Fuel regulator

Welcome back, JC

The regulator on your truck is vacuum operated. To check it, you need to do a fuel pressure test and basically disconnect the regulator to see if things change. I will tell you that often times when they fail, it will draw fuel into the vacuum hose, so pay attention when you remove it.

Here is a link that shows in general how to check pressure and the regulator:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for checking pressure and the regulator:

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FUEL PRESSURE CHECK
PROCEDURE

(pic 1)

a. When reconnecting fuel line, always use new clamps.
b. Make sure that clamp screw does not contact adjacent parts.
c. Use a torque driver to tighten clamps.
d. Use Pressure Gauge to check fuel pressure.
1. Release fuel pressure to zero.
2. Disconnect fuel hose between fuel filter and fuel tube (engine side).

(pic 2)

3. Install pressure gauge between fuel filter and fuel tube.
4. Start engine and check for fuel leakage.

(pic 3)

5. Read the indication of fuel pressure gauge.

At idling: Approximately 235 kPa (2.4 kg/sq. cm, 34 psi)

A few seconds after ignition switch is turned OFF to ON:
Approximately 294 kPa (3.0 kg/sq. cm, 43 psi)

6. Stop engine and disconnect fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose from intake manifold.

(pic 4)

7. Plug intake manifold with a rubber cap.
8. Connect variable vacuum source to fuel pressure regulator.
9. Start engine and read indication of fuel pressure gauge as vacuum is changed.
Fuel pressure should decrease as vacuum increases. If results are unsatisfactory, replace fuel pressure regulator.

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If you find the regulator is good and the injector needs replaced, here are the directions. The remaining pictures correlate with these directions.

INJECTOR REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
PROCEDURE
1. Release fuel pressure to zero.
2. Remove injector tube assembly with injectors from intake manifold.

(pic 5)

3. Remove injectors from injector tube assembly.
- Push injector tail piece.
- Do not pull on the connector.

(pic 6)

4. Install injector to fuel tube assembly.
a. Clean exterior of injector tail piece.
b. Use new O-rings.
Always replace O-rings with new ones.
Lubricate O-rings with a smear of engine oil.
5. Install injectors with fuel tube assembly to intake manifold.
Tighten in numerical order shown in the figure.
a. First, tighten all bolts to 9.3 to 10.8 N.m (0.95 to 1.1 kg-m, 6.9 to 8.0 ft-lb).
b. Then, tighten all bolts to 21 to 26 N.m (2.1 to 2.7 kg-m, 15 to 20 ft-lb).

(pic 7)

6. Install fuel hoses to fuel tube assembly.
7. Reinstall any parts removed in reverse order of removal.

CAUTION: After properly connecting injectors to fuel tube assembly, check connections for fuel leakage.

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If you replace the injector, check all rubber o-rings. You don't want a fuel leak. A small nick can cause a leak. Also, I always lube the o-rings with petroleum jelly. Sounds crazy, but it works great.

If the injector was dumping fuel, make sure to change the oil. I hope it didn't hurt the catalytic converter.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

I am happy to help. You have your hands full. Let me know if you need anything.

Take care,
Joe

Welcome back:

Chances are you damaged the o-ring or it did not seat properly. I would take it apart and check. I would not replace all the injectors, but replacing the o-rings is cheap. Also, I always lubricate the o-rings with petroleum jelly before I put it together. That way it has less chance of damage.

I attached a picture of the injector and o-ring.

Let me know if this takes care of it. Keep in mind, the smallest nick in the o-ring can cause a leak because of the pressure they are exposed to. Additionally, make sure everything is tightened as per the prior post.

Joe

Welcome back, JC:

Electric is really interesting. It will always find the easiest way out. Thus, if you remove the primary ground, it will try to find the next easy ground. As a result, all kinds of things happen. Lights can come on when they should not, gauges can function when they should not, and I am sure injectors can get power when they should not.

Now, you should not smell raw fuel. Any fuel leak is dangerous. Recheck the injectors to make sure the o-rings are not leaking. It is really easy to nick one when installing.

As far as the idle, it too can be related to ground issues.

I attached two pictures/schematics of the grounding locations. Electrical components are listed and their ground location is also indicated. Thought this would help.

Let me know if you have other questions. Make sure to locate where the raw fuel smell is coming from. Also, check the o-rings on the injectors for leaks. By the way, no question is stupid. This was a very logical question.

Take care,
Joe

It sounds like you are getting there. Take a look through this link as see if there is anything that helps.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-surges

Let me know.

Joe

We need to figure out what hose is missing and what its purpose was.

I have attached a vacuum hose schematic for you to look at. Let me know if you can identify which hose is missing. Next, is a picture of a bad manifold absolute pressure sensor which is aprox where you said. See if that is what is missing the hose.

Let me know what you find. I am interesting in knowing. I have have a feeling there is an issue with the camshaft position sensor, which is built into the distributor along with other components. However, without a code, I cannot be sure.

Hi JC:
No sealer is used on a head gasket. I was taught long ago, if the surface is clean and dry, a gasket is all that is needed. Unless, however, it is recommended and it is on some components.

As far as the distributor, I would hate to be wrong. Please, Please. Please understand that is a theory. Without codes, it is nothing more than an educated guess. I will tell you the cam sensor does play a big role in injector and ignition timing.

Sounds like a plan. Let me know the results.

Take care,

Joe