Front left side shake

Struts and alignment will not cause this. A broken tire belt can, but we are past that since they have been replaced. Add the hot smell symptom and most likely you have a sticking brake. You will find if you stop on a slight incline and shift to neutral, the car will not creep down hill on its own. Feel by the wheels after a short drive at highway speed and you will find one wheel is very hot.

To diagnose this you need to open the brake line going that wheel at various places to see where the brake fluid is being trapped. Park on that incline and place a block about a foot down hill of a tire so you don't look funny chasing after the car when the brake frees up. Shift to neutral. If you loosen the steel lines at the master cylinder and the brakes release, we will have to discuss the issue. Lets hope that does not work.

Most commonly you would want to crawl underneath and open the bleeder screw on the caliper. If that brake still does not release, that caliper must be replaced. There is a ring of rust or dirt on the piston that is getting stuck under the rubber square-cut seal. That causes problems most often shortly after the piston has been pushed back into the caliper to make room for new pads.

If the caliper does release when you open the bleeder screw, that proves the caliper is okay and it's the brake fluid that is being trapped somewhere else. That is a very common problem on some other Chrysler models, caused by the rubber flex hose, but the hose on your car is not of that design. You will need to open that line at other places to see where the brake fluid is being trapped and is unable to release back to the reservoir.

No. Are you referring to control arm bushings; part of the suspension system, or bushings in the brake calipers' mounting ears?

If the bushings in the calipers' ears are deteriorated, you would have a horrendous rattle over bumpy roads, and the loose caliper would get bounced around which would push the piston back into it a little. That would be the opposite of a caliper that was not releasing, and the brake pedal would go much too low to run the piston out far enough the next time you applied the brakes.

Control arm bushings will not cause a vibration or shimmy, but they can allow a shimmy to occur that is being caused by something else. Vibrations of this type, and shimmies are caused by a part that is rotating.

Now, to add to the confusion, if a control arm bushing is really worn, it will prevent that wheel from being held in perfect alignment. With some suspension designs and the inter-related steering linkages, that could allow the two front tires to steer slightly away from the center of the car, then, once the tires' sidewalls could not flex any more, the tread would jump back, then start the "walking" sideways all over. That can show up as a shimmy, especially at higher speeds, but the bushings have to be really bad. Normally this just shows up as a bad tire wear pattern on both front tires equally. In this case it is true, it is the worn bushings that are the culprit, but they would not cause a shimmy unless the tires were rotating.

Everything in your first post points to a sticking brake caliper.