.
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Interesting, I'm showing a vacuum operated regulator on this vehicle. See pic attached.

I want you to try something and tell me what happens. Before you start it, cycle the key to the run position 3 times. Each time, wait about 5 seconds before you turn it off and then back on. The 4th time, see if it starts.
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Sorry, I forgot the pic of the regulator.
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
USMCECHO7RET
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2006 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 107,000 MILES
I have to crank the starter three to four times, turning off the key in between each try. The engine will then start usually on the fourth try but sometimes sooner. It seems like after the engine is warmed up it starts on the firs try but not always.I replaced the fuel filter just in case it might be something simple like that, but it made no difference.
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
I need you to check fuel pressure drop off and fuel pressure regulator.

Here are the directions. You will need a gauge, but most parts stores will lend or rent one to you.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

Pay attention to fuel pressure drop off. When you shut the key, it should maintain pressure for a period of about 5 to 10 minutes.

Let me know what you find.
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
USMCECHO7RET
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I had to use a bypass hose at the filter so after attaching the hose and gage, turned on the key and the pressure only went up to about 10 psi. I shut off the key and recycled the pump and this time it went up to about 15 psi. The third time I cycled the pump it shot up to 60 psi and slowly cabe back down to about 48 psi. I thought it might be a problem with air in th eline from attaching the hose so I bled off the air (my gage set has a valve and bleed off hose) but when I tried it again I got the same results. I started the engine and watched the gage. The engine ran fine but the pressure slowly went down to about 56 psi before leveling off. After running the car, I shut it off and bled off the pressure manually. Turned on the key several times right after running and the pressure went directly up to 60 psi. Looks like I need a fuel pump?
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
That is what it sounds like. Did you check the regulator when you ran the vehicle?
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BENJO71
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2006 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 66,000 MILES
I am having trouble starting my car sometimes it starts on the first try and sometimes it takes 2 or 3 times to get it to turn over.
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
Hook up a fuel pressure check guage and check to see if the vehicle is holding pressure when the key is turned on, reset pressure turn nkey on again. Repeat 10 times, does pressure hld each time?

When vehicle wont start
turn the key on off on off on off on off on off in about 3 second cycle then start it, start better?
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TERSTER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2005 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 55,850 MILES
Hi,

We just bought a 2005 Taurus SE. V6, 3.0L and I believe it to be a 2 valve engine per my Ford dealer.

We bought it about 120 miles from home and it drove perfectly.

The next morning when I went to start the car, it turned over and started right away. However, once it started, for the first 7 - 10 seconds, the engine sounded like it might quit and i'd have to restart. It was very rough. After about 10 seconds, something kicked in and the idle went up and it was fine.

I didn't think much of it.

5 hours later when we went to run an errand, it started just fine.

The next morning (2nd day of ownership) I went out and started the car and the same exact thing happened. Car started almost immediately, for about 10 seconds it sounded like it was going to quit, then something kicked in and we were good.

Later in the day we went out to start again and it was fine.

The next day, 3rd morning after purchase, once agian, the same thing.

So it seems that only after the car has sat over night, when you first start the car, there is little power. The engine sounds rough and it feels like it might quit at any moment. 10 seconds after started, it runs perfectly and remains that way even after you stop and restart later in the day.

I was thinking maybe a bad tank of gas (we don't know how long it was sitting at the dealer). We ran the gas down to under a quarter tank and then filled up with brand new 89 Octane Mobile gas.

That was done only today, so I don't know if that will have any affect or not.

The car is not blowing smoke, there are no "noises" that we can hear, nothing seems out of the ordinary.

I asked my local Ford dealer if maybe it could be a bad tank of gas and plugs and they said unlikely. Gas maybe but the plugs are good for 100,000 miles. If one was cracked, the issue would remain, not go away after 10 seconds.

They said that maybe the "power control module" could use a software upgrade but didn't know without actually seeing the car.

The only advise was to hook up a reader and see if there are any "codes". Then they told me it would cost about $100 for that diagnostic service.

I found this forum and thought i'd ask my question here.

I've seen similiar postings however they were for 1997 and 1998 Taurus' and not something as new as a 2005.

I doubt that it matters but we live in southern wisconsin. The nights have been about 60 and the days have been around 75 degrees. We had one rainy night and 2 dry nights.

Weather so far, does not seem to be a factor.

Any advise would sure be appreciated.

Thanks!
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
HI there,

Thank you for he donation,

Try this simple test and report the results.

When you do the cold morning start, turn on the ignition and do not crank for 5 sec. Turn of and do the same thing, then try a normal start.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TERSTER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Hi.

We tried what you said and turned the key for 5 seconds, then back, then turned and started car.

Started perfectly.

We do have the new gas in the car, and since i'm not sure if that's a factor or not. Tomrrow I will try again.

Tomorrow I will try to start the car normally. If the original condition continues, then we know that priming the car by turning the key 1/2 way for 5 seconds is a partial fix.

But, what does that mean? Fuel pump? Please say no. We just paid more than what the car is probably worth and it pretty much tapped the budget. :)

Thanks again for your help. I'll post again tomorrow when I know if turning the key full, the first time, recreates the original issue or not.

If you would rather I NOT do that and have another troubleshooting step you'd like me to try, that is fine too.

Once again, thanks for the follow up.
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

That test is for fuel retention, I feel that the fuel is draining back into the tank over a period of time, what your are doing is re pressurizing the fuel rail before you start, what I feel was happening was that the car was starved of enough fuel till the pump picked up pressure again, this can be leaking valves in the fuel tank and possibly a faulty pressure regulator valve.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MATTPEAK
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2004 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 80,000 MILES
This car will take several attempts to start in the morning and has alot of chattering type noise behind the instrument cluster. I was able to duplicate the problem by either going direct from off to crank with the ignition or with the car off and manipulating the environmental system selector and pumping the brakes, then attempting a start. When I turn the key to run wait then crank it starts ok. I think the chattering behind the cluster sounds more like pneumatic action than electrical.
A local shop has had a crack at it and replaced the fuel filter. I replaced the fuel pump and plugs (gap was twice high limit).
Thanks,
Matt
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,749 POSTS
Sounds like the car is not getting enough fuel pressure. If you have accesss to a gauge then check fuel pressure when you turn key to run then get back to us.
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)

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