Fuel pump replacement

The info provided was great for the task at hand. Problem is it didn't remedy the car starting? With the fuel pump out I tested it with a 10 amp battery charger and the old pump started up and ran. I then plugged it in to the wiring from the car and it didn't run when the ignition was turned to accessory. All fuses look good and the relays were switched with other identical relays in the fuse/relay block. A visual check was done to the wiring of what could be seen and it looked to be in good shape. As I mention in my first message the 20 amp fuse for the starter/fuel pump in the fuse/relay block under the hood failed a half dozen times over approximately 5,000 miles leading me to believe it may have something to do with the fuel pump. When it quit running the last time, the ignition was turned to accessory and the pump didn't pressurize and only cranked. At that point the bottom of the gas tank was pounded on and it stared for a very short time, drawing my conclusion to believe it was a fuel pump failure. At this time it only cranks. Suggestions/comments.

Thank you very much for the information about the fuel pump! The replacement solved the problem. Now if I could ask another question pertaining to the right rear brake pads dragging on the same vehicle-2001 Sebring convertible 2.7. This is my Grandson's vehicle so I only see it when he has an issue. The right rear brake stayed partially applied and when he arrived the pads were wore down to the metal. I replaced the pads, rotor and caliper after removing all rust and build up that may have interfered with the movement of any contacted new parts, everything moved freely as it should have. Fast forward 700 miles. He arrived again with the same issue. The brake components were so hot the caliper piston boot melted. I took all parts back and had them replaced under warranty and installed them. Fast forward 1,000 miles, I checked and the pads on the the brake - half gone, the driver side pad were replace at the same time and are not noticeable worn. I checked the rotation of the tire and noticed a slight drag, then took the tire and rim off and checked the rotation, there was drag and the caliper had free movement, but the pads and rotor moved with the caliper. I then again took all parts off and looked for anything that may have obstructed brake fluid flow. I found nothing. I checked to see if the flow from the other rear brake was the same when loosening the bleeder valve and it appeared the bad brake line was similar, possible a little slower. I tried to trace the line from the caliper to the reservoir but could not. Then took off reservoir cap and put 110 ponds of air pressure into the brake line to see if it may have restrictions. The reservoir did not rise. I'm baffled? Any suggestion would be appreciated.