Engine will not start up and run?

Hi, my name is Dave,

Assuming that fuel delivery is your issue it sounds like you are not getting either power or signal to your injectors. The easiest way to test this is with a noid light, you should be able to buy a set for under $20.00. They are very simple to use you simply unplug an injector, plug in the noid light in its place, have someone turn the engine over and see if the light flashes. If the light does not flash the first thing to check would be for power to the injector, a simple test light will work to test for this. Simply turn the ignition on and see if you have power to the injector plug. If you do not check your fuses. If you do and the light still does not flash then most likely your issue is the crank sensor. If the light flashes then you have another issue. The other possibility is that it is not getting enough fuel pressure, the two most common causes of this other than a faulty fuel pump would be the pressure regulator and the fuel filter. I know you said that the fuel comes out of the filter when you cycle the key however that does not mean that there is enough pressure, your car requires 38-44 lbs of fuel pressure. You can get a pressure gauge through most loner tool programs at most auto parts stores. Your car does not have a test port so you would connect it where the fuel filter goes, I would suggest checking it both with and without the filter just to eliminate the filter. If both of these tests come out to be okay then you most likely have a fuel pressure regulator issue.

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

I hope this has been helpful, let us know if you need anymore help and thank you for using 2CarPros.

Hello CHRISKNEELAND,

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros. Here is a link to an article from this site with step by step instructions and pictures explaining the process of checking the fuel system pressure, regulator and fuel pump in less than fifteen minutes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

If you need further assistance please come back to the site we are always happy to help.

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin

--Check the EGR and PCV valves, MAF and TPS sensors-

Check and test the distributor magnetic pick-up coil

Hi,

The idea that it starts with starting fluid is usually an indication of a fuel issue. As far as the igniter code, what specific code was retrieved? That is specific to the ignition system and can also cause a no start.

With that, I would start by confirming if there is ignition spark to the plugs and confirm the fuel injectors are getting power.

Here are two links that explain how to test that:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Do that and let me know the results. Also, please provide the specific diagnostic trouble code you found.

Take care,
Joe

The code indicates no IGF signal to the ECM. Basically, there is no spark. The IGF signal is communicated with the ECM to indicate a spark has occurred. We have one of two problems. Either we are not getting a signal from the ECM to the coil to create a spark or the coil is bad.

I see the pic above is the spark plug wire. How did you test that?

The way this needs checked is this. We need to determine if there is a signal to the coil and a response back via the IGF signal. I attached a pic below. At the coil, disconnect the electrical connector You will need a multi meter to test for power. Also, the power will only exist when the engine is being cranked and will not be constant. It will power on and off.

Okay, at the connector, there is a white wire (IGT) that sends signal to the coil to fire. There is a blue wire with a yellow tracer that returns signal to the ECM indicating there was spark.

Test one at a time. It will not be more than 5v, but you should see a signal as you have a helper crank the engine. You will need to back probe the wires because they need to be connected on the coil when testing.

If there is signal from the white wire, replace the coil. If there is no signal, we need to work back to the ECM to see if there is an open circuit or a connection issue.

Since you said it starts somewhat with starting fluid, I have a feeling the coil is bad and not producing a strong enough spark to burn fuel. However, this is the only way I know to confirm.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Hi,

I have a feeling it is a bad connection between the igniter and the ECM. Have you tried checking for the signals I mentioned above? I realize it's not the easiest test, but that is what we need to do.

Let me know.
Joe

Fuel injection strategy requires a reference signal and an RPM signal to activate injectors and to create spark, checking these basics is where I would begin

Hi there,

Thank you for the donation,

First thing to do is check for any unresolved fault codes (not all faults will trip the check light) check for spark, injection pulse and fuel pressure, if you can do this and let me know the results it will be a big help in further diagnosing this problem.

Mark (mhpautos)

Its crankiing over and will not start do below to determine if its fuel or spark problem.

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.