BCM location and replacement?

Hello, it looks like pin #26 is the floor shifter going to the BCM, having to do with the shift lock controls. It looks like it's a green/white wire. You can verify by wiring color. I have also included how to replace the BCM. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Under the dash just to the left of the steering column. Here is the BCM location in the images below.

Electrical drains are not measured in volts. Voltage is pressure, not quantity.

Here is how you measure for a parasitic drain.

You will need a digital ammeter and a jumper wire with clips on the ends to do this.
First rig any door switches so you can have a door open without triggering the interior lights and unplug the hood light. Remove one battery cable and attach the meter in series between the battery cable and battery post. Take the jumper wire and also attach it the same way. Leave the jumper wire on for at least 10 minutes to expire all the automatic timers. Now remove the jumper wire and read the meter. Anything over 50ma is too much draw. The way you locate this is to start removing fuses one at a time until the meter drops to normal level. This will be the circuit with something staying on. Determine what components are part of that circuit and check them individually until the problem is isolated.

When you put it back in you are restarting all those timers again so you have to wait after plugging it in to see the real reading.

There are a couple of specialtools to remove these but normally you can use a pic type tool to get in to release them. There are 7 different bcm's I coul d send a chart if yo uhave the oem part number

Ok we have no info on that and i've never done one sorry

If he admitted that he was the one that "blew" the BCM. Then why is it at your expense to pay for it? He should be paying for it if he was at fault. It does usually need programming by the dealer.

That is in no way true. My guessing is that something else happened to cause the issue. In GM vehicles I have seen where doing such things can cause cluster issues, but thats mostly in the trucks.

The bcm has to be set up with a tech 2, you have to set the bpp sensor and restraint id. Usually once the bcm is programmed it becomes locked and normally cannot be programed to the vin of your car, plus you have to get a bcm with the same options and engine size.I would have it scanned for the codes and see it it can even be set up.

Your BCM is located on the left hand side of the steering column.

If you want to replace the BCM, you will have to have the new BCM programmed at a chevy dealer. You can't do it yourself. Once it is programmed though it's only a matter of swapping the BCM.
However, before you spend money on that, make sure your problem is not elsewhere.

Does your car crank or is it silent when you turn the key?
Is your security light on?
If your car cranks, have you checked for sparks and fuel?

Here is a guide that can help you

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Before you can check for a fuel or spark related issue you first need the car to crank.
I forgot to ask, but you checked your battery to make sure it was good and the cables were clean and tight right?

If you replace the starter and starter solenoid, but the car still doesn't crank at all, I'm thinking your problem is either a bad ignition switch, park safety switch, or brake pedal safety switch.

Check for voltage at the solenoid; if you get 0, suspect one of the problem mentioned above.

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Best, Ken