engine will not start and run?

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

My Explorer is Stall on the road it is starting but after normal temperature or after 3 min. English is stop. Actually Engine sign Light is On from last 6 months and it was shaking on city on brake & stop i did all computer check, Gear Transmission check everything was OK only TP Censor error, I change that also but again the same error. then i did engine tune up, after tune up it was ok for one week and then again that error is coming the same thing. and now suddenly my engine is Stop on Road the car dealer service center is telling to change PCM Car Computer Does this will fix my Problem because computer is very expensive and had already change Fuel Pump, Filter, etc. Please help me.

it may be a pcm issue but he will need to install it anyhow. the pcm may need reprogramming as well.

Thanks for your reply, The same service dealer said it is PCM problem we order a new one now we are waiting for it, this will take 10 days to arrived in our city. I hope after that this problem will be solve.
Thanks again

Now my car is very good after replacing PCM Computer it cost around $1300 new PCM. but now after two i got another error and engine light is on our service diagnose the error and found that EGR Value need to replace. They told me it's not urgent you can change later after one or two months.

Can i wait for two months does this will not effect other parts also I am afraid that after replacing this it may come another error.

Thanks for your help

Regards

you can wait it won't hurt anything. you might try cleaning the passage way out sometimes that fixes it but you need a scanner to remove the code.

Thank you so much

Yesterday I was driving home on the interstate at about 65 mph when my car just died. I still had radio and wiper power as it was raining and the lights were working too. Initially I thought I might be low on gas and perhaps I was simply running out. However the light that indicates I am low on fuel was not on yet (and I know it works because it come on several times since owning the car). I got over to the side of the road quickly and tried to start it again and nothing, it would NOT start. Finally got some road side assistance and added gas just to be sure it wasn't just out of gas. Didn't help. Then when I try to start it again after adding the gas, it just makes a clicking sound. Due to the noise on the interstate, it was hard to determine where the clicking sound is coming from.

It still has power such as lights, power windows, radio, etc. I just don't know what the issue could be. It does have about 90,000 miles and they are all highway miles. I drive about 55 miles round trip 5 days a week and I am about 100 miles overdue for an oil change ( I know, I know). Any ideas what could have caused it to just die and now make this clicking sound?

I have had no prior indicators that I had low power, dimmed lights ( like the alternator) or anything wrong with the starter, it's never once acted like it wasn't going to start even in sub zero weather. I bought the car used from a local dealer just last October and its been a wonderful car so far until this....

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

When you first pulled over on the road and tried starting it, did it crank and crank but not start, or did it no crank and click?, basically I need to know if it was a crank no start or a no crank.

When I first pulled over, it did try to restart and quickly died again...there was no clicking noise at this point. It seemed like it just wasn't getting gas...thus the reason I thought to myself it might be out of gas. I tried this two more times and same thing. It was after I added more gas and then tried to restart it that I got the clicking noise. When you turn the key in the ignition to the first click, I hear the internal sound of the car coming to life- ding, ding, ding (indicating that the battery is working) and the lights and radio will come on, it's when I crank it once more to start the engine that I get the clicking sound.

I have a 2006 Ford Explorer. My wife drove it to her daughters house this morning, parked it, gets back in several hours later and it will not start.

One thing that I have noticed recently.....when you get in and start the vehicle, the headlights and dashboards lights flash on for just a second and then go right back out. I have never seen this and don't know if these incidents are related

Please help....thank you

It sounds like the fuel pump might be having a problem.

follow this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Roy

When I drive my car for twenty or thirty minutes then shut it off and it wont start back up. It turns over but that's it. I can let it set for a couple hours and it cranks back up with no problems.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

Based on your description, it sounds like a bad crankshaft position sensor. Take a look through these links:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

What you need to do is when it won't start, check to see if there is spark to the plugs. If there isn't, the aforementioned sensor is my first suspect. When they go bad, they become very sensitive to heat.

So, here is a link that shows how to check for ignition spark:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Here are a few links that will help you when testing for spark.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

If you find the sensor is bad, here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for replacement. The attached picture correlates with these directions.

CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR



See Picture 1



Removal and Installation
1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
2. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
3. Disconnect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor electrical connector.
4. Remove the bolt and the CKP sensor.
- To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

5. NOTE: Be sure the sensor wiring is routed away from the battery cable.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Thanks I will give it a try, I will let you know what happens.

You are very welcome. Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Changed fuel rail pressure sensor about a month ago (gave code for this). Car began acting up about two weeks ago. Would start and run fine. If I stopped somewhere when I can back out the car would start and stall. After about fifteen minutes I could get it to start and drive. It continued to get worse. The car then just shut off while driving and could not get it to restart. I smelt a burning smell and stopped trying to start it. Also the battery died from trying to start it. Had it towed home. A friend came a looked at the car. Apparently the starter got cooked so I fireplaces that. Replaced the fuel pump, crankshaft sensor, spark plugs. Car fires up and stalls. Won’t stay running. Changed the actuator and still starts and stalls. Someone please help.

Hi Gaffer2005,

Can you tell me which actuator you replaced? Are you referring to the IAC or idle air control? This is what this sounds like. I attached the description of this component.

If you replaced this, then we will need to get access to a scan tool. Hopefully, you have one that will look at live data. If not, there are some things we can check but it will make this more difficult.

Let's start with the IAC replacement or not question and then the scan tool. If you did the IAC and do NOT have a scan tool, I will send you a list of possible causes but unfortunately, they will not be as definitive. Let me know and we can go from there. Thanks

We actually changed the throttle body and throttle ignition coil.

No scan tool for live data.

Okay.

More than likely the IAC is your issue. This is responsible for controlling the RPM during idle. If it will not stay running then more than likely this is dirty and not allowing air through or faulty and just remaining closed. Either way, I would just go ahead and replace it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac

Please let me know the results. Thanks

Starts and runs fine when cold, if I shut it off and try to restart it after a short period of time if goes to about 1300 rpm them comes down to idle sputters and stalls. I have replaced the fuel pressure sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump, plugs, wires, coil pack removed and cleaned the throttle body. While I had the intake hose off I had a helper turn the switch on and the throttle body went closed then returned to the resting position, had them push the pedal to the floor and it opened all the way . tried to start it with the hose off to see and when it was sputtering if they pushed the pedal nothing happened.

What trouble codes were found? Here is a guide to help with scanning a computer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2IJGfImVvw

One other thought. Under the hood in the relay box is an EEC relay (electronic engine control). Switch it with a different relay with the same part number and let me know if it helps.

There are no codes and I have already changed the relay. Tried to check the fuel pressure but there is no port. I do notice when I am sitting idling and press the gas the speedometer goes up with the tachometer. Was thinking maybe the ECM ?

Very possible or even a ground issue or short to power. The problem is finding it. I wouldn't arbitrarily replace the ecm. It was the EEC relay and not the fuel pump relay that you replaced, correct?

I switched both still the same

Do you have access to a live data scanner? I would like to know what the coolant temp sensor is telling the computer. Also, pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator to see if there is any fuel being drawn in and make sure there is vacuum to it.

By the way. here is a how to for checking fuel pump pressure. Look at step 5. You will need to get an adapter.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Having an issue with my explorer. About 2 months he ago my truck would not start had the battery replaced because it would not hold a charge. truck was doing fine after that. Then it started idling rough when starting it and sometimes while at a red light. Then after working all day and it sitting in the parking lot at work it won't start, it seems to be turning over and trying to start but it won't. Any possibilities?

Is the check engine light staying on? Have you checked for spark and fuel?

My check engine light has been on for quite some time due to breaking a part while changing my spark plugs...approximately 2 years which was when I changed the spark plugs...I had never had it reset. It has about a half of a tank of fuel in it.

No, I mean is there fuel getting to the engine? Is there spark getting to the plugs?

As far as the light, there could be new codes stored that could identify where the problem is coming from. You should consider having it scanned again.

My Ford 2005 ford exlorer stopped running cranks but wont start,I brought a new battery. Long story short. Took to dealer he says I need a new Motor 3750.00 Is this the case or can it be something else.

its hard to say without doing some testing, if you are ganna get a new motor, try and get one from a salvage yard, might save you some extra money

Unless the engine was abused, run low on oil, overheated, or never serviced, I find it hard to believe it needs replaced at 110K. What is the problem they are telling you that requires it to be replaced?

I was driving and the low oil pressure light came on and the vehicle shut itself off. Items that I have changed are: oil & filter,oil pressure switch,coil pack, fuel pump. All it does is turn over and still wont start, it hasn't started since it died.

Are you getting spark and fuel to the engine? When the oil pressure was low, did you hear any knocking or ticking from the engine?

Let me know.

Joe

It didn't make any engine noise and was running fine, I have changed the oil every 3K. I'm not getting any fuel or spark but I was told by a ford technician that when the low oil pressure warning comes on, it shuts the fuel and spark off so the engine doesn't blow up. Now I can't get the light to turn off. I have checked the compression in each cylinder and it was fine. All relays and fuses are fine too. It must have something to do with the computer system, but what?