Battery saver relay location

My starter won't engage always when I turn the ignition. I changed the solenoid. Each time I undo the battery cables from the battery and the attachments to the solenoid, it will turn over when I reattach everything. After I changed the solenoid, it turned over about ten times in a row and thought it was fixed. Now it is just clicking again when I turn the ignition. Do you think it might be a worn battery cable or should I take off the starter and have it tested?

1998 ford ranger 2.5 L, 4 cyl 160,000 mi. I put a new battery in my truck in the dark and crossed the cables for about 2 sec. Now my ac compresser and the alltanater does not come on. NO power going to the wires. What could have burned up?

Thats what I figured couse it did not blow no fueses. I thank you for your imput.

The battery in my 94 ford ranger wont charge. The battery is new and the alternator tested good. Does the solenoid have anything to do with this? I checked all fuses and wire harnesses.

About ten volts. The battery is new and the battery guage drops as it runs. Battery was fully charged when I put it in and the alternator was bench tested.

Yes. The fuse is good.

I have the above truck I have changed the alternator which tests fine the battery is good and the wiring harness from the alternator is good no shorts and connections are good battery not charging what do I check or what is the possible problem

I returned back to my truck after having it parked for 2 weeks to find it wouldn't start. I wasn't terribly surprised since it had been so cold. I had no problems with it before parking it. We jumped it off and the voltage needle jumped up and down rapidly. Got it home and left it running with everything off for about 45 min then shut it off and it wouldn't refire. The next morning I put it on the charger. That afternoon it still wouldn't start. Jumped it off and took it to where I bought my battery and was told it was the alternator. Have had that load tested and is fine. When I try to start it I sometimes lose everything inside the truck for a while. Then I will get this clicking coming from the fuse panel inside the truck.

Check battery connections take them off and clean only the areas the that must connect for electricty if that doesnt fix it have you battery tested (advance auto) make sure to check all your wires around solenoid starter to make sure nothing is draining the battery

i think it is a combination of both a bad wire draining it and a bad battery check all your fuses under the hood and the the dash

Have a 2000 ford ranger trailhead p/up w/3.0 and 78000 miles. First started by bucking on/off while driving and then straighten out and drive smooth. Then it would be going down rd. And shut off, at this time I would switch ignition key back to off and then forward to on and it would run smooth as silk. This occured periodically until it died last time and wouldnt start back and bat. Was dead. Has new bat., Alt, (not rebuilt), and terminals. With engine jumped and running on alt. (Bat. Dead when jumped of course so has to be running smooth by alt. After jump) pull cable off either side of bat. Motor dies. This list is whats happened since this started. Horn out, when use rt. Turn sig. Speedo. Needle erratic. Doesnt do on left sig. Temp guage only one working. And sometimes, not every time, you jump it then rev motor w/pedal as smooth as silk and other times push acc. Pedal down and (nothing) but it will return to smooth idle everytime whether revs or not. Have 12.5 volts on bat. Not running.15 to 16 volts going thru bat. From alt. When running(however bat being jumped alt. Putting out more). Same volts out of charge line on alt. All volt meter cks. On and off ck. Out to specs on voltmeter. Im beginning to think ign. Switch since every grnd. I could find anywhere in ign. System ckd. Out. Where next?