1994 Ford Ranger battery drain

Tiny
FRED HARRIMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 250,000 MILES
I have replaced voltage regulator, battery, and alternaer There seems to be some sort of drain on the battery. I can jump start it or charge the battery, and the thing will run untill you shut it off and than it will not start.
Sunday, December 14th, 2008 AT 6:53 PM

4 Replies

Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
If the battery is new and the only way to get it started is with a jump start then you most likely have a connection issue or high resistance in the wiring.

We need to do what is called a voltage drop from the battery to the starter.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Basically this is measuring the voltage that the wiring is using and it should be very little.

So by adding the jump box to it, all you are doing is increasing the amperage so it can overcome any resistance in the circuit.

I suspect we are going to find wiring issues so let's review the wiring diagram below and go from there. Thanks
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Sunday, December 14th, 2008 AT 7:03 PM
Tiny
FRED HARRIMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I have cleaned the terminals. When I hooked the new battery up there was a small spark. I think there must be an open circuit or something like that. Is there anyway to trace that.
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Sunday, December 14th, 2008 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
BATTERY DRAIN TEST
NOTE: Amperage draw will vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on equipment package.
No production vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw.
BATTERY DRAIN TEST
1. Ensure junction box/fuse panels are accessible without turning on interior and hood lights. Drive vehicle over 30 MPH for at least 5 minutes. Park vehicle and allow to sit with ignition off for at least 40 minutes to allow electronic modules to power down.

2. Connect a fused jumper wire between negative battery cable and negative battery post. Disconnect negative battery cable from negative battery post, without breaking the jumper wire connection to prevent modules from resetting.

NOTE: It is very important that continuity is not broken between negative battery post and negative battery cable when disconnecting battery cable or connecting ammeter. If continuity is broken, go to step 1.
3. Ensure ammeter is set to read milliamps with at least a 10 amp capability. Connect ammeter between negative battery cable and negative battery post. Remove fused jumper wire.

4. If excessive current draw is present (50 mA or more), pull fuses from battery/central junction box one at a time and note any current drop when each fuse is removed. DO NOT reinstall fuses until test is complete.

5. Check wiring diagrams for any circuits that run from battery without passing through battery/central junction box. Disconnect these circuits if current draw still exists. Repair appropriate circuits as necessary.
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Sunday, December 14th, 2008 AT 9:28 PM
Tiny
52D
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Killing a battery within minutes of running? Check for a battery wire thats rubbed the frame, focus on pos cable. Is the car equiped with an amp? Start the truck and trun on lights, is the belt squealing? Is there a squeaking noise? I had an idler pully bearing seizing and about stopped the belt. Also seen alt seize and kill the motor.
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Saturday, December 18th, 2010 AT 3:09 AM

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