2001 Ford F-150

Later this evening I thought about checking that in the morning. Would I test that by taping the cat. Converter with a rubber malat or such? Would any of the other recent symptons I mentioned be a cause of the bad cat. Converter? I did also have an error code of catalyst eff. Below threshold in bank 2. I was going to change O2 sensors. When you said "or heat shield" meaning inside the cat. Converter? Or thinking now the shield over the cat. Converter? I apriciate you response aswell as further comments.

Jake and Nick,
Thank you again for your advice and suggestions on these matters. Before I spend money I dont have at he shop I am trying to diagnose and fix any problems that I can. I will gladly donate more to you for your continued advice.
Today I drove to the parts store and after my work to the vehicle yesterday it seemed to drive better other than the rattle noise. The Rpms still seemed low to me (around 500 in gear and 750ish in park and neutral). Shorttly into my drive at a stop the engine seemed to start surging or stumbling but without an rpm change. Then hesitation and not wanting to produce power during acceleration. At speed it seemed to have a slight shake. Seemed more like fuel surge maybe. I have installed a new fuel filter, used fuel system cleaner, and installed a new pcv valve. My errors prior to working on it were: Cyl. #7 misfire, system to lean bank 1 and 2 and catalyst eff. Below threshold bank 2 (4 total errors) after oil change, spark plug change and the previous mentioned repairs I cleared the codes and the did not return after numerous engin starts and run time. But later after the problems arising today the check engine light returned w/ only the cyl. 7 misfire detected. I am going to pull it and check it again, but dont understand what would cause it to start missfiring again. (My engine has an electronic ignition system. No plug wires or dristriputer, but individual coils over each plug.)
As you mostlikely know I am no mechanic but have some knowledge and experiance around engines (and a haynes manual). My knowledge is on earlier chevy engiens so a lot of the newer components are new to me. Your take on the symptoms and minor repairs I have done are greatly appriciated. Also advice on next checks and replacements before it goes to the shop or I take to long at getting the valves and timing chains.
As I mentioned I will donate more if you are able to continue giving your knowledge. I know its practicly impossable to diagnose with out physicly inspecting, but at this time I can not afford a mechanic (being new to Va I also have no conections.) And need to keep my truck runing to work.

Sorry for the long e-mail,
And thanks in advance,
Eric Rich

I am unable to check that tonight due to the amount of rain coming down, but I will deff. Check first thing in the morning. I mentioned that the cpv valve had to be replaced and that was from dry rot or major deteriation at both rubber elbows (of the intake and at the pcv valve) so that deff. Makes since.

I did however lissten more for the rattle noise. Using a wooden dowel I tried more places to narrow down the origin. The most distinctive sound that matched the adable sound seemed to come from a canaster connected to the radiator with metel hoses (it looked like a filter, but am unable to find any parts matching or pictures) it is located on the right side down near the wheel well.

While I wait to check the vacuum hose; what is your take on that.

I cant thank you enough!

Sorry dont want to keep the water We're in the same boat as far as wet. Northern Virginia and same thing our 2' a snow just melted.

Well I checked all the vacuum hoses and rubber connections connecting to the throttle body and intake manafold that i could find. I didnt find any cracks, could see thru them and blow air easily thru.
I got a picture of what i mentioned It sets level with the tensioner just below the right side valve cover.
It doesent seem like this could make that kinda noise, but like I said when I listened to different parts thru a dowel that gave me the most prevelent sound. Audibly you here it the most destinctive from under the front right.
I am going to try to stop today and pick up a vacuum and pressure gauge while were out (have to go see the future inlaws).
No luck with the pic. upload page. it says "Web site cannot display this page. Page maybe under construction." after I try to upload.

Opps just had to resize.

Yes actually it runs to between the radiator and grill. (For the life of me I cant think or the name) then under the engine block, but I loose it from there.
When I was first looking at it I thought maybe something to do with cooling the oil.
I am assuming that I need to check the voltage to all fuel systems and spark plugs and also check amount of vacuum?
I have voltage meters, but not knowing much of the elec. Systems of motors thats not one of the first things I check. The haynes guide can vaguely
walk me thru. How to check for proper ohms. If you can let me know which components to begin with; If that should even be my next step.
As far as the part in pic. That would have anything to do with the fuel pressure regulator or fuel charging would it?
Sorry to many questions. Just not able to do much with the rain. Yall still getting bad weather?
--thanks Joe (sorry I said Jake and Nick in an earlier post)
---Eric

I have tried to move the pulleys and gears with the belt off and all seemed fine, but I did just start it with the belt off (real quick) and it is still there. It did sound more prevelant that it was coming from the right side timing chain cover. Kind of as if it were loose on the gear.

Hey Joe,
had a bad coil over cyl 7 spark plug. Changing that has the engine idleing better and more stable. I still think the rpms should be higher, but that could just be me. The studder on acceleration is gone and she doesent seem to want to stall any more at a stop.
As far as the noise I am still at a loss. I think I was origanly wrong about it not getting faster with Rpms. With slowly raising the rpms while under the hood I can hear a increase in the speed of tapping. To me it still seems like a rattle, but others have said tapping, or lifters. I want your take on if I remove the valve cover. What to look for and if I should just start by changing the lash adjusters. I will also be able to see the top of the timming chain with just the cover off dont know if I will be able to check anything about the timming chain from that point.

I will let you know what I find once removing the valve cover. Will it cause any problems if I only remove the right side valve cover?
Do you know what Rpms I should be at on idle?
Its around 6 to 7 hundred in gear and 8 hudred in park and neutral. On start up in park its about 1100 then slows to around 800.