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Check engine light on?

Tiny
DEEREY
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Hi Mark
Yeah I've done a check on that. I have one vaccuum line in question that runs back behind the throttle/choke area that seems to have some dry rot (it seems like the line has some type of "skin" to it that is peeling off and cracking when disturbed). I unplugged it and the vehicle's idle dropped significantly more when I did that, short of stalling completely. It appears to be like a "ready fit" vaccuum line for it twists and turns like has been made to do so. Any input on this would be gladly appreciated.
Doug
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TNGUYEN010
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2003 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 93,000 MILES
My truck failed inspection and the tech told me and showed me on the printout that the "Check Engine Soon" light is not illuminated when the key is turned on. He said I just have to replace the MLB bulb. I called the dealership and they told me it would cost $100 to scan it and it would cost a bit more to take the instrument cluster out and send it to an authorized repair shop to repair the bulb, because the whole thing is sealed to prevent tampering with the mileage. Is there any way I can replace the bulb myself? By taking off the dashboard. Thanks.
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
I hate to say it, but they are correct. The cluster is sealed and you will most likely break it taking it apart. It contains a printed circuit board and if it doesn't come apart and go together exactly right, you'll end up with other insturment panel problems. It needs to be repaired by an authorized repair shop.

I wish I had better news. Thanks for using 2carpros. Com.

Joe
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
If any rubber vacuum lines look at all suspect they should be replaced, inn most cases the rubber hose can easily be replaced, as long as there is no sharp bends or kinks in the line there will not be a problem, so if this hose looks suspect look at the end and see if its just a small section off rubber hose fitted over a steel pipe.

Mark
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TNGUYEN010
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
My friend scanned and gave me the codes P1151 and P1131. What should I do?
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DEEREY
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
UPDATE: I changed that vaccuum line out that looked bad but it didn't help. I took it to the dealership (the only place that would look at it today). They replaced a rather large vaccuum hose that went from the valve cover on to the very top back of the engine (the hose was rotted out on the back part - it was so far back in there I never saw it). Even though I shelled out nearly $200 for the repair (it's a dealership) at least it's back to running proper. Just the same thank you all for your help in this matter.
Doug
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
They deal with a lean fuel mixture. It could be a bad O2 sensor or there could be a vacuum leak
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+1
Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
OK thats good that you are back on the road, the problem is that there are so many vacuum hoses on modern engines, you do have to look all over as it could be any number of them causing you a problem,

Mark
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CLCNAILS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 105,000 MILES
My husband just bought this truck the service engine light was on the dealer told us it was fixed the next day the light came back on when we had it hooked up it said the #4 cylinder we took it back they said it was repaired again then two days later the light came back on. When we took it back this time the check engine light will not come on at all even when first turning on the ignition switch. The computer still reads #4 cylinder. They say it was just a coinsidence that the light burt out and they want to charge us $500.00 to repair it. It there any way to find out if they did something to the light and if so how do we prove it.(All the other lights work)
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PEAR69
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,482 POSTS
There should be a seal on the dashboard cluster where your check engine light is located. You must remove the dash cover to access. If you closely inspect the screws holding the dash cover on I will bet you can see that the dash cover was removed. A check engine light 99.9 percent of the time lasts the life of the truck. The reason for this is because it almost never comes on - and when it does come on the problem is usually solved and it goes out. The ones that fail are involved in a wreck or the vehical was flooded.
If your intention is to catch this dealer cheating I do suggest calling your local district attorneys' office for the proper course of action before you take the dash apart. It indeed sounds like to me that this dealer is breaking a federal law which prohibits tampering with diagnostic testing system of a car or truck without proper reason or cause.
I do think that this dealer did just that - they flicked the check engine light or surged the electrical wire that triggers the light so it would burn out.
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LGARCIA4
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 14,500 MILES
I have 2003 F-150 and I am having so many problems with my engine coils and spark plugs. For the past year I have had to replace different engine coils and spark plugs because something is causing then to get wet. We replace one and another goes out and its become a nusance and costly. No one seems to know what the problem is. Once we remove the spark plug we notice that its rusted and they haven't been in for very long. We've replaced them atleast 3 times this past year.
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi:
If this has the 5.4L and it is happening on the #7 and 8 cylenders, the rubber molding around the rear of the hood is causing the problem. Ford has had problems with those two.

Let me know if it is something different.

Joe
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LISA36
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Its actually a 4.2 engine and i've had to relace almost all of them.
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Hi, the injector on the cylinder that the coil goes bad on needs replacing, if the fuel mixture is lean it causing the coil to over work, making it fail. Please let me know, thanks for using 2carpros. Com
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PEPSIJOE1369
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 70,000 MILES
Check engine light on. Code says low voltage to tps
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVE H
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,384 POSTS
Is the vehicle running fine? If so. Turn off light. Test drive vehicle. If fault re-occurs please re-post. Sensors sometimes pick up slight volatage drops/spikes and register a fault. This could be the case.
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHN9459
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2003 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 600,000 MILES
My Check Engine Light came on, and I took it to repair shop I trust. They diagnosedit as left side oxygen sensors. They replaced them. And gasket. Light came on again, and they spent 3 days, and could never identify problem. Gave me my money back, and reluctantly gave up.

Needed inspection, so tried another place I have been happy with. Their diagnosis showed same problem. They did no repairs just got light to stay of long enough to do inspection.

Light still on, and I want to find out why. I am reluctant to go to dealer, because I forsee that being expensive. I would like a least a clue before I take this step.

Thanks,

John
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Is it the same code? Do you know the code number?
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHN9459
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I don't know if this is the same number, but I will try to find out tomorrow. Will get back to you as soon as I do.
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2020 AT 5:39 PM (Merged)

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