Oxygen Sensor Replacement and Locations Please?

Yes if the heater sorts to the sensing element they can cause the engine to stall here is a guide that can walk you throught he steps and the sensor location and instructions on how to replace net in the diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-oxygen-sensor

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

There is some conflicting info there. Your getting codes for both rich and leans condition so if you are correct about the code numbers, then you likely started with a severe rich condition that eventually clogged the O/2 sensors to the point they can only read lean.
At this point you probably have ruined the O/2 sensors due to driving it too long with a rich condition. Your going to have to start with new O/2 sensors and then look for the original problem. Clear the codes after the sensors are replaced and then see what codes reset after replacing the sensors. Then you'll get an accurate picture of what may be the root cause of the problem.

This is going to be a three hundred dollar expense unless you do it yourself. The sensors can be replaced is less than an hour.

The issue is the o2 is not bad. It is something else. What are all the codes? It sounds like it is missfiring which may be plugs and coils?

A full year? Never, never let the light be on without getting the code repaired as it will cause other issues like this down the road.

Roy

No, not hardly. You're just throwing good sensors away. The code number does not identify a failed part. T merely identifies a specific situation that needs further diagnosis to determine the actual cause. Post the exact code numbers.

The oxygen sensors if failing will cause your engine to run rough and give you horrible fuel mileage, and will cause the vehicle to miss.

Too low octane will cause a engine to miss also.

This takes a little effort but it can be done with a volt meter. Typically they measure this with the repair computers in the dealerships and such. For a single wire sensor trace the wire color back into the cars computer. The computer is usually under a seat, passenger side dash or under the console. To make sure you traced the right wire disconnect the o2 sensor and using the connector end (of the wiring harness NOT the o2 sensor)use your meter and "ohm out" the wire ie check connectivity. On the computer side the harness connector will hopefully be the typical molex connectors that you can press your probe into from the outside. (Do not disconnect from the computer it wont start!).

Now that you know which wire into the computer comes from the o2 sensor, reconnect the o2 sensor and warm up your car. You may consider leaving the voltmeter probe in the molex connector before starting if you are concerned about poking around after it is running. In the volts setting (0-2 or 0-5 volts) leave the positive lead in the connector and the negetive lead to ground (usually anything metal connected to the frame). When you first start your car your numbers will be low 0.1-0.3 volts as this is a rich mixture necessary until the car warms up. Once warm expect numbers in the mid to high range. Meaning 0.5 to 0.8 volts. If you bounce the throttle you will see a cyclic response from low to high 0.3 then 0.8 or so as the engine emits its exhaust. Consult your specific auto manual for acceptable ranges.

It is usually between 0 an 1 volt with 0 = rich and 1 equal to lean. Your auto manual should give you outputs for idle, and possibly under load (driving at a constant rpm)

If you have a multi wire sensor the same applies but you have to fish out the "signal" wire coming from the sensor. The other wires are typically for heating the sensor.

Hope this helps. I have done it myself on several cars but I don't know what they all look like and behave like so use this only as one data point.

Mark (mhpautos)

Hello.

For Continuous Memory Only DTCs P1130, P1150, & KOER & Continuous Memory Only DTCs P1131, P1132, P1152, P2195, P2196, P2197 & P2198, & For KOEO, KOER & Continuous Memory DTC P1151: Upstream HO2S Not Switching
DTCs P1131, P1151, P2195 and P2197 indicate air/fuel ratio is correcting rich for an overly lean condition. DTCs P1132, P1152, P2196 and P2198 indicate air/fuel ratio is correcting lean for an overly rich condition. DTCs P1130 and P1150 indicate when an HO2S fails to switch due to a circuit or fuel exceeding a calibrated limit. HO2S DTC identification is as follows:
DTCs P1130, P1131, P1132, P2195 & P2196 are for HO2S-11.
DTCs P1150, P1151, P1152 P2197 & P2198 are for HO2S-12.

Possible causes are:

Fuel System

Excessive fuel pressure, leaking or contaminated fuel injectors, leaking fuel pressure regulator, low fuel pressure or engine running out of fuel or vapory recovery system fault.

Induction System

Air leaks after MAF sensor, air intake system obstructions, vacuum leaks, PCV system or improperly seated engine oil dipstick.

EGR System

Leaking gasket, stuck EGR valve or leaking diaphragm or EVR.

Engine Mechanical

Engine oil overfilled, cam timing, cylinder compression or exhaust leaks before or near HO2S.
Inspect engine for obvious defects in specified systems. Repair as necessary

Hope this helps

Bank2 Sensor1 is at left exhaust pipe and Bank2 Sensor2 is at the rear of exhaust system.

Also try cleaning out the idle air control valve and see what happens

You have 4 O2 sensors

Possibly a clogged cat, the pre cat 02 sensor would read rich and the post cat would read lean in this case. And it would run like crap with poor exhaust flow. That's all I got so far.