1994 Ford Taurus Oil Pump/light

Tiny
RSUKOVICH
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  • 1994 FORD TAURUS
Engine Mechanical problem
1994 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 160K miles

Re: 1994 Taurus 3.8L engine. I recently completed the process of removing the timing chain cover to get at a stubborn stud that goes thru the water pump and timing chain cover. I did this with the oil pump intact. I did not use any new parts for the cover or the pump. After everything was back together, it wouldn't start and with the help of one of your techs, I got it started, but it will not idle or accelerate. I repeated the process about 5 times and it would start but, again, will not idle or accelerate. I noticed that indicator lights on the dash went out, but the oil light stayed on. Of course I put new oil in and I don't know if the car was running fast enough or long enough to pump oil to make the light go out. I checked and the wire is connected to the oil pump sensor. As I understand it, the hex rod that extends from the end of the distributor is what drives the pump and since the distributor seats properly, I have to assume that the rod is seated properly within the pump gear. When I had the oil pan off, I did not remove the pick up pipe, but did clean the screen and it was clear. I took the new oil filter off too and it's dry.
Monday, March 29th, 2010 AT 2:46 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
PEAR69
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A dry filter indicates that the oil pump is not pumping oil. The oil pressure will come up almost instantly when you start the engine. The oil light also indicates that the oil pump has failed or something is blocking oil flow within the oil system of the engine.
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Monday, March 29th, 2010 AT 9:58 PM
Tiny
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Ok, I have the pan down, the timing chain cover off, and the oil pump off of that. All passages are clear and the gears look to be in good conditon. Prior to making this repair, there was no inidicaton of oil pump failure and the inside of this engine is clean. Does this oil pump require priming, such as stufing it with vaselin?
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Wednesday, March 31st, 2010 AT 7:33 PM
Tiny
PEAR69
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I assume you are installing a new oil pump - in which case - follow the instructions that come with the new pump. If not, then yes - prime the pump by filling either the inlet or outlet port with oil and turning it by hand to distribute the oil inside of pump. Be sure the oil pump shaft clicks in place and use a new gasket when you reinstall. Also fill the filter with some oil. Be sure to torque the bolt to 35 ft lbs.
If you have disassembled the pump then put a new one in.
If the pump attatches to the front cover and you disassembled it install a new pump and check the cover for distortion. Unless you have a micrometer and depth gauge -- you cannot just look at the gears of an oil pump and assume that they are good. If have the capability to measure the oil pump clearances, I need to know the what size the engine is - and if it is an SHO - or not.
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Thursday, April 1st, 2010 AT 10:02 AM
Tiny
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I am not going to put a new pump in, since I believe that this pump is good, since in meets all the specs. If I put oil in the pump to prime, how will I keep it from running out during assembly. I believe that I'll use vaseline.
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Thursday, April 1st, 2010 AT 10:10 AM
Tiny
PEAR69
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Sorry, I see that it is a 3.8 liter engine. There are rebuild kits available for these pumps - they are around 25 bucks. Be sure the pump body seal is good. Packing with vaseline will work only if the seal and gear clearances are good -- and of course -- if the pump is good. Be sure to put some oil in the filter before reinstaling it.
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Thursday, April 1st, 2010 AT 10:51 AM

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