The engine is misfiring I changed spark plugs

Tiny
BBRANNON
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
I have 2000 silverado 4.3 that has been acting up. It idles fine and always starts right up but when ur accelerating right before it shifts around 3500 to 4000 rpms it misses. Some times it just shudders and chugs sometimes it just falls completly on its tail and loses all power and will either go on die or it will catch back up and take off sometimes it will backfire. Once it has started messing up alot it will do it if ur just cruising or coasting but alot worse when ur accelerating at higher rpms. Its like it just loses fire I have checked fuel preasure, tps, changed plugs and plug wires, dis cap and checked resistance of the coil. Nothing helped. It seems to only do it when its warmed up and is worse when it is hot outside like 100 deg. Thanks
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Has it ever set a check engine light when it is running like this? If so have it scanned fo rcodes.If not it could be many different things.You may have a crank sensor that is breaking down when hot and giving bad readings to the PCM, if the fuel pressure is good then it is usually a sensor issue if it has to be warm/hot to act up, that is usually when they start having problems.Does the tach ever jump around when it is acting up?

This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BBRANNON
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Only light it gives is random misfire and p1351 and the tack just falls.
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
That is a code for the IC (ignition coil) control circuit, it can be set by a number of different items from the crank sensor to the coil to the PCM or the wiring in between. Try moving the wiring harness around while engine is running to see if it responds, also enhance/clean/inspect connections at the coil, coil module
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RANCHO9
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 43,000 MILES
The truck listed above is 1500 with a 5.3L engine. I have a random misfire and I can't find the problem.
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
I attached the testing for the p0300 code. This code is just telling us that the PCM is not seeing the crankshaft accelerate as it should after each time the spark plug fires. This is on various cylinders and not one repeatedly.

So this means we need to check the things that each cylinder has in common first. This is fuel pressure and ignition issues. This could also be o2 sensor issues or simply a crank sensor issue.

The only way to know for sure is to run through this testing and find out where the issue is. Let us know what you find and we can go from there. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JCWCLM
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 6.0L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,000 MILES
My 99 silverado 2500 6.0 is having misfire issues. It has misfires in every cylinder. Some rarely misfire and some misfire a lot. I've changed plugs wires and 3 coil packs on the worst cylinders. Checked fuel pressure and flow. Could it be the ecu? Or maybe valve springs or lifters?
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
It sounds like you have a weak furl pump or the MAF sensor needs to be replaced but to be sure this guide can help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Please run down this guide and report back.

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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BOOPERIII
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
A new fuel pump fixed it for me, thanks for the guides.
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAK389
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 235,000 MILES
Truck was missing so I replaced the plugs and wires and still missing, only when I give it gas though. Is it gas or the ignition coil?
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Hi,

This sounds like a weak spark condition so it is very likely the coil is the issue. The coil has low voltage and high voltage windings. I suspect the secondary (high voltage) side as an issue and is not delivering a strong spark.

If it were me I would just go ahead and replace the coil and see what happens. They are not that expensive and in my opinion is worth taking a shot at it. If that is not the case, we can dig further into fuel pressure and compression.

Let me know what you find and we can go from there. Thanks
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TATTOOKEN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1997 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,700 MILES
I've changed fuel filter, plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap, ignition module and it still isn't fixed what else is it
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Are you getting any other codes beside that one?
With that mileage have you taken a compression test?

This guide should help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TATTOOKEN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Just the p0300 code compression was about 120
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
120 is a bit low but that's expected at that mileage. You have something that is effecting all cylinders. You probably should use a scan tool and examine the sensor data very closely to get an idea what is triggering it. It could be lean fuel, restricted exhaust, crossed firing order, distributor not set correctly (that should set a P1345). There are many things that can lead to random misfire. You need to narrow down the condition triggering it.
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TATTOOKEN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Bad coil was it thanks, runs great again.
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CTHORN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 135,000 MILES
Truck listed above is a k1500 5.7 TBI. Engine missing pretty bad hot or cold in park and drive. Has new TPS, MAP, EGR, IAC, temperature sensor, plugs, wires, and distributor. A/C is unhooked.
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon,

I would start by doing a compression test to be sure there is no internal issue in the engine. The pressure should be 140-160 on each cylinder.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

I would also do a fuel pressure test to be sure enough fuel is to the injectors.

Ignition ON Engine OFF .................... 62-90 kPa (9-13 psi)

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Roy
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NCFIREFIGHTER2011
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1995 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 126,000 MILES
5.7L (350CI) Throttle Body Injected automatic with 126,000 miles. A while back I had bad misfiring (sputter, missing, and stumble) while accelerating and in the last gear under greater load i.E. Going up a hill (truck would shake and stumble) but not much while idling (slightly if at all) Replaced plugs (two plugs and ash deposits and one plug had oil on it) and fuel filter (filter poured out brown gasoline) and it ran like a champ for about a week.

Started doing the same thing again and also missing more at idle. Replaced wires, distributor cap, and rotor button. Wires had arcing spots, distributor cap was corroded and worn, rotor button was rusted onto the distributor and had lots of black deposits, the circular metal plate where the cap screws down on was solid green with corrosion, removed as much as possible but unable to remove it all. Solved the problem and ran wonderfully for a couple weeks to a month.

Now it is miss firing again while idle (worse than before) and while accelerating and cruising in last gear under load i.E. Going up a hill EXACTLY as before. Hoping it's not a warped or burned valve, especially since it ran like a champ for a while after every repair.

(As a side note, kind of unrelated, after the wires and distributor cap and rotor button, I had the intake manifold gasket replaced for leaking, valve cover gaskets replaced for good measure, and driver side exhaust manifold replaced because of a crack, done by a shop. The mis firing started a week or two after these repairs)

No black or blue smoke.

Stumped, any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance!

P.S. After replacing wires, the plastic clips unavoidably broke, some of the wires are touching metal brackets connected to the block, and I caught a couple wires touching the block, so I tied them back out of the way with zip ties. Should I wrap them in plastic electrical lume where ever they contact the metal brackets to prevent arcing?
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Try to avoid allowing the plug wires to touch the engine block where they can melt and arc. Check fuel pump pressure. Check crank sensor.

The odd thing about this is the fact that it works good for a period of time then changes back to the start. Therefore, I don't feel it is anything internal. I really feel it is ignition related. Check the things I mentioned. Also, if the new wires have any signs of arcing, they need replaced again. Also, I just re-read your comment about the metal brackets. There should be rubber grommets between the wire and the steel bracket.

Check out the guide below

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)

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