Will not start after replacing the fuel filter

Hello,

It is a good idea to cycle the key back and forth few times. Turn the key to the on position to have the pump run then repeat few times. This allow the pump to properly prime the line.

It is possible that you have air trapped in the line and priming the pump few times typically takes care of it.

I have attached the fuel filter replacement procedure below, take a look at it, just in case you have missed something.

Let me know of any questions.
Thank you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-a-fuel-filter

Thanks for the quick reply! I'll try your method with the ignition key in the morning. I do think it's a matter of being primed or possibly air in the line.

I'll keep you posted.

Thank you!

Sounds good. You are welcome.

Hello.

I tried the key turning method with no luck. On recommendation from a friend who is a retired mechanic, I disconnected the outlet gas line to see if there was gas flowing through the filter. When I took off the line gas spurted out. so, there was pressure there. I then turned the key to see if the fuel pump was working, and yes, it is. Fuel squirted out as normal.

Still won't start. It's hard to determine whether it's still not fully primed if there's air in the system or something else altogether.

Please help!

Thank you!

And yes, I checked again to make sure the filter is installed in the proper position for correct flow.

I also - just for kicks - took out two spark plugs. Both had gas on the ends. Could it be flooded? If so, does the old method of holding the gas pedal to the floor while cranking still work?

If you have excessive gas on the plugs, they will not fire, and the engine will not start.
Check the rest of the plugs. Clean them out and give it another try. Holding the pedal won't do anything on a fuel injected vehicle, besides if the plugs are already soaked with fuel, you do not want to add any more.

Thank you! I'll dry off the plugs and try again. They are new plugs as of a week ago. I do have a misfire on cylinder 3, but the engine's been running pretty well in spite of it.

Back to you soon.

Dried out the spark plugs by wiping them off and setting them in the sun for almost two hours. Sun here in Nevada is intense, and we have very low humidity. There's also a good breeze blowing. I think they are dry.

Any particular method you recommend for attempting to start the engine so I don't re-flood the spark plugs?

Nothing special, just try to start it and if it does not start after one maybe two tries check one of the plugs to see if it is wet again. This can tell you that there is too much fuel getting into the engine.

Thanks! I have a meeting this morning and will try to start the engine after.

Let me know how it turns out.

Will do.

Hello,

Still no luck. I pulled plug number one after about three tries to start the engine. It is indeed soaked in gas.

As an aside: About three years ago I had a problem with a 2004 Mitsubishi. One morning it just wouldn't fire up. I did a bunch of things, including replacing the fuel pump...still no start. After some investigation into an unfamiliar light on the dash a car with a key through it.. I found out simply changing the battery inside the ignition key was the magic switch.

I did that today in hopes it would work.. it did not.

What's next?

It might be a good idea to check the fuel pressure. You might be getting too much fuel due to an issue with the regulator.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Did you have any issues before the filter change?

I've had an ongoing misfire of cylinder #3 for months. I was told compression was less than half of normal. At first, it would idle down at stop lights, etc., and sometimes stall. I replaced plugs, ignition coils and cleaned the throttle body. The misfire was still there, but no longer had problems with stalling...RPMs at idle in drive were at 600-700. The car ran well considering the misfire. At higher speeds it seemed to even out and was even "peppy". It was like that just before I replaced the fuel filter.

The filter change is very simple. It's accessible easily right under the driver's side door. Simple as it is, I consulted a few YouTube videos for the procedure. Both instructed to start the engine, pull the fuel pump fuse and wait till the engine stops, thus releasing pressure in the line. I did all that, changed the filter (the old one rattled) replaced the fuse and the engine wouldn't start. In both videos it only took the normal loading of the fuel line (key to on and wait for the fuel pump to stop) to start the engine.

One thing I noticed was that each vehicle in the videos stopped running within just a few seconds of pulling the fuse. Mine kept running for maybe up to 15 seconds before it stopped. This made me think the line wasn't primed enough and needed more fuel. I probably flooded it myself trying to prime the system.

I did remove the line from the fuel filter to the engine and there was decent pressure. While the line was off, I also turned the key to "on" so the fuel pump would run...which it did, again with decent pressure...fuel came squirting out of the filter.

My difficulty with checking fuel pressure is I haven't been able to locate the valve. Given the engine has direct injection, I think the fuel rail is under the cylinder head with the fuel injectors. ???

Please let me know your thoughts.

Per my message from this morning, I checked two plugs: #1 and #5. #1 was dry, #5 had just a tiny bit of gas on the rim where the threads start - the firing portion was dry. I want to give it a try, but I need to hear your recommendation first. I don't want to mess up what I may have finally corrected.

Thanks, Brian

Just to jump in on this as I have been burned with similar things. If you found the plugs wet, then more than likely they are fouled. Have you changed the plugs out or just dried them? Normally once they are fouled, they tend not to produce the spark needed to get an engine started.

Now that they are not strong enough the PCM is still dumping the normal amount of fuel needed to start the engine, so it just compounds the issue.

What I would do is start with trying a clear flood start. This info is attached below which is where you just hold the accelerator to the floor and start the engine. This will cut 80% of the fuel delivered and the engine may start. More than likely, it will take a long crank before it does because it is far less fuel then normal but if it does, then you need to change the plugs.

Even if this doesn't get the engine to start, you will most likely need to change the plugs because they may be so fouled at this point that they have completely failed.

You can test this by pulling one out and hold it against the block and see how bright and blue the spark is.

However, assuming this happened immediately after changing the filter and the engine was running prior, the only way I can explain it is you had a restricted filter and the plugs had worn to the point that they had weak spark already. Then you remove the restriction in the filter that a full load of fuel just wipes out the weak spark.

if this theory is correct, then you should see some positive results with the clear flood start and/or replacing the plugs.

Thanks

Hello Kenny!

Thanks for the reply! My previous contact - Brian - and I went through much of what you recommend. After drying the plugs, I did use the "gas pedal to the floor" method with no result. But yesterday morning after I checked the plugs to see if they were wet and they were not. Not receiving further instruction, I tried to start the vehicle in the normal way - key to on position, then crank after fuel pump quit. No luck. I stayed at it for while going back to the pedal to the floor and still no luck.

The plugs were new...about a week old...but I can see what you're saying about them getting fouled. It's definitely worth buying another new set if it will do the trick. How do you recommend I proceed with the new plugs? Attempt to start normally, or begin with the clear flood method?

I appreciate your help!

Gary

In theory if the plugs are producing a proper spark and the injectors are adding the proper amount of fuel then you can start it normally.

However, I can tell you are concerned about it dumping too much fuel. So, you are not going to hurt anything by using the clear flood start just to see if it is going to start. However, you are going to have to crank it for a while.

So, I would crank for no longer the 5 seconds at a time. Then stop for a few seconds to allow the starter to cool off. If you just crank and crank the engine, then you are going to burn up the starter.

If it were me, I would put new plugs in it and crank it for 5 -7 seconds normally as it should start. If not, then stop for a minute or so, then try the clear flood start. If it starts with this method, then you more than likely have a high fuel pressure issue or leaking injectors.

If not, we need to go back to the drawing board on why this is not starting. Which means we need to pull a plug and check the spark intensity. Then we will have to check the fuel pressure.

However, your system being direct injected means you have a low side pressure and a high side.

Basically, the low side supplies the proper amount of fuel to the high-pressure pump for it to be injected into the cylinder.

If all this checks out, my bet is we will find the high-pressure pump is not building enough pressure which means it supplies fuel to the cylinder at a low pressure and the engine will not start and act like it is flooded.

Wow. I'm amazed at how it ran. okay until I pulled the fuel pump fuse and let the engine quit. I watched a few YouTube videos showing to pull the fuse to let off the pressure. Was that a mistake?
I did check to see if fuel was being put out by the fuel pump through the new filter, and it squirted out nicely.
Anyway, I'm off to pick up new plugs and will be back after a few errands to install them. I have to go to the DMV for a moving permit to extend my registration. I was going for a smog waiver - which requires $200.00 worth of parts dedicated to the smog problem. I have everything, but I have to take the vehicle so show the parts were installed. now the vehicle won't start. If it wasn't for bad luck. well, you know the rest.
Thanks again for your help. Back to you later.

This was not incorrect. They say to remove the fuel pump relay/fuse only when you are working on the high-pressure side because that can be harmful if you have high pressure releasing a line.

On the low side they just say to remove the fuel filler cap, but I can't imagine that this was related to the fuse removal.

I think you had an issue with that filter, and it was masking the issue that you are having now. So now that you have a free-flowing filter, you are seeing this issue. Again, that is a theory but if that is not it, this is a pure coincidence.

One last thing while I am thinking of it, does the theft light stay on or flash when you are trying to start the engine? Can't see how this would be the issue but I just had that thought and we need to eliminate it.

Let us know what happens and we can go from there. Thanks

Hello Ken! I'm going to install the new plugs today in hopes they'll solve the problem.
As for the theft light, no it doesn't stay on or flash. I had a problem a few years back with a Mitsubishi Endeavor where just like now the car would crank, but not start. I did a bunch of "fixes", including installing a new fuel pump (pretty easy on that vehicle) and it still didn't work. By chance I noticed the "immobilizer" light was on. Turned out the fix was simply to put a battery in the key. With that in mind, even though the light hasn't been on or flashing I replaced all the batteries in the key fobs and ignition key.

Oh, by the way, I have 10 days to get it fixed. Smog issue has me over a barrel. In the event of a failed smog test, if one spends $200.00 or more attempting to fix the problem and it still fails smog, a one-year waver can be obtained allowing for a registration to be issued. It was what I was going for I knew it would fail, given the misfire issue on cylinder #3, so I did what $200.00+ would get me. I have the receipts and I did install the parts. Problem is, I can't drive the vehicle to the DMV for them to verify that I did indeed install the parts. Yesterday they gave me a second 10-day moving permit after that, if things are still up in the air, they'll hit me up for $8 per day until the issue is resolved.

Just so you know, I'm an elderly man living on Social Security. Taking the vehicle to a shop for extensive repairs is way out of my budget. Not whining, just saying.

Back to you later with results of new spark plugs.

Thanks for being there and helping!

Sounds good. Hopefully, we get some positive news with the plugs, and we can go from there.

Thanks

Amen!

Okay Ken, I just installed the new plugs. Nervous about trying it. Haha. I noticed a fair amount of gas on the plugs I just took out. Not as much as last time when they were "washed out" but some. After putting the first new plug in, I took it back out again to see if it had gas on it. Some gas still showed up on the first few threads near the rim, but none on the firing area. Given this, do you recommend the pedal to the floor method first, or one or two tries with normal start up procedure?

Yeah. I would. If you haven't installed them all yet. Just leave them out for a few minutes and that fuel will evaporate if there is fuel in the combustion chamber.

However, if you have them installed already then try the clear flood start first and see what happens.

Already installed them. Gave it a try with the clear flood method, no luck. tried it well over a dozen times. Battery is getting low. I'll have to get a charger and charge it.

Frustrating! Tomorrow I'll check for spark. I could rent or borrow a fuel pressure gauge, but with the direct injection, I don't see where the port to connect is. A mechanic friend said look for a valve that looks kind of like a tire valve, but I don't see anything like that other than the one for the A/C.

Thanks for your quick replies! Please stay with me.

Just read a blurb about checking fuel pressure on my vehicle. Says there is no port for checking pressure. The way to do it is to disconnect the fuel line and jump the terminals. It says there should be about .38 liters (almost half a quart) after 15 seconds. Without doing that, I know from when I did check to see if the fuel pump was working, it put out an amount of gas after only a few seconds that I believe would be the right amount if held for 15 seconds.

I don't think it's the problem, but then again, I'm certainly no expert.

Got it. So now we are onto confirming spark as you mentioned. Then we are going to need to check the high-pressure side because you are correct that the low side is basically just a volume check.

The high-pressure pump is on the rail, but you have a sensor that can be monitored with a scan tool. Do you have a scan tool that can monitor PCM data? If so we need to see what it is saying for the high side PSI.

Good morning, Ken!

No, I don't have a scan tool, unless it's the same as the little computer used to read codes.

I plan to check for spark, and while I'm at it I look for gas-soaked plugs. It appears I'll need another person to assist with the spark check, which means it will have to wait until later today or even tomorrow unless I can figure out a way to set up the plug and see it while I crank the engine.

I'll look into getting a scan tool. I'm also going to start looking for a shop to help. My problem there is expense, but the clock is ticking.

I'm thinking dynamite might be the answer. Kidding of course!

Stay with me. I'll be back to you as soon as I have new information.

Sounds good. I would recommend not buying a scan tool unless this is something that you regularly would use. Most people that buy one rarely use it so it is better to have a shop look at it and allow them to use theirs.

There are many out there for $100.00 but I have found that they are good for a monitoring some data but lack a lot of useful info. In fact, they pull a lot of generic info that most vehicles don't even have so it gives a lot of erroneous info.

Let us know what you find. Thanks

Will do. There are some mobile car repair guys around, I may be able to have it looked at here instead of having it towed to a shop. Not sure of their abilities though.

Before I resort to that, I'll at least do the spark test. Maybe I can rent a scan tool?

Thanks!

Hey Ken,

Still waiting for the battery to charge.
I just had a crazy thought: Do you think it would be worth the effort to put the old fuel filter back in to see if it starts? Maybe the reduced amount of fuel (if that's what was happening) will temporarily do the trick.
What do you think?

I had not thought of that but again in theory if that is the issue then yes that would work. It is worth a try at this point since you are on a bit of a time crunch. Let us know what happens. Thanks

Will do. Yeah, it's not a tough job, other than squeezing the tabs on the quick connects on the lines. LOL. I'll give it a shot in the morning.

Thanks!

Hi Ken,

Well, I finally got the battery charged and just did a spark check, no spark. I tested the number one plug first, because I had it out and dried it overnight. Then I tested number 4 and got the same results. Number 4 was again wet with gas. I dried it off, but it wasn't as dry as number one. These are the new plugs I just put in. I tested number 4 in case it was the coil not working on number one. So, I will go ahead and put the old fuel filter back on and will see if I get spark from an old (but not much used) spark plug from before when the vehicle was still running and before I had any gas flooding issues.

Just so you know, my test procedure was to pull the plug, attach it back to the coil, and hold it against the intake manifold (aluminum - I think). Is that a proper test?

If it still doesn't spark, what's my next step?

Thanks!

Gary

Tried the old, but good, plug and still no spark. Wish I would have checked a few days ago.

Where do I go from here?

Okay. If you are not checking the spark with the plug against the block or a known good ground, then that is not going to work. The manifold is not going to be good enough so let's do the same test on the block and see if there is spark.

If there is no spark, then we have either an ECM issue or the cranks sensor has failed.

What needs to happen is we need to check the ECM to find out if it is grounding the coil so that it commands the plug on.

You do this by putting your test light clamp on battery positive and then checking the terminal from the ECM to the coil and crank the engine. The test light should flash when it is commanding the coil to fire the plug.

I attached the wiring diagram below. If this is the case, then this has nothing to do with changing the filter as that would not disable the ignition.

What I would recommend is go back over everything you did and make sure you didn't remove a fuse or the fuse for the coils, shown below, is not blown and then check the coil as described above.

Okay. First things first. I'll recheck the plug spark against the block.
It's really hard to get to the block under the cylinder heads...will the exhaust manifold work as a ground? There's also a an "eye" sort of hook that appears to be attached to the block possibly for lifting the engine? Will that work? It's very accessible.