My check engine light came on?

Tiny
RANGERBLAKE
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 12,600 MILES
I have a 2000 4WD with about 126,000 miles. Recently, my check engine light came on. This is the first time ever and after making sure the gas cap was on tight and a couple other "by the manual" checks the light has not gone off. It has been over a week now, but there does not seem to be any difference in driveability and no noticed problems. The only possible clue comes recently when I stop at a light or something and the RPMs take an unusually long time (over 30 seconds) to fall from about 2,000 down to normal idle speeds of around 700. A repair shop ran tests and initially didn't find anything besides a couple "system lean" errors on their computer. They suggested cleaning the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or a vacuum leak somewhere. Are they guessing or is there a more plausible explanation?
Wednesday, January 7th, 2009 AT 1:05 PM

65 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,645 POSTS
Hi:
With an engine code, you really can't be 100% sure. The code can direct you in the right direction, but it doesn't give you an exact fix all of the time. What they are suggesting may infact be the problem, but they will need to try them first.

Lets get the codes use this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

As far as the possible vacuum leak, check for yourself. Open the hood and look for dry rotted vacuum line, broken ones, disconnected ones... Also, with the engine running, see if you can hear a hissing noise coming from anywhere. That will lead you to a leak.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe
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Wednesday, January 7th, 2009 AT 4:54 PM
Tiny
TOBYJM
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  • 10 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD RANGER
  • 4.0L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
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My check engine light stopped working and I cannot seem to find the bulb size of just that one bulb. Do I need to replace the whole cluster because one indicator bulb went bad? Please help
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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Good morning,

Did you verify power to the bulb? I would not assume the bulb is bad until you confirm voltage.

There is a fuse for the light. Verify power from the fuse to the cluster.

Roy
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOBYJM
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Okay treat me like a child when explaining this stuff please. I'm still learning. Where exactly is the fuse?
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOBYJM
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Okay treat me like a child when explaining this stuff please. I'm still learning. Where exactly is the fuse?
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-1
Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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It is in the fuse box under the left side of the dash.

You will need a test light for this procedure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-fuse-works

Roy
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOBYJM
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Which fuse is it? #11, 19 or both. I apologize for being ignorant. I really did try to figure this out myself.
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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It is fuse 11.

No worries. If you are not sure, see if you can get someone to help you that is familiar with testing.

Roy
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOBYJM
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Is #11 for all the indicator lights? Because some of the other ones work.
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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No, it is just for the check engine light.

Roy
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOBYJM
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So I checked the fuse and it isn't burnt out. What are my next options? Is it possible to replace just the check engine light bulb? I don't have anyone who can't check the voltage to the check engine light.
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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You need to verify voltage to the light before assuming it is the bulb.

I do not guess. I diagnose and work the problem. If you do not have a test light or voltmeter, see if you can borrow one.

As far as the bulb, they do not give you access to it for security reasons.

It could be the wiring, the cluster or the PCM. That's why we need to do testing.

Roy
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOBYJM
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Okay so I finally checked the fuse with a meter and on the continuity setting its reading fine. What is the next step?
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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Okay, the next step is to verify power into the cluster in the wire shown in the diagram I attached in the beginning. Verify voltage to the wire and the one coming out as well. The colors are marked on the diagrams.

Roy
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOBYJM
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How do I do that? From under the hood?
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WHEELCHAIRDUDE49
  • MEMBER
  • 73 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD RANGER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 58,000 MILES
Check engine light came on when it was 90 and humid
today
Did the same thing 3 years ago and replaced both oxygen sensors. Will the heat and humidity make the
CE light come on?
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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First of all thank you so much for your donation. The best thing to do is go to a auto parts store like auto zone and see what codes you have and let me know what the number's are. The heat and humidity in itself can maybe make problems show up that wouldn't show up other wise. We will know more once we know the code's.
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WHEELCHAIRDUDE49
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I will check the code tomorrow. Raining heavy this evening. I do have an OBD II
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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No, you need to remove the cluster to access the connector behind it.

Roy
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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Sounds good try to stay dry talk to you soon.
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Friday, November 27th, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)

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