1985 Ford Explorer 1995 Ford Explorer WON'T START

It cranks over, but does not start and I do not have any interior lights, no power door lock, no power windows, no power seat and no fuel pump humming. I checked all the fuses in the distribution box and fuse panel, but no blown fuses. Could it possibly be a ground wire somewhere behind the passenger side kick panel or at least on that side of the dashboard - that is the area that was pulled away the most? I do not recall disconnecting anything under the dash on purpose, but I will have to retrace my steps. I did have to move the drivers seat all the way back, and I remember hearing something about doing this may cause some disconnects under the seat? Thanks for the reply.

O.K. I now have the dashboard disconnected again and dropped the steering column (with all electrical connectors still attached), moved the power distribution box in the engine compartment to check for frayed or broken wires - couldn't see any. I also reched ALL fuses in both locations and moved around the relays in the distribution block to see if maybe one of the others would work in fuel relay slot (there are 3 the same) - still no fuel pump humming. Rechecked and reset the inertia switch on the passengers side again. I still have no power for the doors, windows, seats, interior lights either. I am beginning to think it has something to do more with the relays and nothing to do with what I did when I replaced the heater core - I cannot find any wires loose/disconnected/broken/frayed. I am going to try to get at the relays in the rear by the tire jack and check those, and I think I will also try to replace at least one or two relays with new and see what happens. I have been trying to start it the whole time I have been disassembling things, and it still turns over but doesn't start. I also left the battery on charge all night - It turns over, so I don't think that is it, but it eliminates another possibility. If anybody has any other suggestions I am open to anything at this point. Thanks
Scott

I triple checked all the connections, and no go. I took the day off from it yesterday, and I purchased a new fuel pump relay - I think I will try that first thing this morning and then I will try to see where I have power with a test light and where I don't then I will get back to you. I really hate to put it all back together again before I get it started. I am also going to have afriend of mine bring over his code reader to see if we get any codes for the fuel system - maybe that will also help. I have been reading a lot of the posts related to "no start" and I have not seen any that have the same 2 problems at the same time - coincidence - I seem to think they are unrelated - the seats, windows etc. I can do without for now, but I really need to get it started. Thanks for the reply.

Scott

O.K.- After a week of disaaembly and reasembly twice and checking the whole circuit for the fuel pump and alll the window/door lock/seat controls, I found power at the relay, power to the inertia switch, but no power at the pump and still now windows/doors/interior lights, I retraced all my steps from the beginning. As I was wiggling wires under the dash, I saw the main dashboard connector on the drivers side and decided to wiggle that, as soon as I touched the screw on top that hold it together, I noticed it was very loose - I never even touched this when I was working on the truck, but as soon as I started to tighten it, all lights came on and now everything works! I had a feeling it was a connector, as the systems that didn't work are unrelated (so I thought), but as I said I checked everything I disconnected, but obviously the truck had been worked on previously and this connector was never tightened and all the wiggling on the passenger side when working on the heater core disconnected it enough to not work. Anyway - my wife is a happy camper to have her truck back and I am so relived to have found the problem - thanks for the help.

Scott

You know what would have really driven me crazy was if I paid someone to find that out. Especially if they had replaced the fuel pump and a few other pricey parts before the connection was discovered. This whole process only cost me 70 bucks (60 for the heater core and 10 for a new fuel pump relay) and a bottle of excedrin LOL - that not even an hour of diagnostic at a garage! I will definitely keep this as a "favorite" - thanks for the info.

Scott